Pete M Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 the ujoints will accommodate the offset pinion (side-to-side angles) in the same manner they accommodate the up/down angles. just make sure the ujoints are brand new. used joints don't like changes in their operating angles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 Why do you want to narrow the axle so badly? Comanches are wide in the rear, so having a wider axle will let the rear tire fill out the wheel well some. It should also make the truck more stable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars-S Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 My main concern is the offset since moving engine trans isn't going to happen. Shortening one side is much more doable than trying to make other side longer hence my leaning toward shorter wms to wms It is windy and below freezing so not going outside to take measurements so did some trigonometry on hypothetical driveshaft lengths. If the offset is 2" and the DS is 25" long that gives an offset angle of 4.59*. If OS is 2" but DS is 36" long then angle is down to 3.189.. Both cases are under 5* and I'm fairly sure LOL my DS isn't only 25" long. PS I did find couple of shafts cheap so technically could add to one side or delete from other but waiting to hear from DS builder if up to 2" of OS isn't an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 I ran a 97. When I did my research, I had 95,97 and 98 axles all on hand. The 96-97 are wider than the 93-95 models. 97 literally had the perches in the exact location for my YJ application which is the same as MJ iirc. I'd run the 98+ on an MJ. I'm running the KJ 8.25 now and the width is a very nice match. More bracketry work though for the later axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 I am not sure on what year my Isuzu axle is. I remember it being the later Gen. Also, it is the Waggy axle I will be shortening. If that was asked to me. My Waggy is also a passenger side drop. I forget who's axle arch kit I used. It had to be modified for the passenger side drop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars-S Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 (edited) On 3/21/2024 at 2:42 PM, ghetdjc320 said: I ran a 97. When I did my research, I had 95,97 and 98 axles all on hand. The 96-97 are wider than the 93-95 models. 97 literally had the perches in the exact location for my YJ application which is the same as MJ iirc. I'd run the 98+ on an MJ. I'm running the KJ 8.25 now and the width is a very nice match. More bracketry work though for the later axles. On 3/22/2024 at 7:22 AM, 75sv1 said: I am not sure on what year my Isuzu axle is. I remember it being the later Gen. Thanks .. yes the 96-97 is nice in it's width, equal shafts, having leaf perches, and it does have the thick(vette) D44 gears .. I went with having to remove a ton of coil spring related brackets, needing to add perches, offset pinion, unequal shafts, and wider wms to wms to get the D226 center and big tubes. Having a 8.9" ring gear and the beefy pinion shaft seemed worth the extra needed work. Thanks again for all feedback. Edited March 24 by Lars-S Added photo to show brackets need to remove Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars-S Posted May 16 Share Posted May 16 Been working on (ok procrastinating lol) how to proceed with this axle .. including potentially making it FF using F250/Waggie/Chevy front spindle/hubs .. I yanked the Trac Loc out to replace the clutches (and redo bearings).. After I did I saw small angular bits that are rubber or silicone.. they were just the other side of diff bearing caps going towards tubes.. I also found what appears to be silicon/rubber O rings in the diff just the other side of those bearings.. I can't find any parts diagrams or rebuild kits that shows or mentions these.. I have not idea why they would even be there.. nothing would seal against them or even come close to touching them.. I need to get an inspection mirror but I ran my fingers on the underside of the casting portion that is next to where bearing caps are and can feel rough silicone rubber (where those angular bits came from?? Anyone run into these oddities .. Photo shows bits lying next to O ring both are just where tubing ends inside pumpkin housing. O ring is the center bits next to and on top of it.. probably about 1/16" chunks up to 1/8" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted May 18 Share Posted May 18 On 5/16/2024 at 3:16 PM, Lars-S said: I believe what you are seeing there is sealer that is applied to the axle tubes before they are pressed into the center casting. I've seen the same thing on several Dana 44s that I have worked on. I peel out the excess, if it is loose. If it is still solidly in place, I leave it alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted May 18 Author Share Posted May 18 3 hours ago, schardein said: I believe what you are seeing there is sealer that is applied to the axle tubes before they are pressed into the center casting. I've seen the same thing on several Dana 44s that I have worked on. I peel out the excess, if it is loose. If it is still solidly in place, I leave it alone. I’ve seen it in almost every Dana axle I’ve worked on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars-S Posted May 18 Share Posted May 18 8 hours ago, schardein said: I believe what you are seeing there is sealer that is applied to the axle tubes before they are pressed into the center casting. I've seen the same thing on several Dana 44s that I have worked on. I peel out the excess, if it is loose. If it is still solidly in place, I leave it alone. 5 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said: I’ve seen it in almost every Dana axle I’ve worked on. Thanks .. seems yes that is what it is.. supposedly they used to just use RTV but that was a nuisance so a simple made to size O ring was installed instead in later years.. Since it no doubt is silicone rubber and with its location inboard it shouldn't be impacted by welding of the tubes to help prevent their spinning. Guess the threads that seem to be there are for potential adjusters in some M226's, like the Titans, but not in the Isuzu/Honda since the caps don't have the retainers to keep them from spinning once tightened. ?? I still need to get a mirror to see what the granular feeling stuff is on one side of tube but may just be that top portion of O ring was nicked up (the chunks) with axle removal replacement perhaps to do wheel bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WVpioneer_88 Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 What yoke did you all use for the Isuzu d44? And do you know the size of the pinion nut? I’m in the process I building waggy 44 front and Isuzu 44 rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 Depends on the year. If you can use the flange it’s a stronger design than the yoke. But on my 97 I swapped on a standard D44 1310 yoke. The 98+ would use the JK yoke in whatever seize you need Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WVpioneer_88 Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 What steering did you all go with? Thinking about using something with heim joints. Idk? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted June 6 Author Share Posted June 6 6 hours ago, WVpioneer_88 said: What steering did you all go with? Thinking about using something with heim joints. Idk? On my waggy 44 I ran a ruff stuff 3/4 heim kit. Worked well at the time but I’m not really a fan of heim steering anymore. I’d go 1 ton tre’s and build a system around that. The heim joints have no good way of greasing them and purging out the crap that will inevitably get in them. Plus, even though you may precisely drill a hole for a bolt, it will always have more play than a tapered fitting. But DOM linkage is nice to have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars-S Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 Just in case FYI stuff : Further actual work on my 01 Isuzu Dana 44(226) isn't going to be happening in the near future.. due to life priorities that said I have been doing lots of procrastination research and picking up pieces here and there when something hits low $ price points in my budget. It seems getting new standard axles is not an option as neither Isuzu, Honda, or others offer them anymore. I was happy to find that the same axle is used regardless of side of differential it is being put in.. I like that as then one can carry just one replacement if traveling or in outback. One thing I can afford is using free software programs.. I have made a 3D axle assembly of the components for a rear axle assembly with wheels and tires.. It allows trying different size tires, wheels, offsets, backspacing to see where everything ends up.. I made it so the axle tube lengths can be changed with any of those combinations to likewise see impacts.. I also have been playing with switching it to full floater.. My current 3D scenario uses Waggie/Chevy front spindles & hubs.. The design is bolt on versus welded or using the D60 style weld on ends.. I originally thought of using them but I prefer being able to replace a spindle fairly easily if something happens.. Again just hypothetical FYI alert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars-S Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 This attachment shows the various pieces / stages from just pumpkin with tubes to with wheels and tires mounted. Its easy for me to vary where the end of the tubes are (length) and then everything else automatically shifts as well. Likewise by using a table/spreadsheet it is easy to try different tire/wheel sizes including changing offsets/backspacing.. Makes me feel like I'm getting something done :) while waiting to do actual work and best of all not spend $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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