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AW4 Automatic to AX15 Manual Swap

joester1908
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joester1908 Comanche Aficionado

joester1908

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Posted

I know there are a few other threads on this forum regarding this topic, but I did take a lot of photos, and this is how I went about it. This thread is going to be geared toward swapping in an AX15, but the information is relevant for other manual transmissions that came in XJs/MJs.

 

Before we get started:

  1. This is going in to a Comanche. It is the same for Cherokees. 
  2. If you have a long arm kit, some of the information may be a little bit off, but it is the same idea. (see the transmission install)
  3. Ignore all the random wiring. I was wiring in switches and stereo equipment while doing this swap

 

What you will need: 

  • Transmission 
  • Correct spline transfer case 
  • Clutch pedal
  • Manual brake pedal
  • Manual steering column
  • Manual cross member
  • Manual floor pan 
  • Lower shift boot (I recommend TJ)
  • Upper shift boot
  • Manual front and rear drivelines
  • Master cyl bracket
  • Clutch kit (disk, pressure plate,throw-out bearing, pilot bearing)
  • Manual flywheel - correct one for your year (see flywheel installation)
  • Slave and master assembly 

The Process:

 

Section one: Start in the interior

 

1) Pull the lower dash panel off so you have room to work.

2) Uninstall your brake pedal. There is a long bolt (I want to say 15mm or 18mm) that goes in to the bracket on the top side. You also have to uninstall it from the booster.

3) Disconnect your brake light switch 

4) Take out the 4 13mm bolts that hold on your brake booster, but keep them threaded on the ends. You aren't uninstalling the whole thing, you just need to get behind it.

 

Now, you should have something that looks like this. There is a rubber mat that you have to pull out of the way. 

 

5) Test fit the master bracket. It bolts to the end of the clutch pedal bracket.

6) Time to drill out the firewall. On the outside of the firewall, there are 3 dimples that guide you where to drill. As you can see, there is plenty of room to get in there even with the booster installed. My drilling was slightly off, but it ended up working out just fine. Next you need a hole saw that is the diameter of the master. 

7) Once that is drilled out, install the bracket under the dash, to where the bottom stud comes out of the bottom hole. Installation at this point is very self explanatory. Here it is all installed. 

8) Tuck the hydraulic lines behind the brake booster and under the lip of the firewall, letting the slave cylinder (assuming it's all pre bled and assembled) dangle in the engine compartment. This is the reason you needed to uninstall the bolts.

9) Get back under your dash.

10) Install the 4 13mm bolts in the booster, being sure there is plenty of clearance for the hydraulic lines that go to the slave. 

11) Swap in your clutch pedal and brake pedal, along with the bolt that goes through both pedals and the bracket. 

 

Note* Apparently, there is a difference between the manual accelerator pedal and the automatic accelerator pedal. I am using the automatic one with no issues.

 

12) Connect your brake pedal to the booster and install the brake light switch. Remember the plastic washer. I know it's not the best picture, but its tight up there. 

13) The clutch pedal has an ear on it that will connect to the master. There is a pin and a plastic washer if I remember correctly. A little but of grease may be a good idea. If it gets old and dry your clutch pedal may squeak.

And now you're done with the first step! Once that is all installed and all the bolts are tight, move on to the steering column.

Steering column: Good luck!

 

The steering column is the least fun part of this whole thing, that's why you should just get it over with. The reason you have to swap the column is that the manual Jeeps have a key lock switch. You have to press the switch to get the key out. In my case, I had a column shifter and it would be useless. So while you have your dash apart, just tackle it. You have to take off the bezel around the instrument cluster, so if your PRND indicator is in your cluster like mine was, this is also the time to swap that out. If you have to swap over a steering wheel, remove that before you remove the column for ease. Sorry I didn't take a whole lot of pictures of this process.

 

1) Remove the exposed plugs on the column. There are a couple that seem impossible to get to, but they give you enough slack to disconnect them once the column drops out. Just get the ones on the side of the column for now.

2) Remove the bolts from the firewall. There are a couple of bolts that hold the bottom of the column to the firewall. 

3) Remove the 13mm steering shaft bolt from the steering box

4) Remove the 2 vertical bolts on the bottom side of the console that hold it in place. There is bracketry that comes from the trans tunnel and the kick panel that supports the column. I remember having to wrestle it free a little bit.

