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Posted

care to cite precedent?  I've not heard of any issues, but I've not read everything on the internet yet.  (although this knee problem is certainly giving me more to to try and catch up :( )

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Posted

ok I just plain don't want to run spacers end of story. the ones "currently" on my truck allowing me to run jt rims. the nuts barely have enough bite on the studs so I don't really trust them. I have been working on it got the spindles and the calipers on and figured out how all the locking hubs work. when tightening down the front wheels however on the drivers the knuckle is scraping and the passengers it has like a papers worth of clearance. And I would flap disk the interfering metal off but I test fitted my hiem joints for my steering kit and they definitely are not going to fit I will even have to clearance them slightly with 17s. So I am gonna purchase some plain black steelies, D holes likely, I just like the look personally. likely used.

 

I got the wheels bolted up and let the truck down and put some 2 by 4s under the rims to not further damage them and the truck definitely  isnt sitting level got a little carolina squat goin on. not by much maybe an inch by most. the measurements changed both 18 1/2 to bottom of axle tube. I don't know what I should do

Posted

also does anyone know other than here like on facebook where to post all me wheels and spacers that I am trying to get rid of?

Posted
34 minutes ago, Jesse J said:

the nuts barely have enough bite on the studs so I don't really trust them

That is one real issue. @Pete M it’s true that it’s similar to rim backspacing but a 2 piece adapter relies on 3 sets of fasteners per wheel. It’s a lot of bolts upon bolts upon bolts all grabbing into bits of aluminum. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Jesse J said:

ok I just plain don't want to run spacers end of story. the ones "currently" on my truck allowing me to run jt rims. the nuts barely have enough bite on the studs so I don't really trust them. I have been working on it got the spindles and the calipers on and figured out how all the locking hubs work. when tightening down the front wheels however on the drivers the knuckle is scraping and the passengers it has like a papers worth of clearance. And I would flap disk the interfering metal off but I test fitted my hiem joints for my steering kit and they definitely are not going to fit I will even have to clearance them slightly with 17s. So I am gonna purchase some plain black steelies, D holes likely, I just like the look personally. likely used.

 

I got the wheels bolted up and let the truck down and put some 2 by 4s under the rims to not further damage them and the truck definitely  isnt sitting level got a little carolina squat goin on. not by much maybe an inch by most. the measurements changed both 18 1/2 to bottom of axle tube. I don't know what I should do

Post pics of what it looks like. The rake is hard to measure unless you use the factory measuring points

Posted

wait until the front has settled.  then adjust as needed.  :L:  once you've got some miles under your belt, you'll be able to make a more informed decision about whether an extra leaf or a longer shackle would work best for your rig and your needs. 

Posted

ok so measure for shocks now and just drive as is? I would really like for my truck not to be squatted just daily driving 

Posted

pegging down the last inch of ride height won't really affect shock length out back.  :L:  

 

do be sure that you're adding longer bumpstops (or metal extensions) to the list.  :L:  

Posted

been working on steering all morning decided I'm gonna buy a drop pitman buy once cry once.

Can I measure for shocks and driveshaft without having the tires on?  Also get the rear burned in as well?

19 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

From the pic, that’s a nice stance. I don’t see any squat. Those RE coils will definitely settle also

The picture does look like it doesnt have any sqaut. I will take a new well lit picture when the time is right

Posted

are you also buying a track bar that has a drop bracket?  you can't do one without the other or else the alignment between the 2 bars will be off and give you bump steer.

 

looking strictly at the steering, a drop pitman is not necessary with your lift.

 

Posted

I am running a trac bar with a drop bracket. I also test fitted my steering and It was binding up and looking at it I was like yeah I need a drop pitman

Posted
4 hours ago, Jesse J said:

for reference my pitman hiem was basically bottomed out at ride height

You running heim steering? Post a pic of you setup when you can. I run ZJ steering o 5.5” of lift with no drop pitman and zero bind. 

Posted

Those springs will settle a lot from where they are now. Between that and a 1” pitman drop you should be good. As Pete mentioned, make sure the track bar and drag link are approximately the same length and same angle. That is crucial to good handling. A 1” pitman drop and 1” track bar drop should be good with that TNT truss. What drop bracket are you using for the track bar? The track bar sees a lot of load and needs to be super solid. A cross brace for the track bar is very helpful. Do you have a winch, bumper or anything else getting mounted up front? 
Also, add a couple of plug welds to those threaded inserts for the heims. Especially helpful with the tubing you’re using which has a welded seam. Looking good so far! 
 

Posted

Ok. Didn’t know that about the pitman angle 

Just using the core 4x4 drop bracket they sent me

no winch yet

 

Can I get the rear burned in today?

 

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