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1988 "lowmanche"


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So tonight after getting back from the avengers movie I  started the final weld up, I've been working in the comanche here and there during the week. made some steering extensions out of some grade 8 nuts and bolts and tigged then up during lunch break. Decided to weld my upper arm mount brace to the frame in before(under) the shock tower to give about 3/8-1/2" more uptravel at the wheel (3/16 more shock travel). Other than that it's all just simply gluing everything together at this point. Still havent really decided how I'm going to brace this thing, I have a few ideas. At this point I'd love to just be able to drive it again come Monday. 

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So close to getting the comanche bolted together and accidentally grabbed a left hand threaded nut from ace this morning. Ugh. Steering is tacked on. Gonna weld that up then go get some nuts. 

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23 hours ago, cody4359 said:

You going to keep it spread out like that or get some wheels with less offset? Don't know if you have room or like the skakeboard look

Not really sure what you're asking 

 

Anyways here's some more pics from last night, gonna pick up some light 2x2 1/8" wall tubing to build some supports tomorrow morning, other than that it's pretty much ready to drive after some paint.  

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With a back injury plaguing me earlier this week I finally felt fit enough to go out to the garage again last night. Got the braces done and the suspension is ready for some cleaning and paint. Woot woot. Made a 3/16 plate to spread out the load on the bottom of the frame rail. Then 2x2 1/8" wall square tubing to tie everything together. This should add the most strength possible while keeping everything very light weight. While it most likely wouldnt be driveable in this event but it should hypothetically keep the crossmember from ripping off the frame in the event of a front end collision. 

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So I got it bolted together and have been driving it so far this week.

Drives great, minor bump steer but that's due to the extended tie rods (tie rods and arms have a different swing radius causing a minor toe change) it's very minor and only when one wheel hits a big bump, maybe 10° in the steering wheel. Should be fixed with inner tierod extensions that will be here this week. Realistically they should be 3" long but all that is readily available to me is 2". So I may have 3"ers machined eventually if it's still any bit noticeable.

Other than that the cobra wheels have a 24-28mm offset, something in that area,  and I'm on the high end for manual rack caster (3°). So I will be looking to move to a wheel with 40-45mm offset to make steering a bit easier, it's still "one hand-able" but I never need an excuse to buy a set of wheels. :D

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9 hours ago, krustyballer16 said:

Got any better pics of how the rear suspension/ axle is attached?

Very cool. Now I wanna do it! 

So far, for the cost and time, does it handle better or as well as you had hoped?

Handling is something that is definitely better but I havent really fine tuned it enough yet to know how hard I can take a corner. Definitely 100% better than stock lol. Rear axle is just 4 vertical bolts but I'll try to get some soon. 

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So rear axle is just bolted to the X member and then you made shock mounts?
It's that simple? Or is there more work not pictured?

The front doesnt look that complicated either. Especially how you did it.

Ya, I'd definitely be interested in more pics.

Doesnt look like oil pan is a clearance issue.
I think this would be a cool setup for my LS swap when I do it.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

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On 5/17/2019 at 8:38 AM, krustyballer16 said:

So rear axle is just bolted to the X member and then you made shock mounts?
It's that simple? Or is there more work not pictured?

The front doesnt look that complicated either. Especially how you did it.

Ya, I'd definitely be interested in more pics.

Doesnt look like oil pan is a clearance issue.
I think this would be a cool setup for my LS swap when I do it.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

Rear has two bolts in the x, two front bolts on the slop of the frame. If you look up the newer mustang irs on ebay you can see there are 4 vertical attachment points. It's that simple. Make some brake line adapters, and get a yoke made for a standard u joint and done. I'll try to remember to grab some pics tomorrow

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Some more pics of the rear mounting. Those are 1&1/8 nuts welded to the frame with supports. Just locate axle and make mounts. Pretty simple stuff and I can change the ride height or geometry with spacers and longer bolts at any moment. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got some new lights in the front. Used the truck to haul some wood with only minor tire rub. 

 

The comanche is sitting stagnant for a month while i finish the jk to sell. With these hot summer months I have no desire to drive it with no a/c anyways.

 

I think I'm going to tear it a part again in order to make it even lower, remove the bed back half and use a set of hanneman bedsides then make my own fronts fenders. Truck will be about 4" off the ground to the frame when I'm said and done. 

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  • 1 month later...
On 8/2/2019 at 10:40 PM, Pete M said:

indeed it is :D  it's going to be crazy cool when it's done 

 

thoughts for the front?

Will be making my own, what I will decide on I'm not sure of, aluminum or fiber glass. Part of my did want to use the original bedsides with wide 60° trailer fenders front and rear, sort of like an early mustang Kyle look. 

On 8/2/2019 at 10:47 PM, JMO413 said:

That looks awesome! :banana:

Thanks man

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  • 3 weeks later...

Did some work this weekend. Took the tcase hump out as it's a 2wd truck anyway and gave myself some leg room. Made some fish plates for the rockers and tops of the frame rails. Then I made a rocker to rocker support bar and tied it into the top of the frame rails. This will all connect to the main hoop for the roll bar. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

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