CaptainPatchy Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 On 1/21/2023 at 3:03 AM, strictlyxjs said: I'm glad you had a good experience, i work for dead jeep (13 years). Its a really small mom and pop type place but we ship hundreds of used parts every day. Its to bad because 1000 people will have a great experience with us and we hear crickets but we get one person whos order gets delayed or something out of our control and people go insane. Wow, small world! This is actually one of several parts I've ordered from you guys over the last few years for both of my Jeeps, and I've yet to have a problem with any of them! Thanks again for what you all do over there! On 1/21/2023 at 6:22 AM, JRappleguy said: Well, I’m looking forward to seeing the truck on the ground. Is there a way to order the leafs like you did or just ask them for 3in lower MJ springs? I filled out a request for info on their website and Lew at Alcan reached out to me the next day. I was able to talk with him over the course of a few days via email and a phone call and get them ordered based on the weights I provided and the height/capacity I was looking for. They're really pretty cool people, maybe give them a call and see what they can do for you? Feel free to mention that you saw my truck and they should be able to look up the info they used for me. If you're trying to match front ZJ coils with no other mods, might want to go for a 2" or 1.5" drop instead of the 3" I went for, if you just want to bolt them on and have it match the front perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted February 27, 2023 Author Share Posted February 27, 2023 Mid-Winter update. Finally got my toolbox and tools organized and ran a gas line for my 30K btu unit heater so I can work in somewhat comfortable conditions regardless of what the weather had decided to do that week. I had ordered a larger 1-1/8" Front swaybar to put on the truck at some point, so I took a break from the oily bits and got that installed. Wasn't happy with the extreme endlink angle so I took the ones that were on there, cut them down and welded them back up. Quick coat of paint, and some energy suspension poly bushing and that's done. Next was the rear bar... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted February 27, 2023 Author Share Posted February 27, 2023 I wanted to pair my larger front bar with a rear sway bar as well. Searching around the forums had led me down a few different path's and I'd actually picked up a late 90's S10 chassis bar, but that looked like it was going to be a chore so I'd kind of shelved it. I was reading around and came across some info that Addco had actually made a SWB bar back in the day and it had a part # attached, so after some searching I was actually able to find out that they still make them to order even thought it's no longer listed on their website so I reached out and a week or so later... Mounting it like their instructions called for, I wasn't too impressed with the body-side mounting solution they'd engineered. It was supposed to use the upper shock mount nut to attach an angle bracket to catch the link. First issue with that for me was my shocks were not going to allow that bracket to sit there flush. I tried inverting the shock and while it was closer, it still looked like it would have rubbed and possibly caused issues so I got to laying under there with the links and trying to see what was close and what I could make work. I realized that if I rotated the bar to the back of the axle instead of underneath as they called for, it actually pushed the links back far enough that with my lowered ride height I was really close to the X-Brace in the frame and with the bar level at ride height. The little angle kickbacks on the bar even pushed the upper end back almost like it was designed to go there After some thinking, I decided to go for it. I put both links with brackets attached up on the lip of the x brace and found where the bar was centered. Vice-gripped the angle to the X brace, took the shocks out for clearance and drilled a couple of holes to hold the bracket to the side of the brace. With the bar level, the brackets just sit nicely on that lower lip and I was able to get some 1/2" Grade 8 hardware to bolt through. There's even two holes in the factory brace on the bottom I could stick a combo wrench through to hold the nut! Then it was a pretty simple task of bolting on the end links and snugging everything up, and whoila! A rear bar all my own. Pretty happy with the way it turned out, by a stroke of luck it all worked out and I'm much happier with the solid frame mounted side vs. the shock bracket mount they advised. With the front, that now gives me a 1-1/8" front and 7/8" rear bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salvagedcircuit Posted February 27, 2023 Share Posted February 27, 2023 16 hours ago, CaptainPatchy said: ...I had ordered a larger 1-1/8" Front swaybar to put on the truck at some point, so I took a break from the oily bits and got that installed. Wasn't happy with the extreme endlink angle so I took the ones that were on there, cut them down and welded them back up... Curious, which front sway bar did you end up installing? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted February 27, 2023 Author Share Posted February 27, 2023 7 minutes ago, Salvagedcircuit said: Curious, which front sway bar did you end up installing? Thanks! It's a 1-1/8" bar from Addco. Not sure if it's even listed for the MJ or if it just comes up as an XJ bar but they fit the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted March 4, 2023 Author Share Posted March 4, 2023 I had ordered O-rings for the oil filter adapter because I've got quite a leak at the back of the engine as I'm sure the pictures have shown. I had assumed (I know) that the change from renix to chrysler in 90' would mean I had the later model O-Rings like my 95' XJ had, but I was wrong as I quickly found out when I removed it the first time. I did some searching and found the early 90s used a different kit, so I got that coming, hoping it would be right this time. This is the kit I got: Thankfully, second time was the charm and they all looked to be the right size. When removing the old gaskets I think I might have found the source of at least one leak. The secondary reason for the change is I never liked how the filter pointed straight up vs. the horizontal mount of my XJ. Always seemed like this one took a second longer to build oil pressure vs. my 95' and I think the pump having to fill that filter back up every start might have something to do with that. I had trouble finding a definitive answer on whether or not you could rotate the adapter 90° to the horizontal position with the factory adapter or if I'd need to source a later version. After removing the adapter I can see the locating dowel clear as day so with any luck... I found that the adapter has both depressions in it for mounting! I was able to replace the gaskets and reinstall the adapter horizontal from factory. Will it clear the starter after I bolt up the manual? Only time will tell, but I'm pretty confident it should be fine seeing as my 95' XJ has that orientation from the factory. Next step is tackling the oil pan gasket and RMS, but that'll wait until tomorrow I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted March 5, 2023 Author Share Posted March 5, 2023 Today was a big day, I've never done a RMS on any Jeep I've owned so I figured I'd start early and be careful. Oil pan was easy enough, I've done a few of them before. Looking pretty dirty down there, but for ~245K miles what do you expect? Something back here has been leaking for a WHILE. The rear bearing cap was covered in grime and build up. Got the seal out and bearing cap cleaned out. I'm a little out of my depth here, but I think the bearing looks pretty good considering the mileage? No wierd wear mark or anything unusual so back in it went with a new seal! Both ears pulled off the lower seal trying to remove it from the cap, but the pocket the seal sits in was full of oil. Leads me to believe the seal was most definitely NOT sealing anymore. Fought with the upper seal, had to eventually loosen caps 4 & 5 to give the crank enough play that the seal would finally push through, but finally got it out and got the new upper installed. Put just a drop of Rtv on the cap where the two halves meet, then cleaned the pan up amd got it ready for install. All done! This was MUCH easier to do without the trans in the way, so I'm glad I decided to do it all seeing the condition of the seals now. Now to get cleaned up and get ready to install the manual sometime soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 11, 2023 Share Posted March 11, 2023 any opportunity is a great opportunity to replace the RMS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted March 12, 2023 Author Share Posted March 12, 2023 On 3/10/2023 at 9:17 PM, Pete M said: any opportunity is a great opportunity to replace the RMS. Well, I don't know about ANY opportunity Pete, but it needed to be done anyways! Got my bellhousing all cleaned up, a little too good actually, makes the clean trans look kind of dirty but oh well. Got the Shift fork, new Throw out bearing, new pivot stud and clip all installed on the trans and ready for install Next up was to clean an install the flywheel after the bronze pilot bushing in the crank. I used ARP bolts for both the flywheel and pressure plate. Flywheel torque at 105 ft.lbs. and pressure plate at 55 ft.lbs. per my FSM and internet research. These are the two kits I used for both, with blue locktite #242 to make sure they stay there! Then it was time to get the trans installed! I had a jack/wood under the oil pan and a jack under the trans to hopefully get the angle and height perfect for an easy install. However, an easy install it was not. After pushing, checking, adjusting, pulling, checking the clutch disc and bushing size, raising, lowering and every other possible combination, I just could NOT get the trans to seat. For hours, this was as close as i could get it, just barely too far out to grab a thread on the two bolts at 9 and 3 o'clock. Finally after a much deserved breakfast burrito for dinner, I