Rear speakers

[DirtyComanche]

I'd like some good rear speakers to try to get my MJ's stereo to sound better.  Currently I have some Polk 6.5" coaxial in the doors, I don't know what's actually installed in the back but they don't seem too awesome.  I'm guessing they're low end Alpine to match what was in the doors.

 

I'm lead to believe that 6x9s will fit with minimal issues?

 

What's a good quality and intelligent choice speaker for the rear? 

 

Ideally I'd like to get a bit more bass out of the system.

[Eagle]

MJ rear speakers are either 4x6, or 4" round mounted on an oblong plate. Good luck fitting 6x9s unless you want to chop the cab framework.

[schardein]

_{All the factory brackets I've seen are for 4x6.  I put some low end Alpines back there (coincidence?) and I think they round out the system nicely.  They are covered by the rear pillar panels (there is a grill) and blocked by the seats, so I think one has to be reasonable in expectations.  I'm not into over the top stereos systems (anymore) but for a no compromise system some old school box speakers with woofer/mid/tweeter behind the seats might be the way to go.}

 

_{I've also got Alpine 5.25 in the stock location in the doors, a decent Kenwood head unit  https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KMBT318/Kenwood-KMM-BT318U.html?tp=5684&awkw=274635583599&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=168744391860&awdv=c&awug=9023661 , and one of those tiny Alpine amps http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ktp-445u/  Since the stereo is a "media player" and doesn't have a CD player, it isn't as "deep" as a regular stereo, and I was able to fit the amp behind the stereo (it's a tight fit)}

 

_{I'd like to have a powered subwoofer like   https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20611HS8/Kicker-11HS8.html  mounted behind the pass bucket seat on a custom mount that ties into the backerboard mounting holes on the floor (rather than just attached to the backer board) to round out my system.}

[Knucklehead97]

I have got a ported 10" Kicker sub behind the seats and I turned the rear speakers off through my radio. They started popping really bad before the sub and front speakers even got to a good volume. Currently the front speakers at 5.25 Kicker Coaxials. But they're fixing to be replaced by high level 6.5" Alpine component speakers ran off of a seperate amp.

[SVPete]

I recently put Boss Chaos 3-way speakers in the doors (5.25") and rear (4" x 6"). I'm happy....but understand my original door speakers were shot and the rear speakers were the originals also, but completely functional, so almost anything was going to be an improvement. $15 (and an extra $5 off, to make it $10) and $18 dollars, respectively, from Amazon for the speakers. I also installed a new Pioneer AM/FM/CD/BT/Media head unit from Amazon ($75). I can get some pretty good bass between all of them with the various adjustments which can be made via the radio.

 

At those prices, certainly not top of the line, but I just listen to the oldies (60's, 70's, 80's) driving to and from work. I'm not engaging in any stereo wars.

 

The front speakers are rated to 200 watts and the rears are rated at 250, if that means anything to you.

[Minuit]

I've seen a few people install 6x9s or 6-1/2s (if I was hacking on my truck to put bigger speakers back there they'd be 6-1/2s) but I've never seen it well done. Considering that rear speakers shouldn't really be prominent in the soundstage anyway, I'd be inclined to add an amplifier and/or sub first. I don't think you'd see too much benefit just from swapping the 4x6 rear speakers to 6x9s. There are amps out there that cost about what a set of good 6x9s would cost that would make a much bigger difference.

 

I generally recommend Polk Audio speakers, however I'd call them a little bright sometimes. Don't know why, but it seems like over the past couple of years my ears have become extremely sensitive to treble frequencies. Other people I install them for have no such complaints, so it's probably just me.

 

I have a factory 56002467 radio with aux in and stock size speakers with the same Alpine amplifier as schardein. My sound needs are more than met, but my goals are to have a stock appearance more than anything else. I couldn't stuff mine behind the radio, so it's behind the gauge cluster (about where the Renix ECU is located) with enough air around it so that heat shouldn't be a concern. Even with the limitations of the factory radio and speaker level inputs, the system has absolutely no trouble keeping up with my 77dB worth of highway noise.

