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20 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

I think we should start a thread with all the known electrical connectors and part numbers as they can be tricky to find. I’ve been tracking down everything I can find and the one that stumped me was the power mirror switch connector. It, along with various other electrical parts were made in Japan and don’t use the standard Delphi/Aptiv/TE connectors. Fortunately I had a connection from working on Japanese watercraft that came through and found this most obscure of connectors. It is a Yazaki PA series with .120 pins. This is the 7 position connector that connects to the board connector for the mirror switch. 
 

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If you need to dig through a jeep with all the options for researching, head on over. My 1987 Waggy Limited has literally every option it could have had, cruise, PW, PM, PL, Auto, AWD, Fogs, etc...also have a sunroof jeep here too.

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18 minutes ago, Comanche SS said:



If you need to dig through a jeep with all the options for researching, head on over. My 1987 Waggy Limited has literally every option it could have had, cruise, PW, PM, PL, Auto, AWD, etc...also have a sunroof jeep here too.

Thats great to know! I'll have to get by there before I take off again. As you come across different connectors, would you mind taking a picture of them so we can ID them? 

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Just now, ghetdjc320 said:

Thats great to know! I'll have to get by there before is take off again. As you come across different connectors, would you mind taking a picture of them so we can ID them? 

 

Sure can, April it is planned to get the entire interior stripped out of it for that phase of restoration, would be a good time to. I am a fish out of water ID'ing them, but I can post them up in a Tech forum for the experts here.

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7 minutes ago, Comanche SS said:

 

Sure can, April it is planned to get the entire interior stripped out of it for that phase of restoration, would be a good time to. I am a fish out of water ID'ing them, but I can post them up in a Tech forum for the experts here.

Post them up in that thread I started if you don’t mind and we should be able to get them ID’d. 

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On 3/1/2024 at 9:04 AM, ghetdjc320 said:

I think we should start a thread with all the known electrical connectors and part numbers as they can be tricky to find. I’ve been tracking down everything I can find and the one that stumped me was the power mirror switch connector. It, along with various other electrical parts were made in Japan and don’t use the standard Delphi/Aptiv/TE connectors. Fortunately I had a connection from working on Japanese watercraft that came through and found this most obscure of connectors. It is a Yazaki PA series with .120 pins. This is the 7 position connector that connects to the board connector for the mirror switch. 
 

IMG_2760.jpeg

IMG_2763.jpeg


Just as a quick note: I harvested all the connectors from my stock 90 dash, chasis and engine harness. I have them all bagged and will take pictures of them all in detail at some point and add information regarding each one along with the source hopefully. 

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I have the same Speedo in my cluster! I am also running the metric oil pressure and temp gauge. I definitely prefer the degC temp sender but I have found bar to be somewhat more difficult to get used to. 

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1 hour ago, Torq_Shep said:

I have the same Speedo in my cluster! I am also running the metric oil pressure and temp gauge. I definitely prefer the degC temp sender but I have found bar to be somewhat more difficult to get used to. 

Interesting. I’m assuming the senders are the Sam it’s just the gauge faces that are different? Out of curiosity, why do you prefer the C reading I’m on the temp?

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3 minutes ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Interesting. I’m assuming the senders are the Sam it’s just the gauge faces that are different? Out of curiosity, why do you prefer the C reading I’m on the temp?

I worked in a lab for a very long time. I think of water in C just by habit. 

 

I think I had issues with the Fuel Tank Sender from the UK cluster but I am going off of memory. I switched back to the Comanche fuel gauge. 

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11 minutes ago, Torq_Shep said:

I worked in a lab for a very long time. I think of water in C just by habit. 

 

I think I had issues with the Fuel Tank Sender from the UK cluster but I am going off of memory. I switched back to the Comanche fuel gauge. 

Good to know. I might mix and match some items then. I have the 91+ MJ fuel sender installed with the 0-90ohm sweep and will reuse probably all the existing cluster and just swap the speedo. I had the police package speedo in my last MJ but didn’t like that the font on the bezel didn’t match the rest of the dash. Was getting close to having a Dakota digital HDX custom panel made as it has been really hard to find this uk spec gauge. 