5) Now, your column should be hanging down, exposing the remaining connectors. Now your column should be free. Go out to your steering box and use a screw driver to give the steering shaft a nudge towards the cab of the vehicle. It may be a little tight on the steering input shaft of your box.

6) Put your new column through the hole in the firewall. This may take 2 people, and uninstalling the steering shaft before you complete this task may make it easier if you are by yourself. 

7) If I remember correctly, I held the column in place while connecting the plugs. Then I got it back on top off the brackets and just finger tightened the 2 vertical bolts. After that was complete, I installed the steering shaft on the box, allowing the column to slide in to place completely. 

8) Tighten the bolts on the firewall

9) Tighten the 2 vertical bolts for the column support

10) Plug in the remaining plugs on the side of the column. 

11) Reinstall dash trim and/or cluster if necessary. 

 

Note* If you have the column shift MJ, you have a shifter cable that runs behind the dash. Disconnect that and throw it out. 

 

Anyways, here's how it looked with the new column.

 

This was my old tach. It was definitely customized. 

 

And here's the new, all installed.

 

Now, it's time to reinstall the old steering wheel. If you aren't swapping a steering wheel over, just go down to the next section, center console. 

1) If your steering wheel is like the one pictured, remove the 2 rear bolts. exposing the center nut. 

There are 2 connectors for the horn. Disconnect them.

2) Use a steering wheel puller to uninstall your old wheel

3) Change out the pin for the horn if necessary 

4) install new wheel 

5) Reinstall the trim. On this style wheel, it just pops on.

 

 

Center console and shift boots:

1) uninstall your center console completely. There are 2 screws that hold on the black, center piece of the console under the lid. If you have a floor shifter, you need to pop the PRND thing off (it just snaps in) and I'm pretty sure the handle of the shifter has to come off too. Once you uninstall that, there are 2 screws inside the actual console itself. Then, there is 1 screw near the E brake (If it is console mounted, not floor) and one near the automatic trans shifter. Lastly, there is 1 screw under the trim of the 4wd selector. 

2) After your entire console is out, you need to swap over the hole in your floor pan. I had a column shift MJ, so it was just a blank pan. If you have a floor shifter, you have to take off that linkage before taking out the cover. When you take off the cover, this is what it will look like. There are around 10 8mm self tappers.

3) Install the manual trans cover. 

This is what your shift boot will connect to. I used one from a TJ because I couldn't find an XJ one that was in good shape. Don't install it yet. I know there is no transmission in that photo, but that's because this Jeep was pretty much just a shell at this point.

4) Reinstall your center console, leaving the oval shape hole in your floor exposed.

 

Section 2: Uninstall your automatic transmission:

 

Part one: Accessories

 

BEFORE YOU BEGIN, APPLY PARKING BRAKE 

 

1) Disconnect your kick down cable from your throttle body and off the side of the transmission. It is hooked to the throttle body. Don't worry about taking it off the transmission. It's coming out anyways.

2) Uninstall your neutral safety switch wiring. There is a white and a black plug on the harness that runs on the seam of your firewall. This is what they look like.

3) Uninstall the automatic trans lines

4) BLOCK FRONT AND REAR TIRES SO THE VEHICLE WILL NOT ROLL FORWARDS OR BACKWARDS. IN BOLD AND CAPS BECAUSE THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT I HAVE HEARD OF HAPPENING. YOU WILL BE REMOVING YOUR TRANSMISSION AND DRIVELINES, ONLY LEAVING YOUR PARKING BRAKE TO HOLD THE VEHICLE. PLEASE REMEMBER THIS STEP FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY.

5) Remove both front and rear drivelines. When you are selecting drivelines to replace your stock ones with, you need to take in to account which axles you have. If you have a Dana 35 in the rear, you need to get a manual driveshaft for a Dana 35. If you try using one from an 8.25, the shaft length may not be correct. Removing them now will give you time to figure out exactly what length you will need. 

6) Disconnect transfer case linkage

7) Using a floor jack, put pressure on the seam between the transfer case and transmission. you need to take the tension off your cross member. The jack isn't lifting, just holding. 

8) CAREFULLY, remove the transmission mount bolts that can be accessed with holes cut inside the cross member. 

9) CAREFULLY, remove the 2 bolts on either side of your cross member. The weight of the transmission and T case should be on the jack now, and your cross member should just come right out. 

