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4.6 Build


What color should I paint the motor?  

18 members have voted

  1. 1. What color should I paint the motor?

    • Blue
      4
    • Black
      6
    • Chromeish
      2
    • Orange
      6


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My truck's just a 4 banger 4 speed right now, but I'm planning and dropping 4.6 and AX-15 into it soon, only thing holding me back right now is the money.

 

Right now, I have a 92 4.0 from a scrapped XJ that still runs but it would be a good idea to rebuild it before going into a vehicle, so I might as well do the stroker. There was an AX-15 with it, but my brother accidently sold it (long story)

 

I also have the complete engine bay wiring harness and Computer from that truck

 

I have found sources for almost everything I need; Gasket set, Rockers, Pivots, Push Rods, Lifters, Cam (aftermarket from Summit.com Crane# CRN-753905), Cam Bearings, Timing Set, Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Connecting Rods, Pistons, Rings, Dist Cap and Rotor, Oil Pump and Strainer, and Headers.

 

Haven't gotten ahold of a 258 crank yet, or any machining estimates. Otherwise internally all I think I need to find yet is valve springs.

 

I'm sure a few out you guys out there have done this build, is there anything I need to know about it? i.e. I know the snout on the 258 crank will need to be machined down.

 

Can I use the injectors from the XJ's manifold?

 

With needing the crank machined will I need oversized main bearings?

 

Going from the 4 to 6 cylinder, will I need to worry about any wiring other than the injector harness?

 

What color should I paint the motor?

 

Where can I get a good price on an AX-15?

 

Can I put the T-case from that's attached to the BA 10/5 from my 88 XJ onto the AX-15?

 

Thanks for any help!

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I have herd nothing but bad things about crane cams. You should search through the jeeps unlimited speed freaks forum for stroker info. There is a guy there "Dino Savva" He knows alot about the 4.0 and building them. I remember reading that he had a Crane cam but a lobe or 2 went flat (seems to be a big problem with crane cams) and he went back to the orignal cam and he was happier with it's performance. I would take the money for the cam and spend it on the 1999+ intake manifold.

 

I just tore down a 4.0 and i found the cheapest gasket set at the dealer it was only like $52 part# p4529245 came with... Head, oil pan, timing cover, rear main seal, valve cover, oil pump, intake/exhaust, water pump gaskets. It was all Fel-pro stuff too... only thing it was missing was timing cover seal and thermostat housing gasket.

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IMHO, cam failures are almost always to do with improper break in or install. Crane has been making cams for a long time, and I've not heard of rampant failures with their other cams.

 

 

But, if a guy hates crane, there's other cams out there. And the right cam is always worth it in the power department.

 

 

And your older t-case won't bolt to a newer AX-15. Well, it might. But normally the input gear needs to be swapped because it'll have the wrong number of splines.

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I think it’s just the Jeep crane cams that are failing. The lobes are narrower than OEM cams and with stiffer springs and oil with hardly any Phosphurus/Zinc they fail. I started running STP oil treatment in my engines with flat tappet cams to get the Phosphurus/Zinc back the government regulations took out.

 

The Crane cam failures www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthrea ... =crane+cam

 

The Phosphurus/Zinc problem www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=923009

 

Phosphurus/Zinc Oil chart www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

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Join the yahoo strokers group! You will find many thousands of post of GREAT info about the Stroker.

 

As another poster has said, Dino is a great source of information. Check out all his posts. This guy is SMART and LEVEL headed. By profession, he is an M.D. Yes, that is a Doctor.

 

He also lives in the Gulf, so Jeep parts are not as easy to find as in the states.

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Haven't gotten ahold of a 258 crank yet, or any machining estimates. Otherwise internally all I think I need to find yet is valve springs.

 

For valve springs I recommend going to the Mopar Performance Catalog. They have excellent dual-coil valve springs for the 4.0L engine, and usually the stuff through the MPC is much cheaper than comparable parts through "name" companies.

 

I'm sure a few out you guys out there have done this build, is there anything I need to know about it? i.e. I know the snout on the 258 crank will need to be machined down.

 

Not necesarily. If the engine was set up for conventional vee belts, the snout will likely have to be cut. If the engine originally had a sepentine belt it won't have to be cut.

