SBpunk Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 Empty Post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 This doesn't address the fact that this leaves you without a proportioning valve. If for some reason you have a leak in the rear line, or the front lines, you LOSE ALL BRAKING. I personally run an XJ block with ZJ innards. Yes, they can sometimes get clogged, but mostly due to neglect. I'd rather have that potential issue than no brakes at all. Otherwise, nice write-up and pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 I've never read anything about that in the forums. Still new to it just going off the info I've pieced together from the folks here. I'll look more into it and see what I can find Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 So read some bad info and hadn't got around to plunging the rear line yet. The line your going to use to go to the soft lines needs to have a new fitting. You have a couple options here. You can either get a 7/16 to 3/8 adapter but this adds another failure / leak point Purchase a new double flared 3/8 brake line fitting, cut the line, add new fitting, reflare it Lastly what I plan on doing is use the old fitting (mine was still in good shape) and use it on the correct line Here is the fitting I'll be re using. It was the one that originally went into the soft line from the "T" removed during the previous steps. You'll cut the end of this line, the one you'll be running into the soft line, and adding the 3/8 brake line fitting. Flare the end using a double flare and tighten it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 Indexed into the DIY Master Search List under "Brakes". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omega_rugal Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 there`s something i still don`t get about this infamous valve when the bed drops due a load, you get more pressure in the rear brake lines, but what happens with the front brakes? do they get the same pressure or less than normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKelly95 Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 I recently did a SOA swap in the rear an disconnected the valve where it connected to the diff and mistakenly lost that rod. What kind of issues am I going to face without it properly hooked up or "bypassed" as you showed how to do? (I have yet to drive it since doing the soa) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 If the lever's dangling loose, you'll effectively have no rear brakes. Wiring it up in position (probably somewhere around horizontal or slightly above, 3 o'clock when looking from behind) will restore brakes. You can adjust it up and down to pick an optimal bias point as well. There's also a DIY somewhere about making a new vertical rod if you wanted to go that route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKelly95 Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Thanks for the quick response. When you say wiring it up in position how do you suggest doing so? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKelly95 Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Scratch that, I think I have an idea although i'm not sure if I still have the tab that connected the rod to the valve so it looks like I'll go the route shown in the writeup to bypass it altogether. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Run a loop of wire around the horizontal bar and hang it from something. The brake line right there is the most obvious spot to hang it from but probably not the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 Take a coat hanger or thin wire even speaker cord. Think 550 cord will work. Anyway.... Or you can send me a msg with your mailing address and u can send you mine when I find it hahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 I can send you mine. Sorry auto correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKelly95 Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 I appreciate it man. These brakes are the only thing standing between me and wheeling the jeep after working on the lift for 3 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 If you've got a lift installed, the factory rod will likely be too short. You can always make your own. http://comancheclub.com/topic/16955-adjustable-mj-load-sensing-valve/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerpderp Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 When I deleted my valve, I also installed a new rear hose. Somehow I got lucky and bought one from NAPA that had the correct 7/16 fitting. I believe it's from a 1990 Chev 1500. NAPA P/N 38624. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WyoCherokee Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 When I deleted my valve, I also installed a new rear hose. Somehow I got lucky and bought one from NAPA that had the correct 7/16 fitting. I believe it's from a 1990 Chev 1500. NAPA P/N 38624. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk hmmm. i will give this a shot. I hate reflaring brake lines. THe idea of using the existing 7/16 fitting entrigues me! Napa Link: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBK38624?ref=Mg== Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 I ended up going with a dodge truck rear brakeline or something along those lines so I'd have a little more play. Honestly was a pain at first but practiced a few times on the line I ripped out. Got it to were it would hold and took it to the shop down the road. All he did was look at it, tighten it down a bit and tell me it was a good flare. Easy money. Used a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes and been working great ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WyoCherokee Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 I did find some 7/16 to 3/8's adaptors, but i would rather just use the existing nut right into the line: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/IFM-to-IFF-Adapters,6458.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 Thought about that but more points for failure. Figured with a pressurized brake system the less the better. Deleting the valve got rid of a few. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerpderp Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Its been a while since I've been on here, but here's a pic of the Chev hose installed. I just tweaked/twisted the hard line to get where it needed to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WyoCherokee Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Maybe these will Help folks. i spent the Evening tracing lines from the Distribution block to the rear axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 just curious as to what the pros/cons are of deleting this. My mj has the valve in the back but the connecting rod was missing from the d35. I also have no idea if it is in working condition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Use tiewraps or a piece of wire to hold the LSV arm in a horizontal position slightly above parallel with the axle. Then go test your brakes and see if there is any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WyoCherokee Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 I made this write up over on CF. At the time, CC was in the middle of a website update, so it was easier to do the write-up over there. Link is below. Hopefully i spelled everything out in layman terms. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f88/load-sensing-valve-delete-supplement-242245/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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