was able to lay on my back behind the trans, straddling the case with a foot on each side pushing, and swinging a deadblow mallet between my legs onto the back of the trans to get it to slide that last little bit so I could start the bolts. And with that, I move a step closer to my goal of driving it come springtime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted March 19, 2023 Author Share Posted March 19, 2023 I went to install the crossmember last weekend and thought to myself, it doesn't make sense to install old rusty/crusty used parts right alongside new stuff. Since I've got the means, I spent some quality time with a wire wheel and flap disc and cleaned all the rust off the crossmember and adapter. Then gave them several coats of self etching primer and some satin black. Took them home on Friday and got the trans installed and bolted in tonight. Starting to come together from that giant pile of parts it was! Partly for fun and to lock the trans in gear while I was installing it, I got the shifter all mounted up and gently ran it through the gears. It's been too long since I owned my 88' to be sure, but the short throw shifter feels great. I can't wait to get this moving under its own power! There's not much left to do at this point. I've saved the pedals for last since that's the part I'm least familiar with, but it's really motivating to see what was once a huge pile in the corner of the garage and bed of the truck, shrink into just a few parts left to install. I decided to do the Stinky Fabrication trans mount, motor mounts and block plates while I had everything out but we're getting close! Does anyone have any experience with battery relocation on these? I've got a huge AGM battery from my old BMW project that was barely used I thought would be nice to stick in the bed if that's simple enough to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyyank Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 You'll need to run longer wires obviously which can get expensive. If you don't need the space in the bay I'd just swap in a odyssey if you want a fancy battery. Probably cheaper than wire too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted March 26, 2023 Author Share Posted March 26, 2023 On 3/19/2023 at 12:12 AM, Smokeyyank said: You'll need to run longer wires obviously which can get expensive. If you don't need the space in the bay I'd just swap in a odyssey if you want a fancy battery. Probably cheaper than wire too. Would I just connect the positive and negative leads to some welding cable and run that to the back or would I need another distribution block somehow? Might be a project for down the line. Did the pedal swap this weekend. I'd been putting it off since I heard it can be a bear for tall guys. With the center console and drivers seat out I had enough room to contort myself up under there on my back. Got the old pedal box removed. Not pictured is the clutch master bracket, but it was installed! Then while I've got room under there, I was able to drill small pilot holes from the inside at the 3 divots the factory so graciously provided me and then go to the engine side of the firewall to drill them out to size. Made sure to cover the fuse box with tape and a paper towel first to peotect against metal shavings. Used an 11/32" for the bolts and 1&1/2" holesaw for my wilwood master cylinder. The factory stud on the bracket was a m10x1.25, 20mm long if memory serves, so I grabbed another cap screw that length along with two lock nuts and got the master mounted. Required me to get a socket on the inside bolt head with about 18" of extensions so I could reach the wrench from the fender to run the nut down. Looking good so far! Also got the pedal box mounted. Finally 3 pedals! So now to get the wilwood master connected to the actual pedal. I was able to find this 5/16" threaded clevis from speedway local-ish to me and while it fits the pin on the pedal, I'm gonna need to modify it slightly to work proper. Here's the part #s for the master and brake clevis. Basically the clevis portion, while it fits the pin nearly perfectly for bore diameter, it's as wide as the pin is long, so I'm going to chop one side off and move it to the center and then re-weld it to provide strength. I'll be pairing the wilwood master with a slave from a company called Quickdraw that sells an all metal slave with bleed screw and a -3an fitting for the ax15. The whole purpose of mounting it is I needed a distance from the master to slave cylinder so I could have a local hydraulic shop make me a custom hose to fit my application. I used a piece of tie wire to mock up a routing and give me a length and came up with ~52", which I believe is close to what Novak specs for their kit. I know I could have just used a pre-bled kit but I didn't want any plastic parts in the system so I'm building a (hopefully) robust system from parts. Not pictured, but I retorqued my harmonic balancer bolt, installed the driveshaft and exhaust, and finally did a quick oil change. Getting real close to a first fire! Need to tackle the NSS wiring and get my connector wired up for the