Pete M Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 day late, dollar short, but my 88 runs spools front and rear. it is NOT advised. straight line traction is insane. everything else sucks. and I mean everything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 On 4/7/2021 at 6:44 PM, zomeizter said: Right on comrades, gonna grab some from rockauto, is the CV style ones not recommended or do they not fit? Because no one else answered, I’ve got the ZJ CV axles in my ‘91. They’ve been in there a half-dozen years. Fit is just fine although you might want to knock the ABS tone wheels off. In regards to the later shafts with bigger ujoints, I saw a comment on the facepage not long ago about the ujoints themselves being beefier but less material in the yoke to accommodate the bigger caps means it’s easier to damage the yokes if they fail. This was actually the same justification that I used for going to CVs. I’ve had to replace more axle shafts than I have axle ujoints. It’s one thing if you catch a worn out joint with slop in the needle bearings, but the ujoints I’ve seen actually fail have cracked and blown apart, usually when a spinning wheel suddenly grabs traction, and the shaft yokes coming together usually just shred themselves when that happens. CVs are generally stronger, especially when operating at high angles (full steering lock), and are more comfortable because of smoother power delivery. The major disadvantage is the vulnerability of the rubber boot, especially if where you drive brings them into contact with things; sticks, mud, snow and ice, etc. A secondary disadvantage is they’re less serviceable once they wear out, but the more I get into things the less I care about serviceability and the more I care about performance. The CV shafts are also cheaper to replace when the whole shaft fails, unless you’ve got good access to used parts. For a daily driver or something that mostly sees road use, I would say the CV is the way to go. Off-road I still lean towards CVs, but now you’ve got more specific usage-case arguments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zomeizter Posted April 10, 2021 Author Share Posted April 10, 2021 7 hours ago, gogmorgo said: Because no one else answered, I’ve got the ZJ CV axles in my ‘91. They’ve been in there a half-dozen years. Fit is just fine although you might want to knock the ABS tone wheels off. In regards to the later shafts with bigger ujoints, I saw a comment on the facepage not long ago about the ujoints themselves being beefier but less material in the yoke to accommodate the bigger caps means it’s easier to damage the yokes if they fail. This was actually the same justification that I used for going to CVs. I’ve had to replace more axle shafts than I have axle ujoints. It’s one thing if you catch a worn out joint with slop in the needle bearings, but the ujoints I’ve seen actually fail have cracked and blown apart, usually when a spinning wheel suddenly grabs traction, and the shaft yokes coming together usually just shred themselves when that happens. CVs are generally stronger, especially when operating at high angles (full steering lock), and are more comfortable because of smoother power delivery. The major disadvantage is the vulnerability of the rubber boot, especially if where you drive brings them into contact with things; sticks, mud, snow and ice, etc. A secondary disadvantage is they’re less serviceable once they wear out, but the more I get into things the less I care about serviceability and the more I care about performance. The CV shafts are also cheaper to replace when the whole shaft fails, unless you’ve got good access to used parts. For a daily driver or something that mostly sees road use, I would say the CV is the way to go. Off-road I still lean towards CVs, but now you’ve got more specific usage-case arguments. Thanks for the info on the CV shafts gog, I remember when I had a ZJ equipped with these, I gave that thing hell for years and never had to repair or replace them. Like I mentioned earlier, I've already ordered some moly shafts, not sure if they're the big joint ones or not but supposedly are guaranteed for life, so some peace of mind there I reckon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zomeizter Posted April 10, 2021 Author Share Posted April 10, 2021 22 hours ago, Pete M said: day late, dollar short, but my 88 runs spools front and rear. it is NOT advised. straight line traction is insane. everything else sucks. and I mean everything else. Haha! I hear ya man, I have buddies who own trucks with spools (or Lincoln lockers) and daily drive them, and replace tires often without any complaints at all...F that! I am installing lunch box lockers in the 'manche, but it's purpose will be for fun off road use, and for pulling my heavy azz mower out of the mud hole that I always forget about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coyote Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 I ran a '91 XJ with 5" of lift, 31s and front and rear LockRights for about 10 years. That thing was a beast off road. The traction was incredible and the auto made it real smooth