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PROJECT BUDGET MANCHE - Now on 35's!


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u have short arms up front??

 

looks great...keep up the great work

For the time being, yes. Extended uppers and lowers made for 6.5" springs.

 

I do plan on going longarmed over the winter. I've waited for 3 reasons;

 

1) Have a set budget to build this in, and longarms would of not let me do other things I've wanted to.

 

2) Time. I needed to have this done in time for the GLXJ summer wheeling fest @ the Badlands.

 

3) I have a D44 that I plan on putting in the front over the winter. Figured I'd wait untill I swap that in to decide what I'm going to do.

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If I was going to do it I was planning on using rears on the front, as I just don't like the looks of the front TJ flares on the XJ/MJ's.

 

I'll let you know on yours. I havn't decided what I want to do yet. I'll PM you before the Badlands and let ya know.

 

ok

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I really like the looks of this truck. The 35s really don't look too big, and I like the narrower tire on there.

 

I picked up a set of used 35" Goodyear MT-Rs for my Ranger, but think they are going to look really big on it. Now I might save them for the MJ I am getting...

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not bein a jerk but those u-bolt clamps/shock posts w/e i forgot what their called on the rear axle you put them on the bottom....looks like it could get hung up easy

It was either on the bottom or on the top. I opted for on the bottom so I could run a longer length shock. I'd rather take the risk of them getting possibly hung up than having my shocks be my limiting factor for flex.

 

The ideal location is on the same plane as the axle tube itself. However having time being a factor and not really wanting to put any $$ into this axle when it will be pulled out over the winter, I opted for a bolt on application for now.

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Got a little bit done today.

 

Painted the frame rails black to get rid of all the red. It looks a lot better.

 

I also trimmed up the front flare a bit and trimmed the lower part of the fender. It should give me a bit more clearance at full lock.

 

100_1411.jpg

 

I than worked on the vacuum disco on the front D30. I tore it apart with went surprisingly easy compared to when I did this on my XJ.

 

100_1412.jpg

 

I than put in a nut to hold the selector fork over permanently now. You can see it in this pic.

 

100_1413.jpg

 

I than relocated my rear brake line down further. I had planned on putting in a longer rear brakeline, but while looking at it, I thought I could just relocate it down lower. I drilled out one of the holes on the mounting bracket a bit larger and than just utilized an existing bolt on the rear proportioning valve holder.

 

100_1416.jpg

 

More work to come...

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hey, what did you do with the e-brake lines to keep them off the exhaust?

 

that is a shortbed right?

 

I'm running into an issue with that on my shortbed...they have to be there or I can't drive it legally on the road.

What exhaust? :roll:

 

PO had it cut right after the cat. I plan on putting on a muffler directly after it to keep the sound down.

 

That being said, I don't really have an exhaust pipe going out the back to worry about. Not sure what to tell ya...

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hey, what did you do with the e-brake lines to keep them off the exhaust?

 

that is a shortbed right?

 

I'm running into an issue with that on my shortbed...they have to be there or I can't drive it legally on the road.

 

You could dump your exhaust before the rear axel.

 

 

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I like my stock exhaust...

 

and I have enough of a traffic record at the moment that police contact is a bad thing...I think I want quieter exhaust.

 

oh, testing stations here won't test your car unless it comes out behind the tire and when I say out, I mean OUT from underneath the vehicle...

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My 90 Ranger has a Flowmaster 40 turned down in front of the axle. It sounds real nice, for a 4 banger... Yup, sounds real nice.

 

OK, sounds better than the 36" long 2.5" ID Cherry Bomb I had on my old V6 minivan. THAT was loud.

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can't beleive you rattle can the whole thing. looks good.

My 86 was all rattle canned too. Now that I've successfully temporarily hijacked the thread, I'll get back to it. Nice looking MJ, and I can't wait to see it at the 'lands. Making a lot of progress so far.

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Today's progress...

 

Got the "JEEP" flat black decals on the rear tailgate. I think it really sets it off well.

 

100_1418.jpg

 

The rest of the day was spent fabbing up the mounts for the tow bar. 95% done, just need to make up a center support that will tie into the lower radiator support. It's not needed, but just for a little extra security. The current setup ties into the tow hook brackets and bumper. Held on by 5 bolts on each side. I don't think it's coming off.

 

Here is a pic of the towbar mounted.

 

100_1419.jpg

 

100_1420.jpg

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Lucky... :roll:

 

I want a tow bar! Was it a kit or all home brewed?

 

BTW what happened to your passenger side frame rail? I don't remeber it being twisted up like that? :eek:

It's the bumper mount and yes it was all twisted prior. I don't have time to fab up a rear bumper yet, so I'm just going to leave them and "hope" it helps protect the rear a bit while wheeling next weekend.

 

The tow bar itself was pre-bought. I fabbed up the mounts and supports myself.

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hey, what did you do for your driveshaft.

 

I've SOA'd mine today and the yoke is slipped pretty far out...I don't trust it to stay in at attica and now I'm leaning towards not going since having a new one fabbed at the moment is outta my price range.

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hey, what did you do for your driveshaft.

 

I've SOA'd mine today and the yoke is slipped pretty far out...I don't trust it to stay in at attica and now I'm leaning towards not going since having a new one fabbed at the moment is outta my price range.

Get a chebby van driveshaft (much longer than needed) grind your welds off your yokes, and cut the chebby's ends right off, at a perfect 90* cut. Weld in your yokes, and make it the length you need. great trail shaft, and getting it balanced should be relatively cheap. The Chebby's tube is slightly thicker, but the correct inside diameter as what you need. It's what I'm doing for mine.
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hey, what did you do for your driveshaft.

 

I've SOA'd mine today and the yoke is slipped pretty far out...I don't trust it to stay in at attica and now I'm leaning towards not going since having a new one fabbed at the moment is outta my price range.

I havn't address it at all. I'm actually not worried about it. It's slipped out some, but not enough to worry me.

 

If I run into a problem with it I have a 2nd driveshaft and probably enough misc. parts to piece something together to get off the trail. Last trip to the Badlands I trashed the DS in my XJ (due to the power of climbing a rock wall with 35's and a almost 300HP stroker); and I doubt lightning will strike me twice (I hope).

 

EDIT: I'll measure how much is actually attached to the yoke tomorrow and report back. If it's less than desired I'll probably do a TC drop for the time being.

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yeah, I'm just concerned that what I have won't work.

 

I am doing a traditional SOA with welding and new spring perches...so I have to set pinion angle myself and it needs to be good. which means I really can't set it until the transmission is in the desired location...

 

so in the morning I will be fabbing up my tranny drop brackets out of some 2" tubing for now...I don't really wanna drop it that far but it will help my front driveshaft too so....

 

problem will then become the t-case linkage.

 

always something...

 

anywho, let me know

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you know you're technicall supposed to pull both driveshafts or something like that to flat tow one right?

yes. or have the t-case and transmission in neutral (for SHORT tows).

 

if you've done a bit of work to your rig, pulling the d-shaft is easy.

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