10) Your exhaust hanger bracket is mounted to the side of your transmission. You may have to swap that around too. Pull the bolts out and let it hang off the exhaust.

11) Remove the bolts from the bell housing, including your starter. Because the weight is on the jack, you can lower it down to give you a little bit more room.

12) The top 2 bolts of the bell housing are inverted torx. I recommend using about 3 feet of extensions.

13) Once your bell housing bolts are removed, you can remove the automatic transmission and the transfer case attached to it. This is easiest done with 2 people. Just be careful, communicate, and don't be directly under the transmission, obviously. 

 

Swapping in the manual components:

 

1) Now that your transmission is removed, you will see your old flywheel. Remove the 6 bolts that hold it on. An impact is the easiest way, but it can be done with a dead blow and a breaker bar. 

2) Before you can install your new flywheel, you must change out the pilot bearing in your engine. It is a needle type bearing that is pressed in to the rear of the crankshaft. It is a pain to get out, but with a bearing puller it is a breeze. This is a small bearing that should come in your clutch kit. If you do not have access to a puller, you can pack the area behind the bearing with grease, then use a rod that is slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the bearing and tap it in. The pressure should pop the bearing out. You also need to change out the "spacer plate" for one without the inspection cover.

3) Once installed, you must install your manual flywheel. It is very important you get the flywheel for your year of Jeep. They did change throughout the years, and your CPS will not read correctly if you do not get the correct flywheel. I recommend getting a brand new one. They are cheap. 

3) Torque the flywheel bolts to the recommended spec. If you do not have a shop manual, I highly recommend getting one. According to the shop manual I keep on my coffee table, the flywheel bolts should be 105 ft/lbs. I installed mine while my engine was out...

4) Next, you need to install the pressure plate to the flywheel. 40 ft/lbs.

5) I won't get in to the installment of the clutch, that can be found many places online, including use of the supplied alignment tool. 

6) Now that your transmission is ready to go in, lets take a break and talk about what transmission is actually going in to your vehicle.

 

You have a few options when it comes to transmissions. 1987-1989.5 with the 4.0L used a Peugeot BA10. Its 4 cylinder, little brother is the BA5. I have personally owned a Jeep with this transmission. Many people will tell you that it is a terrible transmission and should be thrown out immediately. If you plan on running large tires, doing any sort of off road use, or hard shifting, I agree. I personally think if you're going through all this trouble you should put a stout transmission in. 

 

The AX15 (4.0L) and the AX5 (2.5L)  are much better options. They are a good, reliable transmission. They are plentiful and not overly priced. If you get a 1989.5-1994 model, they are internal slave cylinder. I would like to point out that there is nothing wrong with this transmission. All it means is that every time you do a clutch, just replace the slave too! You shouldn't have any issues with the slave if you do it with the clutch. The downside is, if you do have an issue, you have to pull the transmission to replace it. In 1995 until they replaced the AX15 in 2000, they were equipped with an external slave cylinder. This is more favorable to many people, but this transmission will come with a higher price tag. This is the transmission I decided to swap in to my MJ.

 

You do have an option for the later NV. Many people who run this transmission say it is better than the AX15. My 2002 TJ (with 246k miles) has this transmission. It does have a reverse syncro. I like it and it seems durable, but I don't know if the swap is exactly the same as the AX15 which I put in my MJ.

 

Now, lets get back to the swap!

 

7) Replace your hydraulic throw out bearing. On both internal and external models, it is mounted on the input shaft of the transmission. It should come with your clutch kit, but if for some off reason it doesn't, replace it!! Once installed, this is where your slave cylinder comes in to place. If it is internal, replace it! If it is external, it mounts to the outside of the transmission and pushes on a fork. That is the process I will describe since that is what I did. 

8) Install your transfer case to your manual trans. The transfer case that was bolted behind your automatic is more than likely 21 spline. The AX15s are (almost always) 23 spline. It is best to purchase the transfer case that was with your transmission if at all possible. I would also like to point out that this would be a perfect time to rebuild said transfer case if you plan on it. You can purchase a rebuild get for around $150, and in an afternoon it can be installed. I recommend installing the T case to the transmission before installing it for your own ease, but it isn't necessary.

9) Remove the gear shifter from the transmission. I say this because it is 100x easier to install the transmission in to the Jeep if it is disconnected. There should be rubber gasket on the top of the transmission, around the gear shifter. Pop that off, and there is a ring that is spring loaded in the top of the transmission. If you press down on it and spin in counter clockwise, it should pop out.