reverse lights. Finally I've got motor mounts to do at some point, but we're getting there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyyank Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 Someone way smarter than me probably had a better answer, but basically yes. I know you'll want fine strand cable because it's a B to bend if not, proper connectors and that's basically it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted March 30, 2023 Author Share Posted March 30, 2023 While I had a little downtime at work this week ie as able to get the clevis cut down. Then I used a nut and bolt and some stacked washers to space it out to the appropriate width. i asked one of our welders to see if he could Tig it together when he got a second, and after a quick grind and some paint it was done! I messed up and used galvanized washers by mistake which kept offgassing and causing void, but since this is way overkill vs. the stock solution I'm not worried. Was able to get it mocked up and it looks like it should give me enough room for a nylon(?) shim to avoid metal to metal contact but it functions perfectly. Taking my clutch combo to get the hose made hopefully tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted March 31, 2023 Author Share Posted March 31, 2023 Tackled the wiring tonight, used this diagram to pair connections B & C so the starter will engage anytime. I like to think I'm smart enough not to start it in gear, as that's how my 88' was set up anyways. Also wired up a pigtail for A & E with a connector to have reverse lights. Spent some time soldering and getting the connections all set up Finished product. I used a cheap NSS connector that i cannibalized for the pigtail and factory plug so it would all just connect. Found the proper reverse connector as well and got it all put together. i nervously hooked up the battery, and success! Reverse lights work as intended and I briefly hit the starter and it all works! Just need to get that hose made tomorrow and bleed the clutch and it should hopefully fire off. Ive read mixed reports on differences between manual and automatic crankshaft position sensors but I hope that just a renix-era thing and mine will still work no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted April 3, 2023 Author Share Posted April 3, 2023 Struck out trying to source a Hydraulic hose locally. Apparently, the 3/8-24 inverted flare uses a size 3 line that is very uncommon for vehicles or equipment, so while they were able to tell me all about what I'd need, no one local had anything to help me make the line. So I found a shop about 3 hours south of me that makes custom length and style motorcycle lines(what the hydraulic guy said that size line would commonly be used in) so hopefully that'll be here soon. In the meantime, I had purchased motor mounts and block plates to go with my trans mount but was going to put it off until after I had the truck running, so I decided to tackle those this weekend rather than just do nothing! Started off with the drivers side. With the airbox out of the way, it looked significantly easier, and it went pretty quick. Before I started, I took the trans mount nuts completely off so it had as much flex as it wanted. I'd read that leaving them attached would destroy the mount. My existing mounts weren't as bad as some I've seen, but especially on the passenger side, looked like theyd seen better days. Plenty of room to work on the drivers side anyways And (mostly) done! Left the actualy mounting bolts loose until i got both of them in. The only photo I got of the passenger side was the godawful T45 torx bolt that was on the oem mount in one spot. Whatever engineer thought that was a good idea should be beaten. The passenger side was significantly more involved than the driver side was. Between the oil filter, ac lines and bracketry/condenser(?), alternator and all the electrical connections there was alot more going on to work around. I don't think it'd be possible to install the bracket without taking the alternator loose, so that of course meant getting the power steering pump loose to remove belt tension, and then getting the alternator bolt out involved removing my electric fan setup. Kind of a "one thing leads to another and another and etc." sort of day but I was finally able to get them all blue locktited onto the block, and get everything put back around them. Snugged both mounts down to *tight* Ft.