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Coolant Filter Install


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I hope that everyone that sees this thread will go check their coolant and change it regularly. I believe the previous owner of my truck put stop leak and never really changed the coolant.  After over a year of dealing with disgusting coolant and multiple attempts at flushing with distilled water and Prestone radiator flush. I had enough and was determine to fix my problem once for all. 

Parts List

Wix Coolant Filter 24070 5in length or 24069 4 in length. (Make sure the coolant filter does not have chemicals in it. These two filter do not have any chemicals in them.)

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Wix Filter Base 24763

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Hose Clamps

Heater Hose(maybe be need depending on mounting location)

Barb Hose Fittings 5/8" Barb 1/2" Threads Ace Hardware 4501235 (Any fittings will work just make sure the threads are 1/2")

Metal (if you choose to make a mounting bracket)

Determining The Cause of Coolant Turing Colors

Coolant in our trucks are suppose to be an alien neon green color. The problem I was facing was my coolant over a 2-4 week period would turn brown. There is three major potential causes of this change in coolant color. I am not an expert but here are my understanding from my research.

1. Possible Oil Contamination: To check look in the radiator and overflow bottle or look in the coolant bottle on closed systems for a milkshake like substance. Also look at the oil dip stick and oil fill cap for this milkshake as well.  If found this indicates a possible head gasket issues or on automatic models the trans cooler built into the radiator has failed. If you take a sample of coolant and let it sit unshaken for a few hours to a day, you will see oil separate and float to the top of the coolant. 

2. Exhaust Gases:  To check open the cap on the radiator on open systems or coolant bottle while COLD and start your engine. If exhaust gases are getting into the system, you should see a stream of bubbles escaping over a long period of time. A good coolant system without exhaust gasses leaks will have a few bubbles on start up is normal and will disappear shortly. 

3. Rust: If you can rule out the first two, this is most likely your problem. A good check is removing the radiator cap and overflow bottle cap or bottle cap and looking into the system to see if there any brown sluge. Also if you take a sample of the coolant out and let it sit unshaken for a few hours to a day, you will see a separation of heavier sluge and particles on the bottom of the container. My problem was rust in my coolant system. This is a problem with our engines due to the block and heads being made out of iron.

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Cleaning and Refreshing the Coolant System

Step 1: I highly recommend using Thermocure flush before install. Works wonders to get rid of rust and sludge in the system. The process of doing a flush with Thermocure is simple by just draining the coolant system and dumping in one bottle of Thermocure with distilled water. Then just put the coolant system through several cycles. I left in it for about 4 days since i consider my case severe.  Below is before and after pictures of the coolant overflow bottle with only Thermocure and distilled water. Also behind the water pump after use. 

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Step 2: To ensure reliability and cleanness of the coolant system, I highly recommend replacing the following parts:

Radiator 

Water Pump

Thermostat

Optional but still recommend doing it at the same time.

Hoses

Overflow/ Coolant Bottle

Also don't cheap out on these parts and buy them used. I learned that the hard way with the radiator because I believe the Jeep it came from had issues and it added to the problems with my truck in regards to the coolant system.

Tips on Refreshing the Coolant System

I could have done a write up on installing a water pump, radiator, etc but since those are easy to find out the process to do. Here are some tips that I learn that will help with install with these parts.

1. Loosen the nuts on the fan pulley and bolts on the water pump bolts with the belt still on. These pulleys can become hard to hold on to in order to loosen the hardware with out the tension of the belt on the pulleys.

2. In order to remove the radiator cross member, unbolt the front clip from the fenders and move it about an inch forward. This will allow easy removal and prevent the unnecessary pain of removing torx bolts on the cross member to remove the front clip support bracket.  

3. Make sure you put rtv on the water pump and thermostat gaskets to ensure no leaks.  

Coolant Filter Install

Step 1: Drain coolant system before install. 

Step 2.: Find a suitable location to place the filter and base. Find what works the best for you and your truck. The location I chose was behind the ac compressor /alternator and forward of the distributor mounted on a bracket that I made that bolts to the valve cover.

Step 3:  The coolant filter will be run in line with one of the heater hose due to the filter is a by pass filter and can not handle the volume of water on a main coolant hose. I chose to run the filter on the return line for the heater core with the hose connectors that I had. Depending on your mounting location you may need a  90 degree fittings or other fittings to prevent restricting the hose from free flowing or run in line of the intake of the the heater core. When installing your fittings make sure to use telfon tape or rtv to seal the threads to prevent leaks.  Make sure the hose connectors are run in the correct direction of flow for the hose you wish to use. Below is the diaphragm for renix coolant system routing.

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Step 4: Run the heater hoses to the coolant filter base and use hose camps to secure the hoses. Cut and add as need to fit your application. For my install I just cut the return hoses and remove about 3 inches of hoses to fit the coolant filter.

Step 5: Install Coolant filter onto filter base 

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Step 6: Add protective wire loom or some type of protector to prevent hose(s) from rubbing if needed.

Step 7: Add 50/50 mixed coolant and bleed air out of the coolant system by ruining the engine and getting to operating temp when the thermostat opens up.  Highly recommend getting a coolant funnel makes this process easy to ensure all of the air is bleed out.

My thoughts and experience as of 6/6/2020

I finish this process about 3 weeks ago and I haven't had any trouble except for needing to tighten up a hose camp or two. The coolant is staying that alien green and I don't really see any floating particles in the system. In the overflow bottle there are some particles but that is to be expected in an overflow bottle. Overall I believe this is worth the money and time to do and ensures a longer life for coolant parts and the engine. I might be crazy but my truck seem to run a little bit better and the renix seems to be happier than it has ever been.  I plan on updating with my  experiences and any issues that comes up I will let everyone know. 

