MJfan94 Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 My dana 35 does not have c clips. Would it be worth building it up or upgrading it to a different axle like a Chrysler 8.25 or ford 8.8? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 it's still a dana 35 and has weak shafts, weak tubes and a weak everything else. It's better to invest in an upgrade. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Either one, 29 spline C8.25 or Ford 8.8. Both of those are significantly better than the Turdy-Five. I'd say the 8.8 only because you'll have to cut off the spring perches on either axle and weld on new ones, so at that rate, for the same work, you might as well go for a a stronger axle. Assuming you're getting it from the junkyard, you're going to likely pay the same for either one, so you might as well get the most for your money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 I got a Chrysler 8.25 for sale out of a 2dr cherokee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 you also have a private message system built into the CC software. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big66440 Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 I'd say it depends on what you do with your truck and your budget, I have a D35 on my 2WD DD Comanche and it's perfectly fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Word of advice, from someone who had a Turdy5 explode.. UPGRADE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Either one, 29 spline C8.25 or Ford 8.8. Both of those are significantly better than the Turdy-Five. I'd say the 8.8 only because you'll have to cut off the spring perches on either axle and weld on new ones, so at that rate, for the same work, you might as well go for a a stronger axle. Assuming you're getting it from the junkyard, you're going to likely pay the same for either one, so you might as well get the most for your money. On the other hand, a Chrysler 8-1/4 out of a Cherokee will be the correct width, whereas a Ford 8.8 will require running spacers on the rear axle. The cost of a decent set of spacers (billet aluminum, not cast) adds a significant amount to the price of an 8.8 axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DansGreyMj Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Spacers are not required for an 8.8 unless you're running wheels with a lot of backspacing. I ran 33 12.50 15s on 15x8 black steel wheels with 3.75 backspacing without spacers for years with zero clearance issues. The only thing "required" for an 8.8 is a ujoint flange, but I think having discs over drums negates the extra cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 If you drop the coin on a C-Clip eliminator kit for the 8.8 like the Yukon one, you end up with an axle just a bit wider than the stock one, and nice upgraded axle shafts to boot. Worth $500+? judge for yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Spacers are not required for an 8.8 unless you're running wheels with a lot of backspacing. You mean, like ... stock (factory) Jeep wheels? Not everyone wants to run aftermarket rims. If you do, that's another expense on top of the cost of the axle if you go with a Ford 8.8. There's also the cost of a pinion yoke adaptation. If the cost of the axles is about the same, there's no question that the Cherokee 8-1/4" is the easiest, least expensive way to go. I'm not saying the 8.8 isn't a good axle, I'm just pointing out that with the 8.8 there will be costs beyond the price of the axle and the relocation of the perches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DansGreyMj Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 You mean, like ... stock (factory) Jeep wheels? Not everyone wants to run aftermarket rims. If you do, that's another expense on top of the cost of the axle if you go with a Ford 8.8. There's also the cost of a pinion yoke adaptation. Well maybe you should clarify your statements instead of giving partially false information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 You mean, like ... stock (factory) Jeep wheels? Not everyone wants to run aftermarket rims. If you do, that's another expense on top of the cost of the axle if you go with a Ford 8.8. There's also the cost of a pinion yoke adaptation. Well maybe you should clarify your statements instead of giving partially false information. What information have I given that's even partially false incorrect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DansGreyMj Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Oh boy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Oh boy... Not helpful. Fact: The Ford 8.8 axle is narrower than XJ/MJ axles. With a factory axle, 31x10.50s on factory 15x7 rims just barely clear the inner fenders, and the inner sidewalls rub the body whenever the rear axle gets a little twisted relative to the chassis. Changing to an 8.8 requires either using wheel spacers or aftermarket rims with significantly less backspacing. Fact: A Chrysler 8-1/4 axle uses the same u-joint setup at the pinion yoke as the factory MJ D35 -- no adaptation needed. You cannot just bolt the factory drive shaft to a Ford 8.8 axle. What part of that is not correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Oh boy... Not helpful. Fact: The Ford 8.8 axle is narrower than XJ/MJ axles. With a factory axle, 31x10.50s on factory 15x7 rims just barely clear the inner fenders, and the inner sidewalls rub the body whenever the rear axle gets a little twisted relative to the chassis. Changing to an 8.8 requires either using wheel spacers or aftermarket rims with significantly less backspacing. Fact: A Chrysler 8-1/4 axle uses the same u-joint setup at the pinion yoke as the factory MJ D35 -- no adaptation needed. You cannot just bolt the factory drive shaft to a Ford 8.8 axle. What part of that is not correct? Well, the problem is.. You are ASSUMING. OP does not specify their intentions, other specs or what they plan on running. So, your "facts" or "statements" are potentially flawed. Either one may require driveshaft modification as both axles have a longer pinion. For the F8.8, running stock wheels with less than 10.5" wide tires will work fine. You also get rear disc brakes! Flange companion adapter is 20$ on amazon. A pair of Hubcentric wheel spacers/adapters for around 50$. If you stay SUA, and can get the Exploder leaf plates you can run the shocks just as factory has. For the C8.25, you still have drums, unless you pay EXTRA for disc conversion. If you stay SUA, even if you have the XJ leaf plates, you will have to install shock mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Well, the problem is.. You are ASSUMING. OP does not specify their intentions, other specs or what they plan on running. So, your "facts" or "statements" are potentially flawed. Either one may require driveshaft modification as both axles have a longer pinion. For the F8.8, running stock wheels with less than 10.5" wide tires will work fine. You also get rear disc brakes! Flange companion adapter is 20$ on amazon. A pair of Hubcentric wheel spacers/adapters for around 50$. If you stay SUA, and can get the Exploder leaf plates you can run the shocks just as factory has. For the C8.25, you still have drums, unless you pay EXTRA for disc conversion. If you stay SUA, even if you have the XJ leaf plates, you will have to install shock mounts. I'm not assuming anything. The facts I cited are facts, irrespective of the OP's intentions. The owner's intentions don't change the fact that the Ford 8.8 is narrower than a factory Jeep axle. You say narrower tires can be run on the 8.8 with factory rims. I disagree. Maybe that would work if the tires are smaller than 225/75-15, but I doubt it. And the owner's intentions don't change the fact that a stock Jeep drive shaft u-joint doesn't mate up to the stock 8.8 pinion yoke. Certainly the owner's intentions are important. IF the owner plans to run aftermarket rims with significantly less backspacing, the narrower axle width may not be a problem. But -- in that case running the same rims on the front will almost certainly require cutting the sheet metal. Some people don't mind doing that -- others prefer not to. It's a factor that has to be considered, and when people just say there's "no problem" using the 8.8 without pointing out the things that might increase the cost and effort of using it, IMHO that's not complete advice and THAT's when assumptions are being made. That kind of advice, without pointing out the potential added costs, is assuming that the advisee's priorities are the same as yours. The 8.8 is a decent, strong axle. Some of them come with disk brakes and a LSD. For someone who is already planning on running wheels with less setback and is prepared to accept the other expenses that would increase the cost over that of using a Chrysler 8-1/4 axle, fine -- the 8.8 can be a good choice. I just don't think it's fair to point a person asking for advice in that direction without pointing out the other factors involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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