Axle/Gearing/Braking recommendations

[Wargresh]

Brand new to all of this and looking for assistance.  I'm looking to make my Comanche into more of a daily driver as my son wants it in a couple years.  We bought if off my father-in-law and I have no real mechanical knowledge or anything like that, but am willing to learn for the bonding experience with my kid and to hopefully pass on some knowledge to him.  

 

Here is my Comanche as it stands 

 I would like to keep it lifted with the bigger tires as that is what appeals to him currently, but braking is terrible currently.  I was trying to do some reading and found suggestions about different axle's, gearing ratios, and big brake kits.  Unfortunately all that information was a bit over my head at least for now.  In terms of axle's, gearing, and braking for turning this into more of a daily driver what should I be looking to get. 

 

The tires on it right now are 33x12.50R15LT if that helps at all.

The lift kit on it is https://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-xj-cherokee-4-5-spring-pack-kit.html 

 

Any advice/guidance/direction is greatly appreciated.  Please let me know if I need to provide more information also.

[Pete M]

I would do 4.10s or 4.56 gears and the dual booster swap.  it'll make a world of difference with the go and the whoa.    should be a writeup or 2 on the booster swap in the link in my sig.  

 

just don't spend any money to regear a dana 35.  seek out an axle that is worthy of investment. 

[ghetdjc320]

Regarding brakes, the dual diaphragm swap is a good one as Pete mentioned. If your interested, there is a thread in this section regarding where to start first with the brakes that may be helpful to you. Although most will say to waste no money on the Dana 35 rear axle that is likely in your Jeep, I have been running one for several years now with 4.56 gears, upgraded axle shafts, a small truss (to stiffen the axle housing and tubes) on 33’s. Works very well for me and I have a lot more clearance under the axle  than any other rig on 33’s. I wouldn’t recommend going any bigger though. Tire width also plays a factor in how long these axles last. 

[Wargresh]

Thank you both so much for the information.  Pete, if you are saying the Dana 35 isn't worth re-gearing what would be your recommendation on an rear axle?  Also, when we are talking about re-gearing (me being completely new to this) is this something physical I can do or is it something I have to purchase to complete?  If it is a purchase is there a recommended brand to go with?  I appreciate all you guys are saying I just have zero knowledge when it comes to cars/vehicles in general.  I can change oil and a tire and that's about the extent.

[The86manche]

As far as rear axle swaps go a lot of people like to swap in ford 8.8 rear axles. Sturdy, a multitude of gear ratios, and tons of them so cheap.

However, spring perches would have to be welded.

If youre a patient person comanches came equipped with a dana 44 and in 86 a dana 20 axle both are very stout and would bolt right in. Drawback is relarively rare and expensive. 

Theres someone on here selling an mj 44 axle actually. I bought one off of him and hes got one left.

As for regearing youre better off buying a whole kit assentially. So you get new bearings and such.

Ive never regeared an axle myself but from what ive seen its a bit of a process because it has to be done right. Shims and proper gear mesh.

[Pete M]

for me, I would track down a 4.10 geared 03+ Liberty 8.25 (came with teh 4banger engine) and combine that with a 4.10 front axle from a late 90s Cherokee (also 4banger).  the Explorer axle is another strong choice but is a bit narrower.  car-part.com can help you find them.  regearing an axle is something that is more on the professional side of repairs and can cost a pretty penny. 

[Wargresh]

Thanks for all the detailed info guys, this really helps.  I'll have to see what I can find in terms of axle's and doing the dual booster swap.  I'll then have to look around the area (Pittsburgh, PA) for someone to do the re-gearing and start pricing it out.  I do have one further question about my Comanche in its current state, what is the value of it?  It runs fine other than it'll overheat on the highway and the fan doesn't work on its own.  My father in law rigged up a manual fan control to run the fans for now.  Not looking to sell, just trying to get an idea of value on it.

[Dzimm]

Value is totally depending on location and what is available in your area.  In the rust belt, they fetch a higher price especially if they are rust free.  Check the local craigslist/facebook market place for an idea of starting price.