Hope this write up will help someone out facing a similar issue. If there any errors or suggestions please let me know and I will edited them in. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

never seen a coolant filter on these. but I like the idea. I just installed new radiator and hoses with overflow tank. I had some wicked colors in my system but not green. I'm thinking the failure was in the stock radiator, hence the upgrade. I eliminated heater core as well to rule out this also a failure point. so I just looped the the hose back, however I could easily mount this filter setup in place and i think i just might. can't hurt I reckon. what might one expect to pay for this filter setup?  

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9 minutes ago, MiNi Beast said:

never seen a coolant filter on these. but I like the idea. I just installed new radiator and hoses with overflow tank. I had some wicked colors in my system but not green. I'm thinking the failure was in the stock radiator, hence the upgrade. I eliminated heater core as well to rule out this also a failure point. so I just looped the the hose back, however I could easily mount this filter setup in place and i think i just might. can't hurt I reckon. what might one expect to pay for this filter setup?  

I can't remember exactly what I pay to do this but here's a quick overview of estimates. Prices may varies depending on where you source the parts from.

$50 for coolant filter and base with shipping on Rock Auto

$10 for 2 hose barb fittings and misc hardwareat Ace Hardware

$Free for metal to make a bracket.

So you're looking at about $60 to do it by ordering some stuff online or if you get the base and filter at the parts store more like $100. From my research RockAuto was the cheapest on the base and filter.

9 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

I think Nickintimefilms did something like this to his XJ.

You're correct and I got little bit inspired by the video he made. There's a few writeups on other forums but personally I feel like how I did it was the most simple and straight forward way that I seen. Also found many threads of people saying that you don't need a coolant filter just maintain your system. :doh: Unfortunately not everyone (including myself) gets a Jeep that has perfect service history. 

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Just now, eaglescout526 said:

Better safe than sorry plus more capacity on coolant. May not be a lot but its more than stock.

I didn't really noticed a huge increased in coolant capacity. I am running an open system with a generic coolant bottle and the total amount for my truck to fill it completely up was 3 gallons total.

 

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  • 4 months later...
On 11/19/2020 at 12:04 PM, A-man930 said:

Have you looked in the filter yet?  You should cut it open when you change it.  

 

On 6/23/2020 at 12:21 AM, MiNi Beast said:

whats the service like then? how long before change filter? 

The service intervals depends on your own truck. I heard of people changing them at every oil change all the way up to 3 years. I personally haven't change it yet since I done the mod I have done about approx 2k miles in 6 months. I plan on ether doing at my next oil change or 1 year from date of install. I will update when I change the filter and I plan on cutting the filter when I do. Also I will try to make a video about my results.:L:

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1 hour ago, MiNi Beast said:

appreciate the follow up. :beerbang:

I really do apologize for the long delay I realized now you ask that back in June and some reason I never got an notification of you responding to it. I swear Gmail hates me.   :doh:

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  • 4 months later...

That's a brilliant idea. Is that a regular remote oil filter set up or something specifically made for filtering coolant? It'd be nice if I could get one that used the same filter as the oil filter. I converted mine over to the HO style filter (what ever the threads are on that). I have multiple 4.0 Jeeps and it's easier to just keep one filter in stock for all of them, not accidentally put wrong filter on vehicle. 

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8 hours ago, Coyote said:

That's a brilliant idea. Is that a regular remote oil filter set up or something specifically made for filtering coolant? It'd be nice if I could get one that used the same filter as the oil filter. I converted mine over to the HO style filter (what ever the threads are on that). I have multiple 4.0 Jeeps and it's easier to just keep one filter in stock for all of them, not accidentally put wrong filter on vehicle. 

It's not a remote oil filter kit it's design for filtering coolant. The base has a certain thread pitch to make sure you don't mix an coolant filter with an oil filter. Generally I wouldn't recommend trying to put an oil filter in place of an actual coolant filter because both filters are design for completely different systems. 

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1 hour ago, MiNi Beast said:

yeah about time i do this before head out over the road. :shhh:

Well it's about time for me to cut that filter open so next month I'll plan to do a filter change and show you guys the results for me.:banana:

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  • 4 months later...

First I want to apologize for the long delay life got in the way and I didn't have time to do the filter change sooner until now. Here's are my findings about 1 year and 3 months later:

The coolant is more yellow than an alien green color of brand new coolant.

Very low to non-existent trash or debris in the coolant system. 

Cut the filter open the top of the filter base has some metal debris from me cutting it open. The media is full of the brown debris that my coolant system used to be completely full of. 

My opinion if you have a worst case scenario you need to change this once a year or if you have a mild case you might can go longer. Also go ahead and change all the coolant too since you got the system open it doesn't hurt it and helps removes the trace amounts still in the system.

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31 minutes ago, MiNi Beast said:

Seems legitimate to me. Will be adding this setup with the new rebuild. Thanks for updating. Appreciate your write up on this. I have found it most useful and informative. :beerbang:

Hey man I think you got a little brown stuff on your nose. :roflmao:

 

Honestly a great idea. I will be adding to the "to do" list.

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16 hours ago, MiNi Beast said:

Seems legitimate to me. Will be adding this setup with the new rebuild. Thanks for updating. Appreciate your write up on this. I have found it most useful and informative. :beerbang:

I will admit was skeptical if this would make a difference but it blew my expectations out of the park.

15 hours ago, watchamakalit said:

Hey man I think you got a little brown stuff on your nose. :roflmao:

 

Honestly a great idea. I will be adding to the "to do" list.

I swear it's just a chocolate bar.:banana:

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  • 4 weeks later...

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