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1986 WOLFRED build thread


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looks, i aint here to start an arguement on my build thread, i'm just sayin that everything is made the same now, as long as you use somethin the way it was intended to be used you won't break it and it won't be unsafe (unless defective) that's all i'm sayin

 

I dig this truck. As far as the spacers, they look just like my Spidertrax units except for thr lack of anodizing. Time will tell whether they're good or not, I guess. I personally wouldn't ditch this MJ, though. If it were me, I'd do a 4wd conversion, slap in a fresh 3.4, and throw some kind of aftermarket EFI or propane conversion on it to make the wiring easy.

 

propane conversion? i'd rather pay the price of gas, but a 4wd swap is coming once i have the funds for it and another daily driver i'll do everything i want to do to it, 4.0 or 4.2 swap, and 4wd convertion

 

Redwolf

Propane, in my mind, isn't about gas prices. It's an easy way to get an old school engine to run similarly to an fuel injected one without having to attach much, if any electronics to it. As far as a 4.0 swap, the 4.0 is a fantastic engine if it came in your rig, but I wouldn't swap one into a vehicle when there are so many other engines available that are lighter and are easier to fit into an enfine bay than the long, tall 4.0.

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i've always loved the 4.0s even though it's a ford engine, i try to stray away from GM, i never have any luck with GM anything, when i bought the MJ i didn't know it had a GM engine, i thought all jeeps where chrysler corp no matter the year, but one way or another i have yet again, another engine swap for my MJ weather it's a 3.5, 350, or 4.0, and hornbrod is right. when it comes to me, logic goes out the windows  :rotf:

 

Redwolf

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Since when is the 4.0 a Ford engine? It's an AMC design based on the old 232...

just always what i've been told, always read, etc

 

Redwolf

Ford has a 4.0L but it is completely different from the AMC/Chrysler 4.0L! VW makes a 2.8L it's not the same as the 2.8L GM motor! But nice build thread :thumbs up:
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Yeah... the Jeep 4.0 is based off an old AMC design. Ford's 4.0 is a V6, not even close to the Jeep inline six. And if you don't know what any of those big words mean, don't ask. If you can't research them with Google, you're too young to know.

what two big words?  :rotf: i was wondering why when i have fords come in with the 4.0 it looked completely different from the 4.0 in cherokees, i just couldn't seem to tell, but now i know,

 

Redwolf

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  • 5 weeks later...

done some more to the MJ, replaced the radiator, cap, and both hoses, got chains hangin from the roll bar right about my jack (i still have a tow strap don't worry), no i get to figure out which size drums, shoes and wheel clyinders i need. this week is gonna involve all new rear brakes and hopefully longer studs,

 

Redwolf

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Why do you need to "figure out" which brake parts you need? Like with all other parts, walk into a parts store, give them year, make, and model, answer their stupid questions, and install the parts they give you...

not that easy this time, i have 2 different size drums when i walk into advance, 2 different size shoes and 2 different wheel cylinders all for my year make and model

 

I get the feeling ur not liked...oh well good luck with your build anyhow were not all "i assume" as smart as some as these others on here lol.....I commend you fir trying and starting a build thread.

ever hear of beating a dead horse? i'm the horse that don't die lol

 

From Oreilley's:

 

Wheel Cylinders:

 

P/N WC17507

P/N WC17508

 

Brake Hardware kit:

H7064 (if you have a D35)

 

Brake Shoes:

 

481 (again, assuming you have the D35)

i do have a dana 35 (atleast for now) and i'm goin through advance cause they're cheaper for me (thanks to work) and like i said above when i quoted gogmorgo i have 2 different size and types of shoes, drums and wheel cylinders,

 

Redwolf

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Pop a drum off and measure it. You're looking for the diameter of the braking surface. A ruler will do it, doesn't need to be super accurate. Or you could buy both sizes, go home, install the one that fits, and return the other so you don't have to pull a wheel off twice.

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Pop a drum off and measure it. You're looking for the diameter of the braking surface. A ruler will do it, doesn't need to be super accurate. Or you could buy both sizes, go home, install the one that fits, and return the other so you don't have to pull a wheel off twice.

i got the sizes, turns out the other sizes are for the dana 44, website doesn't show that but in the store does, just gotta wait on my old man so i can learn drums, it's somethin i haven't done, i inspect em but don't replace em at work,

 

Redwolf

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Pop a drum off and measure it. You're looking for the diameter of the braking surface. A ruler will do it, doesn't need to be super accurate. Or you could buy both sizes, go home, install the one that fits, and return the other so you don't have to pull a wheel off twice.

i got the sizes, turns out the other sizes are for the dana 44, website doesn't show that but in the store does, just gotta wait on my old man so i can learn drums, it's somethin i haven't done, i inspect em but don't replace em at work,

 

Redwolf

That happened to me when I had my d35 the drums were eitger to big or to small, I can't remember! But I'm glad I have the 8.8 now with discs! No springs or adjusters to always deal with! But the parking brake on it uses a system similar to drums. I plan to get a hydraulic parking break to eleminate that.
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