SBpunk Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 Just going to list off all the things I've done to resolve it. Started after I had the motor rebuilt. Everything following is added since then. Head gasket Head 3 different radiators including stock, csf 3 core aluminum and OE Multiple radiator caps including a special one needed for the csf radiator 2 Napa water pumps and a high flow Multiple 195 thermostats all tested prior to install including a Mopar one New hoses/clamps including heater core New over flow bottle and line New belt tightened to 200 per service manual Zj fan clutch and 2 xj fan clutches Later model xj fan Multiple sensors both front and back Multiple gauges even an aftermarket mechanical gauge (tested against an IR thermometer for accuracy) New a/c compressor 10w30 full synthetic oil New exhaust manifold/gasket tested for leaks and cracks. New exhaust everything actually. Coolant system was pressure tested and no leaks. Confirmed with UV dye. 50/50 coolant blend (even tried the additive once with extra mineral water) Anyway I'm sure I'm forgetting something. When it's 80+ my temp will sit at 195 to 210. After driving for more than 20m it'll gradually climb to the red. Electric fan is on a switch but working proper. Occurs even with the AC off but slower. Temps drop at high rpms but when I stop they shoot up higher than beforehand. I was thinking it was a fuel issue but my fuel rail is showing the correct pressure. All new rebuilt stock injectors just before the rebuild as well. Spark plugs are pretty new and not showing any signs of abnormality. New spark wires, distributor with rotor and cap. Only sign I'm getting of anything else wrong is a slightly shakey idle even after new motor/trans mounts. Reflects slightly in the tach but no codes. Basically everything mechanical on this is brand new with OE parts or better. I'm about a week away from pulling the bed and parting it out to recoup some of the cost. Retired so I'll be taking a hit on my paycheck and not going to keep dumping money into an endless black hole. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 No insult intended...but are you sure the water pumps you are putting on are spinning the right way?.....fast test pull the heater hose that comes out of the pump...use that hose or another..... Put the end of the hose in a pail and ask a helper to start the engine.....do you get a strong stream of water (fire hose strong)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted May 26, 2018 Author Share Posted May 26, 2018 None taken. Yup last two were tested and the hesco pump works perfectly. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 full fan shroud for the mech fan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 wait, there's not a chunk of rag stuck somewhere inside the block is there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted May 26, 2018 Author Share Posted May 26, 2018 Not since the rebuild anyway. Was torn down when the head gasket was replaced. The old radiator was in good condition just dirty. Fan shroud is still there also Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 could running lean cause it? how does it drive and feel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 You say "temps drop at high RPM's" What exactly does that mean? Is that high RPM's that relate to high(er) road speeds, or just higher engine speed? I ask because the engine will generate more heat at higher revs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted May 26, 2018 Author Share Posted May 26, 2018 Weak to be honest. Was thinking if it was there's too much heat causing the block to warm up faster. Pump is working at the correct pressure least by the fuel rail. Only thing I haven't done is tested the fuel injectors since the rebuild. Maybe some of the wires were broken and one isn't firing correctly.Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 You say "temps drop at high RPM's" What exactly does that mean? Is that high RPM's that relate to high(er) road speeds, or just higher engine speed? I ask because the engine will generate more heat at higher revs. Temp goes down when accelerating around town but pushing 3k rpms for a longer period of time it creeps back up. I haven't taken it far but doing 55 on one of the longer back roads (about 3 miles) I noticed it started rising. Off the stop signs it'll drop quite a bit. Eventually it'll stay above 220 or so even driving around town.Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 I have to run back into a no service area but I'll be back to responding soon. Out of town camping. Thanks everyone Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveevryjp1998 Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Have you done a compression test? Checked timing? It really sounds like an air locked coolant system. This is a 92 with an open? You still need to purge h.o.s of air its just much easier than a renix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 1 hour ago, SBpunk said: Electric fan is on a switch but working proper. Occurs even with the AC off but slower. Two questions: Could the switch be faulty and set to high? Does the fan run slower when the AC is off as compared to when the AC is on? Enjoy your camping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 Have you done a compression test? Checked timing? It really sounds like an air locked coolant system. This is a 92 with an open? You still need to purge h.o.s of air its just much easier than a renix. I have and the compression test came back normal. I don't have the numbers on me but they were almost all the same. I'll lift the cap side when I get back and run it a few times without the cap on. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 Two questions: Could the switch be faulty and set to high? Does the fan run slower when the AC is off as compared to when the AC is on? Enjoy your camping. My relay or switch is running a engine code so I put it on a manual switch. Ill check the speeds though. How would I go about fixing something like that? Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 What do the plugs look like? Cat or exhaust plugged? I know you said it's new, buuuuuut... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 What do the plugs look like? Cat or exhaust plugged? I know you said it's new, buuuuuut... No cat (I know illegal) but the rest is good. We tested it with smoke at Firestone off the books lol. Plugs looked brand new Monday when I pulled them to test spark. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Lower radiator hose isn't collapsing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 Lower radiator hose isn't collapsing? It's not. I made a spring for the new one just incase. On start up and idle revving to 4krpm in the driveway it's solid. Used some welding gloves to try and squeeze it at temp. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Try a restrictor like I did HERE, especially since you are using a Hesco hi-flow pump now. Easy to do and it really helped. I think I still have a couple laying around I can send you. Worth a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 Try a restrictor like I did HERE, especially since you are using a Hesco hi-flow pump now. Easy to do and it really helped. I think I still have a couple laying around I can send you. Worth a shot. Actually have one in from my last break down lol. Haven't tried the hesco without the restrictor in the lower hose though Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Oh well, it was the thought that counted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 54 minutes ago, SBpunk said: My relay or switch is running a engine code so I put it on a manual switch. Ill check the speeds though. How would I go about fixing something like that? I'd fix that DTC for the cooling fan and get away from that manual override switch. Which DTC is set? Maybe someone has the electrical wiring for your cooling fan set up. Also, the fan may seem to run slower because when the AC compressor kick on along with the cooling fan things can get noisy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 I'd fix that DTC for the cooling fan and get away from that manual override switch. Which DTC is set? Maybe someone has the electrical wiring for your cooling fan set up. Also, the fan may seem to run slower because when the AC compressor kick on along with the cooling fan things can get noisy. I've thrown in a fresh relay but no idea where the control unit is. I'd love to get rid of this stupid switch hahaha don't really do any water crossing after I sunk it a long time ago Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 41 minutes ago, Ωhm said: I'd fix that DTC for the cooling fan and get away from that manual override switch. Which DTC is set? Maybe someone has the electrical wiring for your cooling fan set up. Also, the fan may seem to run slower because when the AC compressor kick on along with the cooling fan things can get noisy. Every time you disconnect the fan switch on the thermostat housing it triggers the aux fan 22 code. For me the only way I could get rid of it was to run through the ECU residual memory dump procedure. And it not the manual switch causing it either. I've had an inline manual emergency override switch on my aux fan for years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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