BoneheadJeeper Posted February 21, 2020 Posted February 21, 2020 Ive been tinkering on this guy for a bit, you all helped me find the no idle issue and I really appreciate it, so thank you. But...now i have new issues. I was driving it today on the longest trip since purchased, and the trip was mostly down the road and back. Its now, after getting towed, in my yard without any electrical functions... Turn the key and nothing, but i have power to my fuse panel under the dash. I have a new battery, terminals are fine. I turn the key on and the radio doesnt even get power. It also started a horrible miss right before it completely shut off. Ive checked voltage on ignition with key on and it has 12v along with battery. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
eaglescout526 Posted February 21, 2020 Posted February 21, 2020 Check the starter solenoid under the relay center on the passenger side fender. Check for corrosion and such. Check the CPS too for the proper AC voltage.
BoneheadJeeper Posted February 21, 2020 Author Posted February 21, 2020 It died out as I was driving, would the either of these cause it to be dead in the water, no radio power or anything? Or cause it to spit and sputter randomly? I just replaced it with a new one when I purchased it. I swapped out relays and no change, haven't checked cps yet, what should the proper voltage be?
jdog Posted February 21, 2020 Posted February 21, 2020 Check the fuse able links near the battery, they look like normal wires but will open like a fuseStock 1988 swb 4.0 ax15 np 231.
Ωhm Posted February 21, 2020 Posted February 21, 2020 Using a voltmeter or testlight check for B+ on the following pins: D1_5: B+ (Hot at all times) D1_2: B+ (Hot during KEY ON/CRANKING). D1_6: KEY ON (B+ (For 2-3 seconds)) or CRANKING (B+ (Hot during CRANK)).
BoneheadJeeper Posted February 21, 2020 Author Posted February 21, 2020 11 minutes ago, Ωhm said: Using a voltmeter or testlight check for B+ on the following pins: D1_5: B+ (Hot at all times) D1_2: B+ (Hot during KEY ON/CRANKING). D1_6: KEY ON (B+ (For 2-3 seconds)) or CRANKING (B+ (Hot during CRANK)). What connector is that?
54bobby Posted February 21, 2020 Posted February 21, 2020 under hood, pass side under relay cover. should have yellow caps over them
BoneheadJeeper Posted February 22, 2020 Author Posted February 22, 2020 So D1-5 is hot. The the others are nothing. Also checked fusable link, ive never mesed with these before so i just stuck my volt meter + tip into the rubber, i got 12v.
Ωhm Posted February 22, 2020 Posted February 22, 2020 19 hours ago, jdog said: Check the fuse able links near the battery, they look like normal wires but will open like a fuse Need to examine the fusible links (stud on starter relay). Pay close attention to the green ones (open, burnt, etc). If Fusible Links look good. disconnect C268 at the IGN SW. With a testlight or voltmeter check C268_B3 for B+ (Hot at all times).
Ωhm Posted February 22, 2020 Posted February 22, 2020 Open circuit/fusible link between IGN SW (C268_B3) and Starter Relay (Fusible Link F).
BoneheadJeeper Posted February 22, 2020 Author Posted February 22, 2020 Ok so ive checked ohms, voltage checked all fusable links, everything but the b3 terminal is getting the correct amount of voltage. Its getting .6v with my meter. I'm lost. I have swapped all relays that are swappable and no change.
BoneheadJeeper Posted February 22, 2020 Author Posted February 22, 2020 Is there a NSS on these comanches? Would this have anything to do with no ignition power?
jdog Posted February 23, 2020 Posted February 23, 2020 not usually, whats your ohm reading of the fuse link to b3?
eaglescout526 Posted February 23, 2020 Posted February 23, 2020 1 hour ago, BoneheadJeeper said: Is there a NSS on these comanches? Would this have anything to do with no ignition power? Only if its an auto.
Ωhm Posted February 23, 2020 Posted February 23, 2020 2 hours ago, BoneheadJeeper said: Would this have anything to do with no ignition power? One side of the Starter Relay control coil, get B+ for the IGN SW (start circuit). The other side of coil is grounded through the NSS. Depending of NSS position (PRNDL) circuit is either OPEN or CLOSED for path to ground. Just got you message.
BoneheadJeeper Posted February 23, 2020 Author Posted February 23, 2020 15 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: Only if its an auto. Its auto. 2.5l. I gave @ohm my number and he called me. We ohm'd from b3 to the starter relay, everything checked according to him. We went as far as using a jumper with an inline fuse, from the fuse box-b3 and still nothing. At the end of the day, he was stumped, and so am I. And also C267 is not a plug in my jeep.
Ωhm Posted February 23, 2020 Posted February 23, 2020 1 minute ago, BoneheadJeeper said: And also C267 is not a plug in my jeep. Can you post the photo of IGN SW?
jdog Posted February 23, 2020 Posted February 23, 2020 i don't have a column in front of me but that looks like the high beam switch
BoneheadJeeper Posted February 23, 2020 Author Posted February 23, 2020 6 minutes ago, jdog said: i don't have a column in front of me but that looks like the high beam switch If thats a high beam switch then I'll be highly irritated lol. But the plug i took out of it looks just like the c268.
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