 

Can I use the injectors from the XJ's manifold?

 

Physically, yes. But they won't flow enough for a 4.6 with a cam, so you'll need injectors with more output.

 

With needing the crank machined will I need oversized main bearings?

 

Yes.

 

Going from the 4 to 6 cylinder, will I need to worry about any wiring other than the injector harness?

 

Yes. You said you have the entire harness for the "new" motor. You'll need it.

 

Can I put the T-case from that's attached to the BA 10/5 from my 88 XJ onto the AX-15?

 

No. The spline count on the transfer case input shaft is different. You'll need a transfer case from a '91 or newer.

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Wow, I didn't expect so much so soon, you guys are awesome

 

The motor from the 92 is an HO, so the injectors would be the HO injectors.

 

Also, since I'll be having the cylinders honed, would it be a good idea to just bore it out anyway?

 

My dad just happens to have a 91 XJ with the 4.0, so with any wiring I should be able to just make sure it looks just like his, right? As far as I knew everything in the engine bay between an XJ and MJ of the same year and options should be identical. Except he has AC, Cruise, and power locks/windows, wiper delay, I do not have any of those. The 92, the donor of the motor, did not have Cruise or PW/PL.

 

With stroking, camming and maybe boring it out, the computer from the donor 92 should still be useable, right?

 

I know it's a lot of questions but I want to get this done right.

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Well, .010'' pistons will work but if you might as well do .030'' so get more displacement and some more torque. plus if your boring/honing yourself then its not going to cost anything extra. if you really want to go all out you can go to a 4'' bore and use Chevy 350 pistons, (which are like free).

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I think .010 will be good, since I can't do the machining myself and I'm practically having nightmares over what it's gonna end up costing. Without purchasing a crank or machining, or anything to do with finding a tranny, I'm at about $1200 right now.

 

BUT, if you give me a rebuilt Ax-15, I promise I'll bore to 4" :brows:

 

On a seperate note: While I'm not a fan of the 4 door wranglers, the new Jeep commercial always makes me laugh when the truck goes up the snow halfpipe.

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With stroking, camming and maybe boring it out, the computer from the donor 92 should still be useable, right?

The computer will be fine, but I can almost guarantee that you WILL need larger injectors. The injectors in the "new" 4.0L engine are sized for ... a 4.0L engine. You're increasing it to 4.5 liters if you don't bore it, or 4.6 liters if you punch it .030 oversize (which you will probably need to do to get the cylinders round again). And then you're tossing in a cam that flows more volume on top of the displacement increase. I doubt the stock HO injectors can handle all that.

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Well, .010'' pistons will work but if you might as well do .030'' so get more displacement and some more torque. plus if your boring/honing yourself then its not going to cost anything extra. if you really want to go all out you can go to a 4'' bore and use Chevy 350 pistons, (which are like free).

DO NOT even consider going more than .060 over stock bore unless you have the block checked to be absolutely certain there was no "core shift" during casting. Otherwise, you risk breaking through into a water jacket, which would then mean either scrapping the block or sleeving it. Even if you can go to .090 over or 4.00 inches, that doesn't leave much metal for heat transfer and you'll get hot spots and cooling problems.

 

For all practical purposes, .060 over is the maximum for a useful stroker.

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Yeah I saw a lot of problems with getting the cylinders that close together, .010 over will be just fine.

 

Alright, another thing I thought of, when I get this all done and in the truck, would it be better to keep the 3.55 in the rear, or swap the 3.07s out of my cherokee axle in there? I am planning on lifting it eventually, and getting about 30 in tires on it, so I'm thinking I'll just keep the 3.55s and not bother changing it.

 

The other thing too is the 4x4 conversion. the front axle I have has 3.07s in it, so that will obviously have to be changed to 3.55s if I keep the gearing in the rear.

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Frequently it's cheaper to just go get a 3.55 front axle than to regear one. And 3.07 gears SUCK are to be avoided at all cost. :D

orly-mini.jpg

I just so happen to have a D30/35 combo of ring and pinions. I'm not sure I want to sell the 30 set yet, but the 35 set is up for grabs, cheap cheap!.

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