10) Install the transmission in to the Jeep. It is a pain because you have to align the input shaft perfectly with the clutch. If you have never done this before, it is definitely worth picking up a 6 pack and a pizza, and asking a friend or family member who has done it to come over and help. The best way I can describe the process is this: Get your transmission lined up with the flywheel. Slide the input shaft in, and rotate the transmission until you get it to spline.

11) Once splined, replace the bell housing bolts and starter. Be sure to be careful installing your CPS.

12) Install the exhaust hanger bracket.

13) Reinstall your cross member. The manual cross member is slightly different. If memory serves me right, the manual one has a 1/2 inch lower mounting depth. I recommend replacing it, but it is not necessary. Think about long arm kits. They have the same cross member for autos and manuals. If you want to lower driveline angles without losing ground clearance, it may be a good idea. However, do check the condition of your transmission mount. This is the time to replace it.

14) Install your drivelines

15) Install the slave cylinder to the transmission. There are 2 horizontal bolts that mount it to the drivers side of your transmission. 

16) Reinstall transfer case linkage. Adjustment may be necessary. 

 

Section 3: back in to the interior

 

1) You can now reinstall your shifter. It just pops back in the opposite it comes out. It takes a little pressure.

2) Install the lower shift boot over the shifter. I just used self tappers.

3) Reinstall console trim 

4) Install top shift boot 

5) Install shift knob. It should have a lock nut on the bottom

6) There is a computer for the automatic transmission under the dash on the passenger side. It has 2 connectors and can be removed. I just left the harness under there. If you wanted to disconnect them, they run under the drivers side dash up above the accelerator pedal. I don't think that is necessary. I don't even know if you have to remove that automatic trans computer but I did.

7) You can now reinstall all interior components. 

 

Section 4: Under the hood

 

Now that you have the main stuff done, you have just a few more things to do under the hood. Remember how I said to unplug the 2 harnesses for the neutral safety switch? Now you need to bypass it. I believe there is harness that plugs in to here on the transmission: It is for the reverse lights

You may have to make a custom harness too, I really didn't care so I just left it hanging there. 

1) Ground you NSS harness. If you decide you don't want to custom make a harness and live without reverse lights, just like I have done, all you have to do is ground the plug. Here are the plugs in relation to the valve cover.

On the black plug, I just shoved a butt connector as shown, simply grounding the circuit. A little redneck? Probably. But it has been like that since I manual swapped my Jeep over a year ago. 

 

AND THATS IT! I know it's a long thread, but I hope it makes sense. If I have missed anything or something doesn't make sense, PLEASE, let me know and I will try to clarify to the best of my ability! My dad was a HUGE help through this process, and if you have any questions I may be able to pick his brain to make up the gaps in this write up. 

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Medicwithamanche Can Spell Comanche

Medicwithamanche

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Posted

MiNi, what are you missing? I've slowly been collecting parts for my swap myself and could maybe help. 

 

Joester, did you happen to remember the hole saw size you used for your master cylinder hole in the firewall. And did you just screw in the mounts with bolts or self tappers? and is the manual trans cover necessary, besides to keep noise down some and keep the grime out. I didn't think about that piece at all. 

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Kidd1231 Jeeper

Kidd1231

Posted
Posted
On 1/1/2016 at 2:16 PM, joester1908 said:

I know there are a few other threads on this forum regarding this topic, but I did take a lot of photos, and this is how I went about it. This thread is going to be geared toward swapping in an AX15, but the information is relevant for other manual transmissions that came in XJs/MJs.

 

Before we get started:

  1. This is going in to a Comanche. It is the same for Cherokees. 
  2. If you have a long arm kit, some of the information may be a little bit off, but it is the same idea. (see the transmission install)
  3. Ignore all the random wiring. I was wiring in switches and stereo equipment while doing this swap

 

What you will need: 

  • Transmission 
  • Correct spline transfer case 
  • Clutch pedal
  • Manual brake pedal
  • Manual steering column
  • Manual cross member
  • Manual floor pan 
  • Lower shift boot (I recommend TJ)
  • Upper shift boot
  • Manual front and rear drivelines
  • Master cyl bracket
  • Clutch kit (disk, pressure plate,throw-out bearing, pilot bearing)
  • Manual flywheel - correct one for your year (see flywheel installation)
  • Slave and master assembly 

The Process:

 

Section one: Start in the interior

 

1) Pull the lower dash panel off so you have room to work.

