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HIGH ALTITUDE renix CPS, do they exist anymore?

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I had an old part number for these, mopar 53005421 in my notes.

 

I can't find it anywhere

 

has it been superceded or discontinued?

 

i run 90 octane boat fuel and can take advantage of more timing advance. (could just modify the stock one I guess.)

 

this makes me sad :(

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i really want the kit with the bypass harness that wires the CPS straight to the ECU.

 

wish i'd saved those harnesses over the years... stupid stupid stupid...

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it's been a while, but I'm pretty sure I remember reading that you can make your own "high alt CPS" by notching the CPS holes to pushing it over for some advance in the timing.

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There is only one Mopar high altitude sensor left and it’s at a dealer in Nebraska. One could pop up on eBay but chances are slim. There’s also eleven of the repair kit you are talking about left in the US. Part number for the repair kit is 4443965. 

Thats what Chrysler is showing me. 

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there was a TSB released in 93 (if i remember right, this is going back a while now) where mopar sold a kit that gave you a short harness that you plugged right into the ECU connector under the dash.

 

essentially this was a quick fix for the C101 connector issue for 87/88 renix models as the wire length started to cause voltage drop and well, that dodgy connector didn't help either so they bypassed the CKP leads directly to the ECU to raise the peak to peak AC voltage of the sensor's signal.

 

the connector in my harness has seen better days and I'd love to just install one of these harnesses. still works right but it's just one of those things that bothers the engi-nerd in me.

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well the NTK O2 sensor has been pretty good to me

 

how the hell did you find that?!!?!? I can't get it to show up unless I punch in that part number specifically (EH0243)

 

:beerchug:

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I just looked up parts under 1988 jeep Cherokee 4.0 . I feel like there’s sometimes a better selection of parts if I look up a Cherokee instead of a Comanche . 

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You can also search for a PC307. 

 

The patch harness came out way before 1993. 

 

On a Renix, if you bypass the C101, you've done pretty much what needs done. 

 

RENIX CPS TESTING AND ADJUSTING

CPS drill mod

CPS location

Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.

Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.

The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.

Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS itself as shown in Figure 2 as Connector A, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.

You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.

If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from NAPA or the dealer.

Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.

A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8″ from the stock 5/16″, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.

Another little tip to save tons of aggravation is to stick a bit of electrical tape to your 11mm socket and then shove the bolt in after it. This reduces the chances of dropping that special bolt into the bell housing. CPS bolt socket

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You get more advance modding the stock CPS yourself,

 

RENIX CPS ADVANCE MOD

 

The sensor portion of the CPS needs to slide up the perforated bar towards the top of the engine.

Mark the perforated bar’s top end with paint or marker.

Place the CPS in a vice,  just not quite clamping the bar, the sensor resting on the vice jaws, with the Top part protruding.

Place a bolt that fits tightly into the hole at the Top part of the bar.

With a hammer, tap the Top part of the bar and it will slide through the sensor portion of the CPS. Stop when the sensor portion is about 3/8″ from the edge of the bolt hole.

CPS advance mod

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2 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

You get more advance modding the stock CPS yourself,

 

RENIX CPS ADVANCE MOD

 

The sensor portion of the CPS needs to slide up the perforated bar towards the top of the engine.

Mark the perforated bar’s top end with paint or marker.

Place the CPS in a vice,  just not quite clamping the bar, the sensor resting on the vice jaws, with the Top part protruding.

Place a bolt that fits tightly into the hole at the Top part of the bar.

With a hammer, tap the Top part of the bar and it will slide through the sensor portion of the CPS. Stop when the sensor portion is about 3/8″ from the edge of the bolt hole.

CPS advance mod

What do you think about the ntk cps ? Do you think it’ll be as reliable as a mopar cps ? I have a nos mopar cps as a spare but was wondering about the ntk since mopar has discontinued making the cps. 

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NTK is a solid brand, worth a try.

 

I have two NOS Mopar which are Seimens which are Renix...........won't touch those, too rare. If you're going to fiddle with one, I'd get the NTK. 

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