to control. I could do stuff guys with bigger tires and better axles couldn't do. Probably because I could just leasurly cruze through things other people had to hit full throttle. As great as they were off road, the LockRights were miserable on the street. I didn't mind the clicking and banging, but the torque steer was horrible. Accelerate and it pulled one way, decelerate and it goes the other. It was real easy to do accidental lane changes if you weren't paying attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zomeizter Posted April 27, 2021 Author Share Posted April 27, 2021 Spent the weekend upgrading the D30 innards, deleted the CAD and replaced the worn ball joints... Gear lube was milky, I reckon some water got in there who knows when. Ball joints off, cleaned the axle tubes and installed tube seals. Home made lower ball joint insert spanner socket, worked like a charm. Cleaned the housing and gears and installed the carrier with the lunch box locker. Installed shafts, ball joints and hubs. As you can see in the pic, the rotor shields were backwards, doh! Covered up and filled with 75w140 Lucas synthetic lube. CAD components removed, I got the 4x4 indicator light working with an XJ TC switch, had to shim it to get it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 nice. i swear i do that every time with the backing plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zomeizter Posted April 27, 2021 Author Share Posted April 27, 2021 13 hours ago, MiNi Beast said: nice. i swear i do that every time with the backing plates. Ha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zomeizter Posted April 27, 2021 Author Share Posted April 27, 2021 Took it on a 50 mile test drive, on road behavior is unchanged up to 70 mph. I really dig the ratchetting on turns and the looks I get from motorists around LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 I'd like to chime in for a slightly related question if that's ok. I just installed new axles, D30 and 8.8. Both have a locker in them, not sure which they came that way. I have not had 4wd in this truck or ever had lockers. I don't hear the tick sounding from either axle. When I turn sharp every once in a while it'll make a semi loud clunk. Is that the locker? I hope so cause I'm worried what could be causing this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derf Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 It depends on the locker. A picture of the differential with the cover off would help identify which locker it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 4 minutes ago, derf said: It depends on the locker. A picture of the differential with the cover off would help identify which locker it is. I have to replace the axle seals soon so I will get a photo then and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zomeizter Posted April 29, 2021 Author Share Posted April 29, 2021 It could very well be the locker, mine does exactly that semi loud clunk sometimes when turning sharp left or right... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
914.6stroker Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 I broke an aussie locker now I'm going to save up for a detroit locker. currently running a LSD rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 On 4/27/2021 at 4:13 PM, derf said: It depends on the locker. A picture of the differential with the cover off would help identify which locker it is. Finally got around to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derf Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 8 hours ago, rylee144 said: Finally got around to it. I can't tell what brand it is but that's a "lunchbox" locker. It's a spring loaded automatic locker. It will clunk as you go around corners. That is normal. Different brands sound different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 Great to know. First time scared the crap out of me! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zomeizter Posted May 16, 2021 Author Share Posted May 16, 2021 Dudes, I managed to get the Spartan locker in the 8.8, was kind of a pain in the butt but it's in. I thought I was gonna have to cut the spider gear cross shaft since the screw pin broke upon removal. My patience was tested removing the broken piece holding the cross shaft to the carrier, I used a 90 degree pick to turn the bastard until it came out. I also learned that you have to install the locker halves and the axle shafts in a certain order so that one can manage to get the C-clips on the axle shafts. Time to hit the woods! Coat of black paint on the cover and filled with 75w140 synthetic gear oil to give it hell... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 give it hell! also make sure you have a way out after you get stuck pushing the new limits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zomeizter Posted May 17, 2021 Author Share Posted May 17, 2021 20 hours ago, Pete M said: give it hell! also make sure you have a way out after you get stuck pushing the new limits. Ha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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