 

If you want bass, add a sub. Considering that rear speakers shouldn't be prominent anyway, swapping out the rear speakers for something bigger isn't worth the hassle to me. A sub or an amp is a much better use of the money IMO.

[DirtyComanche]

If you want bass, add a sub. Considering that rear speakers shouldn't be prominent anyway, swapping out the rear speakers for something bigger isn't worth the hassle to me. A sub or an amp is a much better use of the money IMO.

 

I'm resistant to this only because of the loss of space associated with doing so.  I guess there might be some creative options for where to install an adequate sized sub and enclosure, more research would be needed.

 

I should pull my interior out and check what's in there either way.  I guess I could just try fading them out and letting the better Polks do the majority of the work too.

[DirtyComanche]

I also should probably order some sound deadening and pull the entire interior out and go to town with that.  Plus fix the door hinges and striker on the driver's door.  Cutting down the road noise would probably do wonders.

[Minuit]

 

If you want bass, add a sub. Considering that rear speakers shouldn't be prominent anyway, swapping out the rear speakers for something bigger isn't worth the hassle to me. A sub or an amp is a much better use of the money IMO.

 

I'm resistant to this only because of the loss of space associated with doing so.  I guess there might be some creative options for where to install an adequate sized sub and enclosure, more research would be needed.

 

I should pull my interior out and check what's in there either way.  I guess I could just try fading them out and letting the better Polks do the majority of the work too.

 

 

I agree on the sub, it takes up way too much of the MJ's meager dry storage space for me to bother. Adding an amp (even a small relatively cheap one) will give you some more bass to work with.

 

I don't know how much homework you've done on this so you may be aware of this already, but I wouldn't bother with adding a bunch of "sound deadener" like Dynamat and the others. It doesn't really stop sound from coming in, it just makes panels heavier to cut their resonant frequency. I put almost half of the "bulk pack" of Dynamat in my truck - on the floors, roof, doors, almost everywhere, and I was very disappointed. The only change I noticed was the doors made more of a "thunk" than a "clang" when closing them from the inside. No noticeable decrease in anything else. A much better way to go to cut road noise would be to add something like 1lb/sqft mass loaded vinyl below the glass line. A little more involved than rolling Dynamat everywhere, but it depends on how far you want to go.

[jerpderp]

Is anyone running a bazooka tube? They don't seem to have a great reputation, however I am curious on what real people think.

 

 

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[DirtyComanche]

 

 

If you want bass, add a sub. Considering that rear speakers shouldn't be prominent anyway, swapping out the rear speakers for something bigger isn't worth the hassle to me. A sub or an amp is a much better use of the money IMO.

 

I'm resistant to this only because of the loss of space associated with doing so.  I guess there might be some creative options for where to install an adequate sized sub and enclosure, more research would be needed.

 

I should pull my interior out and check what's in there either way.  I guess I could just try fading them out and letting the better Polks do the majority of the work too.

 

 

I agree on the sub, it takes up way too much of the MJ's meager dry storage space for me to bother. Adding an amp (even a small relatively cheap one) will give you some more bass to work with.

 

I don't know how much homework you've done on this so you may be aware of this already, but I wouldn't bother with adding a bunch of "sound deadener" like Dynamat and the others. It doesn't really stop sound from coming in, it just makes panels heavier to cut their resonant frequency. I put almost half of the "bulk pack" of Dynamat in my truck - on the floors, roof, doors, almost everywhere, and I was very disappointed. The only change I noticed was the doors made more of a "thunk" than a "clang" when closing them from the inside. No noticeable decrease in anything else. A much better way to go to cut road noise would be to add something like 1lb/sqft mass loaded vinyl below the glass line. A little more involved than rolling Dynamat everywhere, but it depends on how far you want to go.