2) Uninstall your brake pedal. There is a long bolt (I want to say 15mm or 18mm) that goes in to the bracket on the top side. You also have to uninstall it from the booster.

3) Disconnect your brake light switch 

4) Take out the 4 13mm bolts that hold on your brake booster, but keep them threaded on the ends. You aren't uninstalling the whole thing, you just need to get behind it.

 

Now, you should have something that looks like this. There is a rubber mat that you have to pull out of the way. 

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/30fdca8401b18e0e59c632226402fb3f.jpg

 

5) Test fit the master bracket. It bolts to the end of the clutch pedal bracket.

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/ede2dcf34492516fe3688484906aa61f.jpg

6) Time to drill out the firewall. On the outside of the firewall, there are 3 dimples that guide you where to drill. As you can see, there is plenty of room to get in there even with the booster installed. My drilling was slightly off, but it ended up working out just fine. Next you need a hole saw that is the diameter of the master. 

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/96bade59a21be9a8598694d739a0bc76.jpg

7) Once that is drilled out, install the bracket under the dash, to where the bottom stud comes out of the bottom hole. Installation at this point is very self explanatory. Here it is all installed. 

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/da0f3dadb68a4702a4bdc1f983ac6a0d.jpg

8) Tuck the hydraulic lines behind the brake booster and under the lip of the firewall, letting the slave cylinder (assuming it's all pre bled and assembled) dangle in the engine compartment. This is the reason you needed to uninstall the bolts.

9) Get back under your dash.

10) Install the 4 13mm bolts in the booster, being sure there is plenty of clearance for the hydraulic lines that go to the slave. 

11) Swap in your clutch pedal and brake pedal, along with the bolt that goes through both pedals and the bracket. 

 

Note* Apparently, there is a difference between the manual accelerator pedal and the automatic accelerator pedal. I am using the automatic one with no issues.

 

12) Connect your brake pedal to the booster and install the brake light switch. Remember the plastic washer. I know it's not the best picture, but its tight up there. 

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/702c89cf276c384a52330e25346d9642.jpg

13) The clutch pedal has an ear on it that will connect to the master. There is a pin and a plastic washer if I remember correctly. A little but of grease may be a good idea. If it gets old and dry your clutch pedal may squeak.

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/785360d82c597e1f593a600c703cf5ed.jpg

And now you're done with the first step! Once that is all installed and all the bolts are tight, move on to the steering column.

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/e3d3e44a624a62976a0c0c2884e3f84b.jpg

Steering column: Good luck!

 

The steering column is the least fun part of this whole thing, that's why you should just get it over with. The reason you have to swap the column is that the manual Jeeps have a key lock switch. You have to press the switch to get the key out. In my case, I had a column shifter and it would be useless. So while you have your dash apart, just tackle it. You have to take off the bezel around the instrument cluster, so if your PRND indicator is in your cluster like mine was, this is also the time to swap that out. If you have to swap over a steering wheel, remove that before you remove the column for ease. Sorry I didn't take a whole lot of pictures of this process.

 

1) Remove the exposed plugs on the column. There are a couple that seem impossible to get to, but they give you enough slack to disconnect them once the column drops out. Just get the ones on the side of the column for now.

2) Remove the bolts from the firewall. There are a couple of bolts that hold the bottom of the column to the firewall. 

3) Remove the 13mm steering shaft bolt from the steering box

4) Remove the 2 vertical bolts on the bottom side of the console that hold it in place. There is bracketry that comes from the trans tunnel and the kick panel that supports the column. I remember having to wrestle it free a little bit.

5) Now, your column should be hanging down, exposing the remaining connectors. Now your column should be free. Go out to your steering box and use a screw driver to give the steering shaft a nudge towards the cab of the vehicle. It may be a little tight on the steering input shaft of your box.

6) Put your new column through the hole in the firewall. This may take 2 people, and uninstalling the steering shaft before you complete this task may make it easier if you are by yourself. 

7) If I remember correctly, I held the column in place while connecting the plugs. Then I got it back on top off the brackets and just finger tightened the 2 vertical bolts. After that was complete, I installed the steering shaft on the box, allowing the column to slide in to place completely. 

