AeroNautical Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 We have a panel on our 64s that covers a gearbox leading to the tail rotor. During our daily and 25 hour inspections, we have to remove it to check grease plugs and oil levels. It is the single most difficult panel to remove and replace on the aircraft because you are standing on pegs that extend from the tail, holding on for dear life with one hand and removing screws with another, and it's called the b*@$£ panel for good reason. Today, I've found that panel on our trucks. The 4.0 oil pan. I've replaced transmissions, t-cases, axles, suspensions, motors, electrical components and even fixed rust holes for Gods sake, and I've NEVER had as much trouble as I've had on this oil pan and gasket. Holy hell, I scared myself with how angry I got. I did it the first time by myself, and the gasket didn't seat quite right near the RMS. Attempt number 2, the same thing happened. #3, I had a buddy to help me and I got the gasket to seat properly, but what's this? Only use RTV on the front and rear of the gasket? OK... Leaks from the sides. 3 $20 fel pro gaskets and an oil change, and I'm done. This truck has never seen a mechanic, but I think it's time. I'm losing years of life because of this, have any of you had this much trouble with this damn pan? Haven't gotten a quote from a mechanic yet, how much do you think it'd cost? Plus, I'd need to pay for another oil change and gasket. I hated my money anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 I have to redo mine before an upcoming road trip. The front leaks, but only a few drops after turning off the engine. I even had the luxury of putting the gasket and pan on with the long block on a stand turned upside down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Get the blue permadry felpro gasket it's more money than the standard gasket but seals so much better . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 I've found that if you take a half dozen, or more, studs and screw them in the block it will help align the pan and gasket. After getting everything started, remove one stud at a time and replace it with the proper bolt. In some cases I have just left the stud in and added a washer and nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 We have a panel on our 64s that covers a gearbox leading to the tail rotor. During our daily and 25 hour inspections, we have to remove it to check grease plugs and oil levels. It is the single most difficult panel to remove and replace on the aircraft because you are standing on pegs that extend from the tail, holding on for dear life with one hand and removing screws with another, and it's called the b*@$£ panel for good reason. Today, I've found that panel on our trucks. The 4.0 oil pan. I've replaced transmissions, t-cases, axles, suspensions, motors, electrical components and even fixed rust holes for Gods sake, and I've NEVER had as much trouble as I've had on this oil pan and gasket. Holy hell, I scared myself with how angry I got. I did it the first time by myself, and the gasket didn't seat quite right near the RMS. Attempt number 2, the same thing happened. #3, I had a buddy to help me and I got the gasket to seat properly, but what's this? Only use RTV on the front and rear of the gasket? OK... Leaks from the sides. 3 $20 fel pro gaskets and an oil change, and I'm done. This truck has never seen a mechanic, but I think it's time. I'm losing years of life because of this, have any of you had this much trouble with this damn pan? Haven't gotten a quote from a mechanic yet, how much do you think it'd cost? Plus, I'd need to pay for another oil change and gasket. I hated my money anyway. Did this on the XJ before the Uwharrie trip last month... Sucks big time. Before that, I did it with the engine on a stand, upside down. SOOOOOO much easier. I almost contemplated taking the whole engine out just to replace that damn seal because it pissed me off so bad. The rear is not seated correctly on mine still. Eventually, I'm going to rip the whole drive train out and fix every leak on that b*#!$ while it's out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 I got a quote from a mechanic today. I would provide the gasket and oil, and it still costs $400 in labor. That's a big negative, so I think I'm just gonna clean up the sides of the pan as best as I can and RTV the hell out of it. It's cheap, incorrect and improvised as hell, but if it works, it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Let's just take the engine out lol. Come on up to my garage, we'll get her done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 Let's just take the engine out lol. Come on up to my garage, we'll get her done. That's a tempting offer, haha. Isn't it funny how removing the engine would be easier than replacing this gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 That's a tempting offer, haha. Isn't it funny how removing the engine would be easier than replacing this gasket? Yea, it's quite sad. There's a trick to replacing that gasket, but I'm still waiting to learn it lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Somehow mine doesn't leak... Yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Would removing the front axle assembly and having a cleaner shot at it be easier ? I don't have a 4.0 so I don't know but that's what I would try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 Would removing the front axle assembly and having a cleaner shot at it be easier ? I don't have a 4.0 so I don't know but that's what I would try It might on stock trucks, but I have enough lift that all I need to remove is the steering stabilizer. There is room to work with, it's not even all that difficult to get bolts to line up, it's just getting that gasket to seat perfectly. There are thick parts to it, also, so you can't just replace it with a load of RTV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Are you getting the good gasket? It's blue (mine was gray actually) and are you torquing down the bolts properly? There's a way your supposed to do it per the manual. I can't remember $#!& it's been so long since I did mine but I went through two gaskets before it was good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 Are you getting the good gasket? It's blue (mine was gray actually) and are you torquing down the bolts properly? There's a way your supposed to do it per the manual. I can't remember $#!& it's been so long since I did mine but I went through two gaskets before it was good. Yep, blue fel pro, same for my valve cover and every other gasket I've replaced. The one I had taken off was quark. I believe the torque value was 7 ft/lb, hardly even worth breaking out the torque wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 I haven't tried it myself, but I did see a tip awhile back that made a lot of sense. Get 6 small zip ties, and zip tie the gasket to the pan at the corners and middle of the sides. Get it up in there, get the bolts threaded for the holes that aren't being used by zip ties. Cut the ties, pull them out, and put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten it up. I imagine it should go smoothly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 I haven't tried it myself, but I did see a tip awhile back that made a lot of sense. Get 6 small zip ties, and zip tie the gasket to the pan at the corners and middle of the sides. Get it up in there, get the bolts threaded for the holes that aren't being used by zip ties. Cut the ties, pull them out, and put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten it up. I imagine it should go smoothly. Long time no see! I had actually done this with safety wire (all I had on hand). It keeps the sides of the gasket in place, but doesn't help much for the RMS part of it, because there is a good stretch of gasket that isn't retained by bolts, it just kinda slides into place, just never the right place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Doesn't matter who you are, sometimes a oil pan gasket or RMS will leak after you put em in. Its just the nature of the beast. Best tip I'd give is to remove the pan and let it drain overnight and and take your time cleaning the block and oil pan mating surfaces real good. Personally I think the oil pan is easy compared to the valve cover, I just can't get my fat hands on to that rear valve cover bolt. I use an cordless impact driver on the oil pan, can have it out in minute or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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