-lbs. And reattached the trans mount nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted April 10, 2023 Author Share Posted April 10, 2023 My Hydraulic line came in and it looks very nice for a custom piece at the price I paid! (~$60). before I did anything, I loosely mounted it to the master, and spent some time fishing the line down to make sure it was long enough. I had measure 52" beforehand and that might have even been a little long still. Probably could have got away with a straight end connection and 50". But after checking, I got the whole assembly put together. I also knew I needed to do something about my clutch pedal linkage. Metal-on-metal wouldve eventually caused an issue so I wanted to get some kind of bushing or wear part on there that would be easily replaced down the line. Was able to find this Dorman hinge pin pack that had 2 that would work. Just involved drilling out the center pin to 1/2" and then the bushings are 3/8" i.d. After reverse bleeding the clutch and seeing no more air bubbles I was ready to install! Went in super easy and the first press of the pedal easily broke the nylon straps free on the slave. Put the battery back in and disconnected the fuel pump resistor. My thought was I could crank it to build oil pressure since it'd been off for several months then reattach the resistor and try to start it, however the jeep had other ideas. I got about one ka-chunk of the starter and she fired right up! Promptly ran herself out of fuel, but she fired! I was stunned, I had read all about the nss issues, and ckps sensor problems, flywheel issues, computer issues and everything in between and I had all but convinced myself that I was gonna have to troubleshoot before it would run. Oh well, reattached the ballast resistor and primed it a few times and whadya know? good oil pressure, no leaks and purring away happily with no issues! Well, i said no issues but while it was up on the stands running I tried to cycle through the gears and it felt like for some reason the clutch wasn't disengaging all the way. I'd have to ride the synchros to get it to slot into gear and I knew that wasn't right. Tried adjusting the pedal out to give me more throw on the master cylinder but after measuring I was getting the full 1.25" throw on the master so that wasn't it. Brought the linkage back in a bit so I wouldn't destroy the master seals and pumped it several more times and didn't see any air bubbles so I was at a loss. Posted in the Facebook group asking for ideas and one guy said that his pilot bushing had been just a little bit too tight brand new and had caused the trans to slowly spin and keep it from engaging. Remembering how much of a bear mine was to get in, I took his advice to start it in gear, with the clutch and brake held down and to let it run for a few minutes to kind of "bed-in" the pilot and less than 30 seconds later we were good to go! Took it for its inaugural spin around the neighborhood as a manual and could not be happier! It's a blast! Got back and buttoned up the interior Can't believe it's done, need to find something else to do now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted April 10, 2023 Share Posted April 10, 2023 36 minutes ago, CaptainPatchy said: Can't believe it's done, need to find something else to do now! Um… enjoy it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 10, 2023 Share Posted April 10, 2023 drive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted April 16, 2023 Author Share Posted April 16, 2023 On 4/10/2023 at 9:57 AM, neohic said: Um… enjoy it? On 4/10/2023 at 11:20 AM, Pete M said: drive! I know right!? I've got a problem with tinkering with things I did however, completely forget one crucial thing that I had noticed while early in the disassembly. I've always said this truck was completely rust free, (minus a little surface here and there) but I had found a spot of rot right under the battery tray that was real bad and needed attention. Somewhere between the "garage-majal" reno and a million other little things I'd totally spaced it. Life gets in the way, ya know? Normally I'd chalk it up to "not critical, fix down the line", however this particular spot doesn't allow me to bolt the battery tray down to anything so that big hunk of electric mayhem is just sitting there, with nothing stopping it from shifting, shorting, and destroying, my prized vehicle. I've already ordered a T&M patch panel for this, and I splurged on a metal Dirtbound battery tray to finish the fix. Luckily, it's 40° and raining right now, so I've probably got a week or two before the nice weather is here to stay. I've pretty much made my deadline to have it "finished" by the time spring rolled around so tonight I'm just finishing off a few last minute touches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 16, 2023 Share Posted April 16, 2023 1 minute ago, CaptainPatchy said: I know right!? I've got a problem with tinkering with things don't worry, it's a Jeep. no Jeep is ever finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted April 30, 2023 Author Share Posted April 30, 2023 Sneak peek of another project. Old rear wheels with the 1.25" spacer from earlier. I've been really happy with them, but I don't like the idea of spacers at all so I'm working to get away from having to use them. Just a personal thing. And the fitment with the fender Again, I've been really happy with the look and fit of these wheels, however I have something else in store for the rears... No spacers on these, different offset and width. They're really close, by my math about 5mm further in, so slightly less than 1/4". I took the opportunity to measure my stock, 91' MJ dana 35 rear axle with drums and found it to be 60.625" (60-5/8") wms-wms. Information on these numbers is varied, and hard to come by but that's