8) Tighten the bolts on the firewall

9) Tighten the 2 vertical bolts for the column support

10) Plug in the remaining plugs on the side of the column. 

11) Reinstall dash trim and/or cluster if necessary. 

 

Note* If you have the column shift MJ, you have a shifter cable that runs behind the dash. Disconnect that and throw it out. 

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/ac3b5fda98503793b4c3aee968662cc8.jpg

 

Anyways, here's how it looked with the new column.

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/0a9bc5faee2f99cb50bc1490a35e15d3.jpg

 

This was my old tach. It was definitely customized. 

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/50e1f8920fcad1fdc0fe7578dff4bfac.jpg

 

And here's the new, all installed.

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/0d0c6cd0e61fc39e3d5a5074e2df58a2.jpg

 

Now, it's time to reinstall the old steering wheel. If you aren't swapping a steering wheel over, just go down to the next section, center console. 

1) If your steering wheel is like the one pictured, remove the 2 rear bolts. exposing the center nut. 

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/8e170934ec249f67a4583f07291ea2e4.jpg

There are 2 connectors for the horn. Disconnect them.

2) Use a steering wheel puller to uninstall your old wheel

3) Change out the pin for the horn if necessary 

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/e0040a329690e7607d76cb2547fb8f18.jpg

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/e0431822edb0bbd095f0565ed670c140.jpg

4) install new wheel 

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/f3aad964b8db64df9b14ade4f31b755b.jpg

5) Reinstall the trim. On this style wheel, it just pops on.

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/bd6b716e4640e47643a9607c27acaeb7.jpg

 

 

Center console and shift boots:

1) uninstall your center console completely. There are 2 screws that hold on the black, center piece of the console under the lid. If you have a floor shifter, you need to pop the PRND thing off (it just snaps in) and I'm pretty sure the handle of the shifter has to come off too. Once you uninstall that, there are 2 screws inside the actual console itself. Then, there is 1 screw near the E brake (If it is console mounted, not floor) and one near the automatic trans shifter. Lastly, there is 1 screw under the trim of the 4wd selector. 

2) After your entire console is out, you need to swap over the hole in your floor pan. I had a column shift MJ, so it was just a blank pan. If you have a floor shifter, you have to take off that linkage before taking out the cover. When you take off the cover, this is what it will look like. There are around 10 8mm self tappers.

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/33938a33d121ef6594b829ff061c9c4e.jpg

3) Install the manual trans cover. 

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/c37a4cc48fcf6c49d3b9e53479ba455b.jpg

This is what your shift boot will connect to. I used one from a TJ because I couldn't find an XJ one that was in good shape. Don't install it yet. I know there is no transmission in that photo, but that's because this Jeep was pretty much just a shell at this point.

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/b3a9ea950b6dc1d002bfcd51567b8bb8.jpg

4) Reinstall your center console, leaving the oval shape hole in your floor exposed.

 

Section 2: Uninstall your automatic transmission:

 

Part one: Accessories

 

BEFORE YOU BEGIN, APPLY PARKING BRAKE 

 

1) Disconnect your kick down cable from your throttle body and off the side of the transmission. It is hooked to the throttle body. Don't worry about taking it off the transmission. It's coming out anyways.

2) Uninstall your neutral safety switch wiring. There is a white and a black plug on the harness that runs on the seam of your firewall. This is what they look like.

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/4637c58c6d140f0ddceabac2863e5fef.jpg

3) Uninstall the automatic trans lines

4) BLOCK FRONT AND REAR TIRES SO THE VEHICLE WILL NOT ROLL FORWARDS OR BACKWARDS. IN BOLD AND CAPS BECAUSE THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT I HAVE HEARD OF HAPPENING. YOU WILL BE REMOVING YOUR TRANSMISSION AND DRIVELINES, ONLY LEAVING YOUR PARKING BRAKE TO HOLD THE VEHICLE. PLEASE REMEMBER THIS STEP FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY.

5) Remove both front and rear drivelines. When you are selecting drivelines to replace your stock ones with, you need to take in to account which axles you have. If you have a Dana 35 in the rear, you need to get a manual driveshaft for a Dana 35. If you try using one from an 8.25, the shaft length may not be correct. Removing them now will give you time to figure out exactly what length you will need. 

6) Disconnect transfer case linkage

7) Using a floor jack, put pressure on the seam between the transfer case and transmission. you need to take the tension off your cross member. The jack isn't lifting, just holding. 

