omega_rugal Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 is there a way to install this feature on a MJ? now that may comanche can get over 45 mph without rattling like the piece of junk it is i find the steering too sensitive at those speed, i was thinking about a putting a T and some evalves to control the flow of the steering fluid but if there´s an easier way i would like to hear it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyyank Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 You probably just need to freshen up the steering in general. Have you replaced the TRE's or anything else? Your box and pump might also be giving up the ghost. No need to run a ram assist on a stock rig...ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omega_rugal Posted June 17, 2019 Author Share Posted June 17, 2019 i replaceds some worn bushings quiten the opposite, the steering pump is working, i need it to STOP working gradually at speeds higher than 35 mph... apparently V8 WJs come with an EVO (electronicly variable orifice) it threads between the pump and the high pressure hose, now all i need is a circuit to turnit on-off depending on output shaft speed... piece of cake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyyank Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 If you are getting too much play then your box might be failing. You can adjust it to tighten it up but might just need to replace the entire steering gear. As for the EVO that was an option on 96 zj's IIRC. If your rig is stock or close to stock I would not venture down that rabbit hole. If you want to improve the stock set up Durango box and WJ pump are a great upgrade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omega_rugal Posted June 17, 2019 Author Share Posted June 17, 2019 i did adjust the box a bit, almost no play there. do the WJ pump fit a renix block? or do i need the bracket and everything attached to it...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 I have a WJ pump and it absolutely doesn't have EVO. It fits the HO brackets if you swap pulleys or mill the bracket, so I guess it should fit a Renix bracket. I don't know what your problem is. With the WJ pump and hydro-assist I'd say my steering is a little touchy at highway speed, which isn't really a surprise given the flowrate of the pump and the amount of force the assist will put out, but my less modded MJ with a factory Renix pump and box is not at all. I think something else is making you perceive it as touchy, such as other worn out components or a lack of caster. Edit, if the V8 WJ has some sort of EVO, it would be after the T fitting to run the hydraulic cooling fan. I didn't take any of those components when I removed the pump. The XJ/MJ hose will fit the WJ pump if you swap the output fitting with the orifice in it, so likewise if you wanted to run the WJ lines to get the EVO you could probably just use the fitting out of the WJ pump. The only reason the WJ pump is ported and of a higher displacement is that it has to run the cooling fan continuously. I don't think it's an upgrade that anyone would want unless they had hydro-assist steering, or perhaps hydroboost brakes, otherwise it's a solution looking for a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyyank Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 1 hour ago, omega_rugal said: i did adjust the box a bit, almost no play there. do the WJ pump fit a renix block? or do i need the bracket and everything attached to it...? It should be having "play" there. It's the adjustment to tighten up the steering. Should be a hex head adjustment. It's not bolt on, when I had it on my XJ I had to tap a bracket and modify some things. Nothing crazy though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omega_rugal Posted June 17, 2019 Author Share Posted June 17, 2019 i don´t know if it has to be ordered or came with some trims, but the EVO only appears in WJ V8s, it´s just relevant at highway speeds so i bet only 2WD models had them. 7 minutes ago, Smokeyyank said: It should be having "play" there. It's the adjustment to tighten up the steering. Should be a hex head adjustment. i did that. there´s little to no play in the steering wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 12 minutes ago, Smokeyyank said: It should be having "play" there. It's the adjustment to tighten up the steering. Should be a hex head adjustment. There needs to be a certain amount of backlash or the gears may lock up. But no, not much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omega_rugal Posted June 17, 2019 Author Share Posted June 17, 2019 never mind, the EVO is not a screw-in part, the pumps are diferent, and kind rare to find, specially the EVO solenoid... i gonna have to improvise here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 49 minutes ago, omega_rugal said: i gonna have to improvise here How about check your alignment and for worn parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 Omega, you have an '88. That was still an AMC vehicle, regardless of whether yours happened to have been built before or after the Chrysler take-over. And AMC was always notorious for over-boosting their power steering. They always had zero road feel. You don't need to modify the system at all, you just need a steering box with a different spool valve in it. There's a world of difference in the steering feedback between my '88 XJ and MJ compared to my 2000 XJ. See if you can pick up a late ZJ box and put that in. (Just remember that the ZJ used a dropped pitman arms, so you'll have to swap your pitman arm onto the "new" box.