mine confirmed for this model,year and trim. Do with that what you will internet! I'd like to upgrade my rear anyway, so if I can find a rear axle with a measurement of ~61.5-62" I'd be happy but more research is needed. I could always run slightly longer studs with 1/4" shim spacers but that's a last resort. If anyone has any suggestions I'd appreciate it. Everything I've found says the late model 8.25s are around the same except the Liberty is ~63" which is a bit too wide but we'll see. I've looked into custom width 9" rear ends just with the wild thought I might V8 swap it down the line but they're pricey. The idea of an oem axle for cheap that's close to the right width and strong enough for the 6 now is appealing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted May 13, 2023 Author Share Posted May 13, 2023 Got the rot mostly cut out from the inner fender. was able to cut/grind the spot welds and hammer the panel out with a prybar along the seams. This is the T&M metal fab panel I picked up. 1/8" plate is a little thicker than the inner fender panel but it's close enough. Got it bent up to follow the lines and test fit it against the frame. Borrowed a 110v Flux core from work to get it tacked before taking it over to my dad's to finish weld it with his 220v Miller and gas. Just wanted to get it secure enough to mount the battery tray so I could drive it over. Did two rosettes to the frame underneath and two small ones to the inner fenderwell up above. Secure enough to mount the dirtbound tray i picked up Battery feels very secure now, I'm going to finish weld it all along the front panel seams and cut some more plate to fill in that area in front of the fusebox but this will do for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted May 13, 2023 Author Share Posted May 13, 2023 Double update for tonight, got my new wheels/tires back from being mounted and balanced. My old tires were still the 17x9s that had 26mm of offset from an 03-04 mustang cobra. I needed to run 1.25" spacer on the rear to get the rears somewhat flush with the fenders as many have done, but I wanted to get away from the spacers if possible like I said. Enter the new setup: Those are 17x10.5" with 20mm offset matching cobra style rear wheels, with a nice fat lip. Finished them off with 315 wide Nitto NT555 G2 tires. Got it outside under its own manual power to take some quick photos. I couldnt be happier with it! Needs to come out about .5" either side to really be even with the fenders but she's sitting pretty now. Took it for a spin around the neighborhood quick, came back and rechecked the fluids and lug nuts and then took it for a quick spin out on the open road. First impressions are that 1st gear is all but useless! Acceleration is lightning fast even with 3.55s, would probably be a better cruiser with 3.05s but it's definitely quick enough for now. Speedo is STILL off, must have screwed up my math on that one, will have to explore further. Used a GPS speedo on my phone and it definitely gets out of its own way right quick. Had to hurry home to beat some storms but we made it! 4th and 5th gear whine pretty bad, especially under constant light throttle, probably needs more mileage to break in proper bit everything else is running perfect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainPatchy Posted May 21, 2023 Author Share Posted May 21, 2023 Found the source of my whine, the guy that rebuilt the trans apparently didn't feel the need to put any fluid in it! Got the ~3.5 quarts of royal purple 75W-90 yellow metal safe gear oil in it and she's running and shifting much better. Thankfully I only drove for maybe 20 miles without fluid and only on surface streets so with any luck it's going to be okay. It's much quieter now so that's a good sign? Got the patch panel finish welded in, needed to run a few welds to get it dialed in and looking pretty Not great but plenty of heat penetration. Had problems with the ~16ga frame/fender panel to the 1/8" patch panel but finally got the rust out Looking better, happy with those. Seam sealed all the joints and painted everything with some rustoleum matte implement paint. Undercoated everything in the fender well after paint. I don't really ever drive in the rain so it should last forever but wanted to make it weatherproof just in case. Next up was to get the shocks figured out. Pulled up the PDF of Monroe catalog for every shock they make and cross-referenced the stock MJ length and styles vs. some other lengths and found something ~3-4" shorter front and rear and got them ordered and installed. These are the numbers I used, but mine will be different from most with my custom leafs. Front shock difference. The rear (not pictured) was even worse since they accounted for the 4" drop blocks I removed. Crazy enough they STILL weren't bottoming out but they were still too close for comfort. I also trimmed 1.5" out of the rear bumpstops to give some more travel. It rides much better and smoother now, and doesn't seem to bottom out at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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