 

As far as axles, as Pete mentioned the Libby C8.25 is a very good axle as it adds tons of strength and disk brakes.  If you go with this axle, make sure it's the one with a u-joint pinion instead of the flange.  Whatever axle you go with you will need to make sure you get new perches welded on in the correct location and the correct pinion angle.  With the disks brakes in the rear, you will want to get a WJ disk brake proportioning valve to replace your stock one.  And as mentioned the dual diaphragm brake booster is a must as well.  Everything is pretty much bolt-in swaps aside from the axle.  

 

Also keep in mind that with an axle swap you will need to have your driveshaft modified or have a new one built to the proper length.  These are typically measured from center of u-joint to center of u-joint.  The Libby C8.25 requires a driveshaft shortened by 1"-1.25" 

 

No matter what, don't drive the truck unless both the front and rear gear ratios match or without the front driveshaft installed.  If they are both connected with different gear ratios, you will destroy stuff.

 

Research this stuff to death and you should be able to get the knowledge to do it yourself.  If you need help don't be afraid to ask and make sure you find a good welder to do the axle perches if you can't do then yourself.

[ghetdjc320]

And don’t discount regearing your existing axle. The Ford 8.8 is a boat anchor for 33’s. The 8.25 liberty is a very nice choice. However, since you have to reheat your front axle to match, you can often get a decent deal to do both at the same time. What engine and transmission do you have? That will make a big difference as to what gears to go with. I have a built 4.0 with the auto tranny and run 4.56 gears. I could have easily gone with 4.88 gears also and been fine. The point is, you won’t find many stock axles in those ratios so a regear may be in order for whatever you decide to get. If money isn’t an object then have Currie enterprises or east coast gear supply build you a pair of axles. If you want to be more frugal then perhaps settle for 31” tire and about a 2-3” or so lift. That along with a good set of flares will let you keep stock axles (still don’t get too wild with them), and mostly stock suspension/steering. Will be a nice daily driver rig with decent off-road potential. If you do regear a dana 35 just keep in mind it’s limitations. They typically brake an axle shaft first so upgrading to 27 spline axle shafts that are built from a stronger and more forgiving materialI will give your axle more life. A truss (I run a model from TNT) will strengthen your axle tubes a stiffen the axle overall. If you have a pre-1990 dana 35 then they have bolt-in axles and are decent little axles but not nearly as strong as the Chrysler 8.25, Ford 8.8, Dana 44 or AMC 20. Even those axles have some models that are not very desirable. I guess you could say it all boils down to tire size and budget as this really determines everything. 

[Pete M]

the Liberty's driveshaft will have a ujoint adapter at the end of it.  

[omega_rugal]

for a daily driver you don't need to regear or change your axle, unles you do stuff like heavy loading, hauling, offroading, really huge tires...

 

i would take care of that overheating issue first, since you say you have little experience when it comes to mechanics this i would recommend, and don't worry you will learn

 

- flush the system, unplug and clean all hoses, use pressurized water to psuh out ALL the rust inside the block until water comes clean, replace hoses if worn

- if you still have the closed cooling system make sure you brup all air out, air in the system is bad, also make sure there are no leaks, if the system can not build pressure, it will overheat...

 

those 2 points are not difficult to do and may fix the problem

[Smokeyyank]

Based on what you're saying, just get it running and driving well. Do a few of the easy mods, dual diaphragm booster, headlight relay, convert the cooling system to an open one, checkout cruiser54s tips. I wouldnt touch axles right now. If you want to swap axles and such find some 96-99 xj axles with 3.73s swap them in run some 31s-33s. Modified and relaible daily rarely work out.  I get your kid wants it lifted with big tires but doesnt do any one good if it doesnt drive or drives like crap. 

[ghetdjc320]

51 minutes ago, Smokeyyank said:

Based on what you're saying, just get it running and driving well. Do a few of the easy mods, dual diaphragm booster, headlight relay, convert the cooling system to an open one, checkout cruiser54s tips. I wouldnt touch axles right now. If you want to swap axles and such find some 96-99 xj axles with 3.73s swap them in run some 31s-33s. Modified and relaible daily rarely work out.  I get your kid wants it lifted with big tires but doesnt do any one good if it doesnt drive or drives like crap. 

And,,, don’t swap you brake booster until you go through the list to check your brake system first. Just my $.02