8) CAREFULLY, remove the transmission mount bolts that can be accessed with holes cut inside the cross member. 

9) CAREFULLY, remove the 2 bolts on either side of your cross member. The weight of the transmission and T case should be on the jack now, and your cross member should just come right out. 

10) Your exhaust hanger bracket is mounted to the side of your transmission. You may have to swap that around too. Pull the bolts out and let it hang off the exhaust.

11) Remove the bolts from the bell housing, including your starter. Because the weight is on the jack, you can lower it down to give you a little bit more room.

12) The top 2 bolts of the bell housing are inverted torx. I recommend using about 3 feet of extensions.

13) Once your bell housing bolts are removed, you can remove the automatic transmission and the transfer case attached to it. This is easiest done with 2 people. Just be careful, communicate, and don't be directly under the transmission, obviously. 

 

Swapping in the manual components:

 

1) Now that your transmission is removed, you will see your old flywheel. Remove the 6 bolts that hold it on. An impact is the easiest way, but it can be done with a dead blow and a breaker bar. 

2) Before you can install your new flywheel, you must change out the pilot bearing in your engine. It is a needle type bearing that is pressed in to the rear of the crankshaft. It is a pain to get out, but with a bearing puller it is a breeze. This is a small bearing that should come in your clutch kit. If you do not have access to a puller, you can pack the area behind the bearing with grease, then use a rod that is slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the bearing and tap it in. The pressure should pop the bearing out. You also need to change out the "spacer plate" for one without the inspection cover.

3) Once installed, you must install your manual flywheel. It is very important you get the flywheel for your year of Jeep. They did change throughout the years, and your CPS will not read correctly if you do not get the correct flywheel. I recommend getting a brand new one. They are cheap. 

3) Torque the flywheel bolts to the recommended spec. If you do not have a shop manual, I highly recommend getting one. According to the shop manual I keep on my coffee table, the flywheel bolts should be 105 ft/lbs. I installed mine while my engine was out...

/uploads/archive/345a6ace1a0d246079cd0592f9fcaac9/f05a2043df769524934b1e2c5655dbef.jpg

4) Next, you need to install the pressure plate to the flywheel. 40 ft/lbs.

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5) I won't get in to the installment of the clutch, that can be found many places online, including use of the supplied alignment tool. 

6) Now that your transmission is ready to go in, lets take a break and talk about what transmission is actually going in to your vehicle.

 

You have a few options when it comes to transmissions. 1987-1989.5 with the 4.0L used a Peugeot BA10. Its 4 cylinder, little brother is the BA5. I have personally owned a Jeep with this transmission. Many people will tell you that it is a terrible transmission and should be thrown out immediately. If you plan on running large tires, doing any sort of off road use, or hard shifting, I agree. I personally think if you're going through all this trouble you should put a stout transmission in. 

 

The AX15 (4.0L) and the AX5 (2.5L)  are much better options. They are a good, reliable transmission. They are plentiful and not overly priced. If you get a 1989.5-1994 model, they are internal slave cylinder. I would like to point out that there is nothing wrong with this transmission. All it means is that every time you do a clutch, just replace the slave too! You shouldn't have any issues with the slave if you do it with the clutch. The downside is, if you do have an issue, you have to pull the transmission to replace it. In 1995 until they replaced the AX15 in 2000, they were equipped with an external slave cylinder. This is more favorable to many people, but this transmission will come with a higher price tag. This is the transmission I decided to swap in to my MJ.

 

You do have an option for the later NV. Many people who run this transmission say it is better than the AX15. My 2002 TJ (with 246k miles) has this transmission. It does have a reverse syncro. I like it and it seems durable, but I don't know if the swap is exactly the same as the AX15 which I put in my MJ.

 

Now, lets get back to the swap!

 

7) Replace your hydraulic throw out bearing. On both internal and external models, it is mounted on the input shaft of the transmission. It should come with your clutch kit, but if for some off reason it doesn't, replace it!! Once installed, this is where your slave cylinder comes in to place. If it is internal, replace it! If it is external, it mounts to the outside of the transmission and pushes on a fork. That is the process I will describe since that is what I did. 