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 You could also shim the regulator so the pump is only putting out 600-800 PSI. More than enough for maneuvering at low speed, but not a ton for the highway. Would only cost some time and a washer or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 10 hours ago, DirtyComanche said: You could also shim the regulator so the pump is only putting out 600-800 PSI. More than enough for maneuvering at low speed, but not a ton for the highway. Would only cost some time and a washer or two. This is something I would like to pursue for my older MJs and the '88 XJ -- which I still have. I never knew there was a simple way to do it. What is this regulator of which you speak? I thought the boost pressure was controlled by the spool valve in the steering box. Where is this regulator and where do you put the shim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 17 minutes ago, Eagle said: This is something I would like to pursue for my older MJs and the '88 XJ -- which I still have. I never knew there was a simple way to do it. What is this regulator of which you speak? I thought the boost pressure was controlled by the spool valve in the steering box. Where is this regulator and where do you put the shim? I don't know if it would work actually, you might have to turn the pressure down so much that it would be annoying at low speed, and I'm not sure if adding that much shim would keep the regulator functional or if it would just bypass all the time. A guy might need a new spring for that, which could be hard to source. The output fitting in the P/S pump has the pump pressure regulator behind it. You can take the fitting out the pump, it just takes a 13/16" socket or so, then fish out the regulator with a magnet, and then take the regulator apart by clamping it in a vice (use soft jaws, hose, etc to protect it) and undoing the cap off the end of it (1/2" wrench I think). There's a shim between the body and the cap of it sometimes, that's where you would add shim. Conversely, if you shim the inside of it (under the spring) you will increase the pressure. I had pictures of this somewhere. I've only ever turned them up, never down, so I don't know if it will change how things feel a lot. I don't really have data for stock(ish) applications. Normally I crank them up for people because they complain their oversized/badly scrubbing tires make the steering heavy/hard at low speed/in 4wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokinn Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 I had the pressure reduced on my steering pump. How it was done I don't have a clue but... I took my steering box in to a local rebuilder and had it rebuilt as well as installing a ZJ worm gear. I had him check out the pump as well as it seemed to make a fair bit of noise and the whole steering just seemed amped up compared to anything I had driven before. Even allowing for the worn box. He said he reduced the pressure in it as it was significantly more than it needed to be functional. IIRC he said he reduced it from 17 to 9 psi but don't quote me. The road feel is much better and there is no hard steering at low speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 2 hours ago, DirtyComanche said: The output fitting in the P/S pump has the pump pressure regulator behind it. You can take the fitting out the pump, it just takes a 13/16" socket or so, then fish out the regulator with a magnet, and then take the regulator apart by clamping it in a vice (use soft jaws, hose, etc to protect it) and undoing the cap off the end of it (1/2" wrench I think). There's a shim between the body and the cap of it sometimes, that's where you would add shim. Conversely, if you shim the inside of it (under the spring) you will increase the pressure. I had pictures of this somewhere. In the parts diagram, are you referring to part number 12, the "valve"? So I would shim between #22 and #12? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 29 minutes ago, Eagle said: In the parts diagram, are you referring to part number 12, the "valve"? So I would shim between #22 and #12? Yes. Let me know if it works. When shimming the spring inside a very small difference in preload makes a significant pressure difference. I'd assume it will be similar if shimming it there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 Might have to give this a shot when I get a chance. Never been happy with the steering feel in either of my trucks. I'm thinking about switching to a ZJ box, but even the faintest hint of road feel would be nice on the stock setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 WJ pump and ZJ box is a perfect combination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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