dante2 Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 I finished up the WJ booster/MC upgrade and the lines to the prop valve. I also deleted the load sensing valve and line from the prop valve. Now bleeding the rear brakes is not a problem but the right front is not bleeding much fluid or air like the rear does. Am I missing something or do I need to start over with an XJ prop valve? If I need a new valve which year's do I need to use? Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 You should not be having any problems. The front brakes on the MJ are fed the same as on the XJ. The big difference is the second line to the rear. Did you replace the front flex hoses? If they're old, the inside may have deteriorated to the point that a flap of material is blocking the flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dante2 Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 I did not replace the front soft lines. When I first got the MJ the MC was leaking and I replaced it. I bled the brakes then and fluid came out just fine from that caliper. After further searching I did see that I bled the brakes wrong with the load sensing valve still hooked up. Braking did not improve due to a leaking booster (could hear a vacuum leak when braking). Went the WJ booster route and this is where I am at now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Disconnect the soft line from the caliper, have someone press the brake pedal to the floor. If stream is strong and clear...........that problem lies with the caliper or the bleeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Good time to replace the soft lines anyway. Have you removed that bleeder completely and checked for blockage? For those of you needing help bleeding brakes, check this out. http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dante2 Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Ok going to replace all of the probably original soft lines and flush the hard lines with some air. Hopefully that will take care of the brakes for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Ok going to replace all of the probably original soft lines and flush the hard lines with some air. Hopefully that will take care of the brakes for a while. what about removing and cleaning the bleeder orifices? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Good time to replace the soft lines anyway. Have you removed that bleeder completely and checked for blockage? For those of you needing help bleeding brakes, check this out. http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html I'm going to get me one of those since it's a pain waiting for my brothers to help me bleed brakes. They also don't pay attention when pressing the pedal so it's inconsistent... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dante2 Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Would it be safe to blow air through the disconnected line at the prop valve and out of the bleeder orifice, bleeder out? Or should I disconnect the hard lines then do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dante2 Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 what about removing and cleaning the bleeder orifices? Good idea I will add that to the list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dante2 Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Good time to replace the soft lines anyway. Have you removed that bleeder completely and checked for blockage? For those of you needing help bleeding brakes, check this out. http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html I'm going to get me one of those since it's a pain waiting for my brothers to help me bleed brakes. They also don't pay attention when pressing the pedal so it's inconsistent... I got a Mityvac kit at HF for about $35 dollars with a 20% off coupon. Works great when your doing brakes by yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Would it be safe to blow air through the disconnected line at the prop valve and out of the bleeder orifice, bleeder out? Or should I disconnect the hard lines then do it? I wouldn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dante2 Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 After several leaks and re-flares I finally got it finished. Stops better than my YJ on 31's. Thanks for the help and suggestions guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 Ends up mine has a blown rear wheel cylinder. Hopefully that's why I can't get the pedal to be stiff. Gotta get this sucker back going... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dante2 Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 Installed the new hoses and had to re-flare the rear line again on Tuesday. I got the brakes working much better after doing the hose into a bottle of brake fluid bleed. I will be revisiting the vacuum bleed to see if I have anymore air in the system. Thank you for the help everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dellstopjeep Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Speed bleeders. 10 bucks a set, easy one man job. Just crack open and pump brakes until your good to go Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Speed bleeders. 10 bucks a set, easy one man job. Just crack open and pump brakes until your good to go I have a set of these and have never installed them. From those of you that have used and/or are currently using them to bleed your brakes, what's your real world opinion on how efficiently they work? The old helper/pump/stop/hold/pump/etc. system is getting, well, old. I've searched and haven't found anything worthwhile here regarding using speed bleeders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Speed bleeders. 10 bucks a set, easy one man job. Just crack open and pump brakes until your good to go I have a set of these and have never installed them. From those of you that have used and/or are currently using them to bleed your brakes, what's your real world opinion on how efficiently they work? The old helper/pump/stop/hold/pump/etc. system is getting, well, old. I've searched and haven't found anything worthwhile here regarding using speed bleeders. I have not used the bleeders. However, since going to the mightyvac..............there is no other way. I clear my lines now when I bleed. You can pull an entire line through in 3-4 minutes by yourself.......only way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Thanks, but I'd like to hear about the speed bleeders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Thanks, but I'd like to hear about the speed bleeders. How many bleeders have you rounded off or broke in the last 30 years you've been wrenching? I have, plenty, in my more than 30 years of bleeding brakes, did so just 2 months ago. And you expect a check valve inside a bleeder to work 4 years from now? Gimmick. That's why I have no experience with them. I'm trying real hard to be positive. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dellstopjeep Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 I have only broken bleeders that have been installed for 15 years. I have never had a problem with speed bleeders and I have them for a long time. I also go thru and crack them open yearly so they don't freeze later. I don't find them to be a gimmick. They are cheap and just as good as normal bleeder screws in my opinion. But to each their own. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 HornbroD, like you, I have some speed bleeds in my box of "things to do." When I bought them, I was told the front and rear bleeders are different sizes. The guy at the counter (PepBoys) told me that there are none made for the rear brakes (D44 drums). I did not follow up with his comment. Are there speed bleeds available for a D44? or was the guy incoorrect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 I have a rear D44 but with Ford Explorer disks. The Ford caliper uses the same bleeder screw size as the front stock Jeep caliper. Also, according to the 87-90 parts manual, the front MJ/XJ bleeder screws are the same p/n as both the rear D35 and D44 rear wheel cylinder bleeder screws. So either the parts manual is incorrect, or your guy is incorrect Tim. My money's on the part manual being correct. :yes: I'm going to install my speed bleeders and see how they work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Let us know what you think of the speed bleeders Don. I don't always have an extra foot around to bleed brakes and I'd like to know if they're worth it vs. say a Mityvac. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Will do. Won't happen though until I have to open something up on the brake hydraulics somewhere. Everything be working fine at the moment unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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