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Interesting tidbit of info for those wanting to build the ultimate AX15. So Marlin Crawler has been building Toyota R series trannies for a long time and have a few worthwhile upgrades. They developed a first gear thrust washer that is significantly improved and a worthwhile upgrade along with an upgraded front bearing retainer which will also handle more torque. These two items supposedly increase the torque rating to somewhere in the 450ftlb range and they claim to be using their upgrades on 500hp rock racers without issue. They have other items such as billet shift forks with a better sleeve engagement design but that doesn't necessarily improve and actual torque handling.

The next fail point on some of these is the main shaft. Speedtek auto racing in Australia has made a 1000nm gearset (rated at approx 740 ftlbs of torque). I spoke to them and they can provide the whole gears from the main shaft through 5th gear and offer first gear in a 3.4 or 2.7 ratio with 5th being a .71 OD. These closer ratios would be awesome for a street Comanche. for a daily driver or weekend crawler, the 3.4 first would be ideal along with the slightly taller .71 5th gear. You can also choose your own custom input shaft spline count from the Jeep 10 spline to the GM 26 spline (nice for gen3/4 swaps). 

 

All in all, you can build the heck out and ax15 with the speedtek gears and the marlin thrust washer and bearing retainer setup. these upgrades will set you back a few grand but you'll have a near bulletproof transmission capable of handling loads of torque. If used for racing applications or fast shifting, maybe add the marlin shift forks. 

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4 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Interesting tidbit of info for those wanting to build the ultimate AX15. So Marlin Crawler has been building Toyota R series trannies for a long time and have a few worthwhile upgrades. They developed a first gear thrust washer that is significantly improved and a worthwhile upgrade along with an upgraded front bearing retainer which will also handle more torque. These two items supposedly increase the torque rating to somewhere in the 450ftlb range and they claim to be using their upgrades on 500hp rock racers without issue. They have other items such as billet shift forks with a better sleeve engagement design but that doesn't necessarily improve and actual torque handling.

The next fail point on some of these is the main shaft. Speedtek auto racing in Australia has made a 1000nm gearset (rated at approx 740 ftlbs of torque). I spoke to them and they can provide the whole gears from the main shaft through 5th gear and offer first gear in a 3.4 or 2.7 ratio with 5th being a .71 OD. These closer ratios would be awesome for a street Comanche. for a daily driver or weekend crawler, the 3.4 first would be ideal along with the slightly taller .71 5th gear. You can also choose your own custom input shaft spline count from the Jeep 10 spline to the GM 26 spline (nice for gen3/4 swaps). 

 

All in all, you can build the heck out and ax15 with the speedtek gears and the marlin thrust washer and bearing retainer setup. these upgrades will set you back a few grand but you'll have a near bulletproof transmission capable of handling loads of torque. If used for racing applications or fast shifting, maybe add the marlin shift forks. 

 

Don't forget about the updated synchros from the "new" AX-15, which is now called the ar-5... They are supposedly much better.

 

Food for thought, the ax-15 I currently have was alive and well behind my buddies LSA boosted 5.3 and it's still kicking. 

 

It is going behind a big cam 6.2 in my truck as it is (550-600 crank HP), until it needs more help lol

 

 

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2 hours ago, Comanche SS said:

 

Don't forget about the updated synchros from the "new" AX-15, which is now called the ar-5... They are supposedly much better.

 

Food for thought, the ax-15 I currently have was alive and well behind my buddies LSA boosted 5.3 and it's still kicking. 

 

It is going behind a big cam 6.2 in my truck as it is (550-600 crank HP), until it needs more help lol

 

 

That’s right! The speedtek gearset also has a fully splined 3-4 hub. The nv3550 which has seems to be on par with the ax15 strength wise is rated at 300 ft lbs but at a gross vehicle weight of 7200lbs. Axle gearing and torque curve will also play a big factor. 

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18 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

That’s right! The speedtek gearset also has a fully splined 3-4 hub. The nv3550 which has seems to be on par with the ax15 strength wise is rated at 300 ft lbs but at a gross vehicle weight of 7200lbs. Axle gearing and torque curve will also play a big factor. 

Is there anyone building the 6 speed NSG370 or are those not even worth a discussion? 

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3 minutes ago, Torq_Shep said:

Is there anyone building the 6 speed NSG370 or are those not even worth a discussion? 

From what I’ve read, they really aren’t worth it. They’re weaker for one and they have a deeper first gear, not a double overdrive. And the overdrive is shorter than the AX-15. I suppose having overall deeper gears would allow a person to have a more highway friendly rear gear. 

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