ghetdjc320 Posted June 12 Author Share Posted June 12 Time for some updates: new PSC box is in and it works perfectly. Old box was 100% to blame for the horrendous steering I was experiencing. Need to finish aligning the steering wheel, but that should be a quick fix. I’m thinking I may need to grab some general spring rear springs as my spring rate is just a bit too soft for my use. I frequently trailer or haul heavy loads and could really use a higher spring rate. My current leaf springs are a rebuilt oem pack with a BDS add a leaf. They flex excelenty and are about a 1” lift over stock. From experience, I know the general springs will provide a mild lift over stock even in their 4 leaf configuration. I’m thinking they should keep a nice ride height if I swap them for the current pack. I would be negligent to not mention what an awesome steering box the PSC big bore unit is. They provide taps and caps for running hydro assist if I ever go that route. Truly a quality product. I’ve given up on ever finding a decent rebuilt box. Redhead should have been a quality unit but unfortunately it failed the test. Best thing redhead could do now is accept a return but I doubt they will Some pics of the Tomahawk getting some much needed attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted June 14 Author Share Posted June 14 This is about 300lbs of tongue weight. With this load I have about 1.5” of travel left in the suspension. Definitely needs an upgrade to the rear springs. On another note, I’d love to add a second axle to this trailer as I’d like to eventually run a gear/storage box near the front of the trailer frame just before the tongue which will only add more tongue weight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted July 15 Author Share Posted July 15 Going on today. Will report back on results. Also been looking at possibly running an E force supercharger. Can’t help but noticing that I think I could clear my hood I know there are other options out there but very few seem like a good fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 I'm curious as to how this will work out, especially if it helps prevent axle wrap too. I need to do something with the rear of my truck because it doesn't take much to get it to squat and it wheel hops like nobody's business. I know my truck probably needs shocks, but if that doesn't cure it, I might have to look into something like this. It should help a lot with load capacity too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted July 16 Author Share Posted July 16 Install went fairly smoothly given that this was a custom setup. I’ve only driven it a few block so far but it feel “planted” it’s almost like a have a sway bar and some additional weight in the bed. Very impressed with ride quality so far. Will report back once I get some use and see how they work out. Here are some of my install pics: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted July 16 Author Share Posted July 16 After further driving, definitely feels solid and well planted. No harshness, no noise. Curious to see how it handles a load and will probably try within a week or so. I could actually see this being a neat setup for running 31’s on a very capable, stock rig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche SS Posted July 16 Share Posted July 16 17 hours ago, 89 MJ said: I'm curious as to how this will work out, especially if it helps prevent axle wrap too. I need to do something with the rear of my truck because it doesn't take much to get it to squat and it wheel hops like nobody's business. I know my truck probably needs shocks, but if that doesn't cure it, I might have to look into something like this. It should help a lot with load capacity too. Start with shocks…on my rig, no wheel hop at all with all stock leaf’s, and shackles, just nice shocks. Thats with 35’s and plenty of power to make it hop if it was going to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche SS Posted July 16 Share Posted July 16 17 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said: Going on today. Will report back on results. Also been looking at possibly running an E force supercharger. Can’t help but noticing that I think I could clear my hood I know there are other options out there but very few seem like a good fit. Definitely do a supercharger…and a cam lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted July 16 Share Posted July 16 4 minutes ago, Comanche SS said: Start with shocks…on my rig, no wheel hop at all with all stock leaf’s, and shackles, just nice shocks. Thats with 35’s and plenty of power to make it hop if it was going to. That's what I fully expect it to be. I have noticed that it has been feeling like it needs shocks, which is irritating because they're only 6 years old and Monroes, but that's new parts for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
npshay2 Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 Such an incredible amount of work! Happy to see midwest cancer being repaired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted August 14 Author Share Posted August 14 Having some audio ideas. First off, the sound quality in the cab is exceptional. But yes, I am a bass head . Anyways, the current system is completely hidden. 8” kicker sub under passenger seat and all components in factory locations. Kicker class A/B amp under drivers seat for the component speakers. It’s a clean overall system but lack the depth I’m after. Frequency response fall flat under 50ish hz and it’s just obvious the shallow 8” sub doesn’t have enough airspace to perform in that little under seat enclosure. I’ve thought about several behind the seat options but don’t like the idea of them covering the cab corner speakers which, when tuned, provide a nice mid range boost and even help staging. So a behind the seat sub is out of the question. That leaves a blow through style design. The existing roll top canister leaves about 10” of available space under it. It’s a bit of a dead zone that I can’t use for much else. My thoughts are a 4th order band pass system. (2) JL 8” W3’s in force canceling, back to back sealed band pass design. I would then use (2) 3” ports on each side tuned to 40hz. The vents would go straight into the cab with some nice trim out and would be behind the driver and passenger seats. The box itself would fill the empty space below the roll top canister and be finished in a waterproof coating and raptor lined. It would be serviceable from the bed. I’m thinking this would be a stealthy high performance system that should provide what I’m looking for. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 I'm not an audiophile. Would a bigger sub in that configuration have a benefit over 2 smaller ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted August 14 Author Share Posted August 14 17 minutes ago, watchamakalit said: I'm not an audiophile. Would a bigger sub in that configuration have a benefit over 2 smaller ones? I did look into that but the space I have under the canister is minimal. Larger subs can struggle in sound quality. I’d even consider multiple 6.5’s with the right specs and box design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Mistress Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Since you are already thinking about cutting hole in sheetmetal.... have you thought about cutting hole underneath passenger seat for a regular 7" mounting depth sub ? Build a metal box and weld it underneath. Probably only need extra 4 or 5" I did that years ago on my Ford single cab flareside. I did long throw 8" sub under drivers & passenger. Was totally satisfied with the thump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche SS Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 A box behind the center console wouldn’t work? Don’t have it reach all the way to the pillars, maybe only make it wide enough so that it halfway overlaps each seat? That would leave over a foot between the pillar speakers and the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted August 15 Author Share Posted August 15 8 hours ago, Red Mistress said: Since you are already thinking about cutting hole in sheetmetal.... have you thought about cutting hole underneath passenger seat for a regular 7" mounting depth sub ? Build a metal box and weld it underneath. Probably only need extra 4 or 5" I did that years ago on my Ford single cab flareside. I did long throw 8" sub under drivers & passenger. Was totally satisfied with the thump. I’m running dual exhaust and the dual cats are under the passenger seat. Not a bad idea though. I was planning on just drilling out 4 3” holes with a hole saw so cutting would be pretty minimal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted August 15 Author Share Posted August 15 7 hours ago, Comanche SS said: A box behind the center console wouldn’t work? Don’t have it reach all the way to the pillars, maybe only make it wide enough so that it halfway overlaps each seat? That would leave over a foot between the pillar speakers and the box. I’d probably have to run a thin sub if I did and it would take out some precious behind the seat cargo space. I’d like to keep that area open and keep the system 100% stealth mode Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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