jeepjack54 Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 I am getting ready to do an 8.8 swap SOA and lift on my 91' Comanche Pioneer. I have one final question before I finalize my parts list. I have looked through the 2 budget lift topics on the DIY Projects page and found that they only mention upgrading the trac bar...is this really all that needs addressing? What about Tie Rod & Draglink? I am planning on running 5.5" of lift and 32" tires. Won't be off-roading her hard. Mainly being built as a hunting truck. Btw the 2 lists I looked through can be found here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/43844-the-diy-700-off-road-capable-soa/ http://www.nonamestudios.com/experimentalinsanity.com/vehicle/resources/mj-lift.html Thanks, Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 I'm running the stock steering for now, on 31's. It, too, is lifted 5.5" with an SOA 8.8. On my XJ, I run IRO OTK steering with 33's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 I got stock steering with 5.5 inches of lift and 33s. I go wheelin every so often and never have had any problems on or off road Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 I had 32s on 4.5" of lift with stock steering for a while. No hard core wheeling done, Just moderate, but never had problems. The stock stuff was wore out though, needed new tie rod ends ect. Instead of replacing it with stock I got the Serious Offroad UTK 1-ton steering. Very happy with it beside the fact that it doesn't allow the clearance needed for a aftermarket diff cover. I now have 9.5" of lift and 35s with the same steering. I have just drove it around the block a couple of times though cause I haven't got it insured and registered yet. However it works great, other than the stock power steering really struggles with the 35s... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 I have roughly that height with v8 ZJ steering, same TRE, but beefier tie rod. No issues, however I've been looking into a drop pitman arm. I hear mixed reviews of them, from tightening the steering to near stock, to so much bump steer it's dangerous. Anyone have any input? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 How's the drag link / track bar geometry? Nearly parallel like below? If so, I would leave it alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4.0forlife Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 i have 5.5 inches of lift on factory steering but it looks like my drag link ever so slightly rubs the sway bar link perch on the axle. anyone else run into that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Stock steering works fine but the beefier V8 ZJ tre mentioned above is a skid upgrade for strength Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MancheKid86 Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 THIS you can say all you want that it works fine, but if your geometry isnt parallel, then it isnt set up properly you won't notice offroad (unless going highspeeds) onroad, if it isnt parallel, then it will induce bump steer How's the drag link / track bar geometry? Nearly parallel like below? If so, I would leave it alone. ALSO, v8 ZJ tierod assembly is a GREAT upgrade, but, v8 ZJ drag link will not work, JSYK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckwheat Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 ALSO, v8 ZJ tierod assembly is a GREAT upgrade, but, v8 ZJ drag link will not work, JSYK I call BS. I have the complete steering from a V8 ZJ on my truck right now. Works great and is larger than stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 IMHO it's worthwhile to flip the TRE on the driver's side at that height. Otherwise, yeah, V8 ZJ stuff should be good enough for mild usages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 IMHO it's worthwhile to flip the TRE on the driver's side at that height. Otherwise, yeah, V8 ZJ stuff should be good enough for mild usages. How do you go about flipping the TRE? Pictures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 IMHO it's worthwhile to flip the TRE on the driver's side at that height. Otherwise, yeah, V8 ZJ stuff should be good enough for mild usages. How do you go about flipping the TRE? Pictures? Drill the knuckle out and install one of these: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=143_209&products_id=1961 They're available elsewhere (Ruffstuff), but that's one of the better ones as it's a full circle with a nice lip on it so it's easy to weld in. Note, these aren't legal in all jurisdictions as they have to be welded in. Do it cleanly and nobody will know it's there. Up to you, but they will raise the tie rod by 3" or so, and it makes a big difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Also, you can actually just ream the knuckle from the top down with a morse taper reamer, but you will have to go up to a '1-ton' TRE and make the entire tie rod from scratch, plus ream the drag link or find the correct metric tap. More work, doesn't really make sense, but you can actually build the entire thing with zero welded components if that's a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Also, you can actually just ream the knuckle from the top down with a morse taper reamer, but you will have to go up to a '1-ton' TRE and make the entire tie rod from scratch, plus ream the drag link or find the correct metric tap. More work, doesn't really make sense, but you can actually build the entire thing with zero welded components if that's a problem. It makes sense if you want beefier TRE's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Also, you can actually just ream the knuckle from the top down with a morse taper reamer, but you will have to go up to a '1-ton' TRE and make the entire tie rod from scratch, plus ream the drag link or find the correct metric tap. More work, doesn't really make sense, but you can actually build the entire thing with zero welded components if that's a problem. It makes sense if you want beefier TRE's. Yes, but at that point you probably want to go to a different drag link and probably a WJ knuckle. Suddenly its not so simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MancheKid86 Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 ALSO, v8 ZJ tierod assembly is a GREAT upgrade, but, v8 ZJ drag link will not work, JSYK I call BS. I have the complete steering from a V8 ZJ on my truck right now. Works great and is larger than stock. Also, you can actually just ream the knuckle from the top down with a morse taper reamer, but you will have to go up to a '1-ton' TRE and make the entire tie rod from scratch, plus ream the drag link or find the correct metric tap. More work, doesn't really make sense, but you can actually build the entire thing with zero welded components if that's a problem. It makes sense if you want beefier TRE's. Yes, but at that point you probably want to go to a different drag link and probably a WJ knuckle. Suddenly its not so simple. THIS is what i was talking about, not the tierod assy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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