 

 

Yeah, I'm aware the Dynamat type products don't really do a lot.  I haven't done much research on it and wouldn't go ordering anything willynilly.

 

I'm guessing this stuff is what you're talking about? https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Vinyl-Square-Acoustic-Barrier/dp/B007N3356S

 

Fixing my door hinges and seals would probably be the most bang for the buck starting point...  Or even going to new style doors with the one piece glass as they seem to seal better in regards to the window.

[Minuit]

Yeah, something like that. I found that making my doors seal up tight made a huge difference. The triangle windows pivoting or not are a big cause of noise too. If they don't fit perfectly they like to whistle.

 

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[johnj92131]

 

 

 

If you want bass, add a sub. Considering that rear speakers shouldn't be prominent anyway, swapping out the rear speakers for something bigger isn't worth the hassle to me. A sub or an amp is a much better use of the money IMO.

 

I'm resistant to this only because of the loss of space associated with doing so.  I guess there might be some creative options for where to install an adequate sized sub and enclosure, more research would be needed.

 

I should pull my interior out and check what's in there either way.  I guess I could just try fading them out and letting the better Polks do the majority of the work too.

 

 

I agree on the sub, it takes up way too much of the MJ's meager dry storage space for me to bother. Adding an amp (even a small relatively cheap one) will give you some more bass to work with.

 

I don't know how much homework you've done on this so you may be aware of this already, but I wouldn't bother with adding a bunch of "sound deadener" like Dynamat and the others. It doesn't really stop sound from coming in, it just makes panels heavier to cut their resonant frequency. I put almost half of the "bulk pack" of Dynamat in my truck - on the floors, roof, doors, almost everywhere, and I was very disappointed. The only change I noticed was the doors made more of a "thunk" than a "clang" when closing them from the inside. No noticeable decrease in anything else. A much better way to go to cut road noise would be to add something like 1lb/sqft mass loaded vinyl below the glass line. A little more involved than rolling Dynamat everywhere, but it depends on how far you want to go.

 

 

Yeah, I'm aware the Dynamat type products don't really do a lot.  I haven't done much research on it and wouldn't go ordering anything willynilly.

 

I'm guessing this stuff is what you're talking about? https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Vinyl-Square-Acoustic-Barrier/dp/B007N3356S

 

Fixing my door hinges and seals would probably be the most bang for the buck starting point...  Or even going to new style doors with the one piece glass as they seem to seal better in regards to the window.

 

 

As part of your research, have you read this site:

 

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

When I ever get around to quieting down a car or truck, I suspect this will be my guide and purchase point.  I like the low key, informative approach.  He even has a bill of material for a Cherokee XJ broken down by areas.  That should be useful for an MJ also..

 

I also agree the new style doors are better at reducing sound.  The factory paid some additional attention to this issue with the 1997 update as part of the over all NVH reduction process.  The 1997 under hood sound pad does a much better job than the earlier under sound pad.

 

One of the biggest noise sources in the Comanche is the tire/road noise.  Most likely transmitted thru the wheel wells.  Changing to low road noise tires would be a big impact.  There are some things you can to to block the tire/road noise in the wheel well area also.

[DirtyComanche]

As part of your research, have you read this site:

 

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

When I ever get around to quieting down a car or truck, I suspect this will be my guide and purchase point.  I like the low key, informative approach.  He even has a bill of material for a Cherokee XJ broken down by areas.  That should be useful for an MJ also..

 

I also agree the new style doors are better at reducing sound.  The factory paid some additional attention to this issue with the 1997 update as part of the over all NVH reduction process.  The 1997 under hood sound pad does a much better job than the earlier under sound pad.

 

One of the biggest noise sources in the Comanche is the tire/road noise.  Most likely transmitted thru the wheel wells.  Changing to low road noise tires would be a big impact.  There are some things you can to to block the tire/road noise in the wheel well area also.

 

Thanks for the link.  That's very informative.