8) Install your transfer case to your manual trans. The transfer case that was bolted behind your automatic is more than likely 21 spline. The AX15s are (almost always) 23 spline. It is best to purchase the transfer case that was with your transmission if at all possible. I would also like to point out that this would be a perfect time to rebuild said transfer case if you plan on it. You can purchase a rebuild get for around $150, and in an afternoon it can be installed. I recommend installing the T case to the transmission before installing it for your own ease, but it isn't necessary.

9) Remove the gear shifter from the transmission. I say this because it is 100x easier to install the transmission in to the Jeep if it is disconnected. There should be rubber gasket on the top of the transmission, around the gear shifter. Pop that off, and there is a ring that is spring loaded in the top of the transmission. If you press down on it and spin in counter clockwise, it should pop out.

10) Install the transmission in to the Jeep. It is a pain because you have to align the input shaft perfectly with the clutch. If you have never done this before, it is definitely worth picking up a 6 pack and a pizza, and asking a friend or family member who has done it to come over and help. The best way I can describe the process is this: Get your transmission lined up with the flywheel. Slide the input shaft in, and rotate the transmission until you get it to spline.

11) Once splined, replace the bell housing bolts and starter. Be sure to be careful installing your CPS.

12) Install the exhaust hanger bracket.

13) Reinstall your cross member. The manual cross member is slightly different. If memory serves me right, the manual one has a 1/2 inch lower mounting depth. I recommend replacing it, but it is not necessary. Think about long arm kits. They have the same cross member for autos and manuals. If you want to lower driveline angles without losing ground clearance, it may be a good idea. However, do check the condition of your transmission mount. This is the time to replace it.

14) Install your drivelines

15) Install the slave cylinder to the transmission. There are 2 horizontal bolts that mount it to the drivers side of your transmission. 

16) Reinstall transfer case linkage. Adjustment may be necessary. 

 

Section 3: back in to the interior

 

1) You can now reinstall your shifter. It just pops back in the opposite it comes out. It takes a little pressure.

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2) Install the lower shift boot over the shifter. I just used self tappers.

3) Reinstall console trim 

4) Install top shift boot 

5) Install shift knob. It should have a lock nut on the bottom

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6) There is a computer for the automatic transmission under the dash on the passenger side. It has 2 connectors and can be removed. I just left the harness under there. If you wanted to disconnect them, they run under the drivers side dash up above the accelerator pedal. I don't think that is necessary. I don't even know if you have to remove that automatic trans computer but I did.

7) You can now reinstall all interior components. 

 

Section 4: Under the hood

 

Now that you have the main stuff done, you have just a few more things to do under the hood. Remember how I said to unplug the 2 harnesses for the neutral safety switch? Now you need to bypass it. I believe there is harness that plugs in to here on the transmission: It is for the reverse lights

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You may have to make a custom harness too, I really didn't care so I just left it hanging there. 

1) Ground you NSS harness. If you decide you don't want to custom make a harness and live without reverse lights, just like I have done, all you have to do is ground the plug. Here are the plugs in relation to the valve cover.

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On the black plug, I just shoved a butt connector as shown, simply grounding the circuit. A little redneck? Probably. But it has been like that since I manual swapped my Jeep over a year ago. 

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AND THATS IT! I know it's a long thread, but I hope it makes sense. If I have missed anything or something doesn't make sense, PLEASE, let me know and I will try to clarify to the best of my ability! My dad was a HUGE help through this process, and if you have any questions I may be able to pick his brain to make up the gaps in this write up. 

What rear driveshaft did you use?

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MiNi Beast Obsessive Comanche Disorder

MiNi Beast

Posted
Posted
On 11/18/2020 at 12:37 PM, Medicwithamanche said:

MiNi, what are you missing? I've slowly been collecting parts for my swap myself and could maybe help. 

 

Joester, did you happen to remember the hole saw size you used for your master cylinder hole in the firewall. And did you just screw in the mounts with bolts or self tappers? and is the manual trans cover necessary, besides to keep noise down some and keep the grime out. I didn't think about that piece at all. 

i need bellhousing bolts, clutch fork for external. then ill get a new slave clutch set up, also may need spacer plate if my aw4 plate dosent work. i think that maybe it. 

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89 MJ Obsessive Comanche Disorder

89 MJ

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, MiNi Beast said:

i need bellhousing bolts, clutch fork for external. then ill get a new slave clutch set up, also may need spacer plate if my aw4 plate dosent work. i think that maybe it. 

So close! Do you need the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the motor or the bellhousing to the transmission?

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