ghetdjc320 Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Who makes the hands down best radiator out there? I’ve tried the stock replacements, csf, dual and triple core aluminums. I am sick of a radiator and cooling fans that can’t keep up with anything. These ff dynamics triple 10 fans are definitely not up to the task either. And I have the shrouds and 60 amps direct from a yellow top battery with a singer 240a alternator. I’m ready to invest into the last radiator/fan setup I will ever have to buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derf Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 It is hard to beat the air flow from a good mechanical fan with a good clutch and intact shroud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 Considering the Novak radiator. (2) 1.5” cores and it’s a full length core with no trans cooler (I run a separate moroso setup). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 umm. do you have specific reasoning? tried other means to aide with a good radiator setup? how do you mix you coolant? are you serious about your cooling needs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 59 minutes ago, MiNi Beast said: umm. do you have specific reasoning? tried other means to aide with a good radiator setup? how do you mix you coolant? are you serious about your cooling needs? I don’t there there is any cooling configuration, system or trick I haven’t tried up till now. It’s pretty clear currently that the radiator/fan setup just can’t keep up. Never had much issue with the heat at all in Texas but this tropical heat here is really hard to work with. It’s like the whole Jeep just heat soaks even when it’s parked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Quite frankly, I have never had a problem with the OEM type setup used in the later MJ/XJ's. The engineers designed the system to work at temperatures up to probably 120-130* with the vehicle stationary and the AC on. There are a few caveats to achieving that performance though: everything in the system MUST be performing LIKE NEW. That means: --clean coolant with 50/50 mix, --a radiator that isn't all corroded internally --a pressure cap for open systems set for EIGHTEEN pounds --and a mech. clutch fan that locks up properly I will say one thing, and that is I am not a big fan of the plastic end cap OEM-style radiators, and I replace those with all metal ones. Otherwise, I run the OEM setup. Here in PHX, my MJ gets toasty hot under the hood when it's 110* out. In fact, it gets so hot that I cannot touch the front part of the hood when I open it for more than 1-2 seconds without gloves. It's fun to watch me pop the secondary latch, and then shuffle my hands over to the side of the hood to get away from the heat from the radiator and avoid burning my hands. In spite of this, I have scanned the thermostat housing with an infrared meter, and never seen the temperature climb above 215* at that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derf Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 22 minutes ago, ghetdjc320 said: I don’t there there is any cooling configuration, system or trick I haven’t tried up till now. It’s pretty clear currently that the radiator/fan setup just can’t keep up. Never had much issue with the heat at all in Texas but this tropical heat here is really hard to work with. It’s like the whole Jeep just heat soaks even when it’s parked One thing that can be overlooked is the block itself. Have you done anything to clean out the corrosion that's built up over the years? Load up your cooling system with Evapo Rust and let it sit for 24 hours. Then flush it really well and refill with 50/50 mix. You'll be surprised at what comes out and how much better it cools afterwords. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derf Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Another thing to consider is your air/fuel mix. Throw on a wideband O2 sensor and see how lean you're running. Running too lean will make your engine run hot. If your fuel system is partially clogged you may not be getting enough fuel and you're running too lean. Run lean enough and no cooling system can keep up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torq_Shep Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 I ran a CSF 3-core all metal for years on my old jeep. Always ran super cold in Florida. Went cheap on this one and am running OEM open and have a hot-start overheating problem if I go above 2500 RPM in the first 15 minutes of driving. Pretty sure its cavitation somewhere in the system. I second the block cleaning method but I would recommend bypassing anything plastic or rubber when doing that. I use a similar method on dynos at work and while it works wonders it never fails to degrade a rubber line somewhere... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 I’m guessing most of you haven’t seen my build thread. Suffice it to say, no expense was spared on the engine build. Its got about 15k on the clock since the build. I’ll set my temp sensors on the radiator inlet and outlet and see exactly how it’s working. It for sure the radiator though. I’ve had oem, csf and now am running a 2 row all aluminum unit. Flowkooler water pump, genuine Mopar thermostat, Edelbrock head which does heat up the coolant a bit more. The engine is bored, high compression, camed ect. 24lb injectors and fuel pressure is spot on. Air temp sensor relocated to air box to richen things up also. I’ve been toying with the idea of a stand alone efi setup though. Richening it up a bit would cool it down for sure but it’s not running lean now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torq_Shep Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Have you considered a pot on the IAT to try and go even a bit richer? That and an innovate wide band just to verify. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Have you looked in to a water wetter or going to a waterless coolant, i.e. Evans? Not sure if it will help, I'm no expert, just throwing out ideas. I used Red Line water wetter in my truck before I converted to open and it definitely seemed to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derf Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 3 minutes ago, ghetdjc320 said: I’m guessing most of you haven’t seen my build thread. Suffice it to say, no expense was spared on the engine build. Its got about 15k on the clock since the build. I’ll set my temp sensors on the radiator inlet and outlet and see exactly how it’s working. It for sure the radiator though. I’ve had oem, csf and now am running a 2 row all aluminum unit. Flowkooler water pump, genuine Mopar thermostat, Edelbrock head which does heat up the coolant a bit more. The engine is bored, high compression, camed ect. 24lb injectors and fuel pressure is spot on. Air temp sensor relocated to air box to richen things up also. I’ve been toying with the idea of a stand alone efi setup though. Richening it up a bit would cool it down for sure but it’s not running lean now. Yeah, I didn't think about your build thread. I've slept since the last time I read it. However, an engine built up like that is going to generate a lot more heat than stock. More power = more heat no matter what you do. There's two ways to improve cooling on an engine when everything is working properly. 1. More surface area, i.e. bigger radiator; 2. More air flow. There's only so much you can do about #1 without major modifications to the front end. #2 is probably where you have to put your efforts. Getting the highest volume fans you can find whether they are electrical or mechanical is a minimum. And fans work much more effectively when they have the right shroud around them. Removing obstructions from in front of the radiator is also key. Lights, winches on bumpers, etc. block air flow. Get them out of the way. Finally, give the air some place to go once it's through the radiator. Hood vents, side fender vents, remove any shields under the engine. Give the air a way to escape and it will naturally flow more air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torq_Shep Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 As an aside and this is just throwing it at the wall as it usually not the case as long as you are anywhere near factory specs for coolant flow... If you have too much flow through the radiator you can not be allowing enough dwell time in the radiator to actually drop the temperature enough. It is a problem I experience at work often but those are engine test cells and not an OEM configuration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 I remember HOrndrod having issues with cooling his stroker so he put a flow restrictor in one of the hoses. Here it is. as did Gjeep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSch88L Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Have you tried waterless coolant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted September 22, 2020 Author Share Posted September 22, 2020 2 hours ago, OldSch88L said: Have you tried waterless coolant? No, but we don’t have access to any here anyways. The radiator/fan combo simply can’t keep up with the engine when under load Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 2 hours ago, OldSch88L said: Have you tried waterless coolant? is that the flintstone equivalent to just get out and blow on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted September 22, 2020 Author Share Posted September 22, 2020 1 hour ago, MiNi Beast said: is that the flintstone equivalent to just get out and blow on it? I believe he’s referring to racing type coolant which is pure glycol. It’s supposed to be some really good stuff. I’ll see if our one racing outfitter has any otherwise I may be able to order some and send via ocean freight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 do you run a oil cooler as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted September 22, 2020 Author Share Posted September 22, 2020 22 minutes ago, MiNi Beast said: do you run a oil cooler as well? No I don’t. Not a bad idea but would be a supplement once I get the coolant temps down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 or before may help overall. front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derf Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 I had good luck with an oil cooler helping me keep temps under control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 13 hours ago, WahooSteeler said: Have you looked in to a water wetter or going to a waterless coolant, i.e. Evans? Not sure if it will help, I'm no expert, just throwing out ideas. I used Red Line water wetter in my truck before I converted to open and it definitely seemed to help. https://www.evanscoolant.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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