relyt120 Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Decided to install the remote start module I got for my birthday like 2 years ago and it seems to be working BUT my 89 4.0l auto truck takes so long to start that it times out without getting going. It tries 3 times increasing the crank time each time and even the longest pulse doesn't do the trick. Does anyone have any tips for getting the renix crank time down to 2 seconds? :rotf: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Nope. The problem is that the Renix ECU doesn't ever "learn" to optimize itself. Every time you start the engine, the computer has to run through a checklist and verify signals from several sensors. It's worse if you just turn the key directly to START, because if the fuel system lost pressure overnight the engine cranks while the fuel pump is still bringing the system up to pressure. I always listen to the fuel pump, and I don't start cranking the starter until the fuel pump has run and shut off. But with a remote starter you don't get that option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Somebody correct me if they think this won't work . But how about using a diesel remote start ? Some of the better remote starts have the option to allow the glow plugs to warm up before it starts to crank the engine over . And couldn't you advance the CPS or buy a high altitude cps to start it a bit quicker also ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Mine will start in 2-3 seconds, cold, every time. I turn the key and wait about 2 seconds, turn to start......but will not start without a crack of the throttle, my idle air control has not worked since I got the truck. Getting there took going through the entire electrical system and replacing all the sensors........except of course the IAC, which I have no intention of swapping out, no need to. In fact the idle-up sensor in the power steering will go away too when I swap out the pump. The wife's 97 used to take 2-3 cranks to start also. Replacing the battery cables and cleaning the grounds and adding/upgrading the grounds solved that problem too. We still wait about 2-3 seconds to crank with hers to allow pump to build pressure but it starts up on the first try now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-delay-timer-relay-with-delay-adjustment-potentiometer-turn-on-off-switch-module-2pcs-lot/1454100936.html If you are insistent........persistent........brainy........ You could look for a delay relay, your input signal may last only 2 seconds but you could go through a second relay and adjust your time out to 4-5 seconds. The only risk I could see is over extending your starter run time by a second or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 I would look at your IAC first and see if it is even functioning. When was the last time you cleaned your throttle body/plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Decided to install the remote start module I got for my birthday like 2 years ago and it seems to be working BUT my 89 4.0l auto truck takes so long to start that it times out without getting going. It tries 3 times increasing the crank time each time and even the longest pulse doesn't do the trick. Does anyone have any tips for getting the renix crank time down to 2 seconds? :rotf: How many of my "Renix Tips" have you performed so far? 1,3,4,5, and 7 for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 You've got a very basic remote start system then. Mine cranks fairly fast, but my remote start system keeps cranking till it senses the engine is running by tying into the tachometer circuitry. It also does timed starting if I didn't have a way to hook into the tach wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 I've looked through the manual and it looks like tach sensing and alt. sensing are options. I would like to do the alt sensing but i am having trouble finding the stator wire from the alt. the book describes it as: "The stator wire is found at the vehicles' alternator. Change your meter to DC before testing for the wire. A) At rest, with the iginition off, the stator wire should test 0v DC. B) Turn the ignition to run position. The stator wire should now test between 1-6v DC. C) Start the vehicle with the key. The stator wire should now test between 12-14vDC at idle." The alt has 3 wires. the big red one that goes to the battery through the starter relay, and two in a plug one yellow and one brown with black tracer. The red is obviously not it, the yellow gets 12v with the iginition in run position, and the brown with black tracer disappears into the harness and i don't want to cut it unless I know for sure that it is the stator. Anyone have any clue? Otherwise I may try the tach sensing mode, the reason i want to do the other is the tach mode requires programming. PS: Thank you all for your replies. I have tried several of the solutions suggested to no avail. I got the thing in diesel mode where it gives it 8 seconds before cranking. Have recently cleaned IAC and TB. I am afraid of the delay relay because it tries again and it may end up grinding or screwing up my starter Also i live and die by Cruiser's tips :bowdown: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Yellow wire in the 2 wire plug. Are you done yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 Turns out the wire it wanted was the brown with black tracer. Got it working now, just got to tidy up the wiring :rock on: Thanks everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 :banana: remote start is working, wires are cleaned up, remote lock/unlock are working. I think thats a good day and a half right there! The module controls the locks with negative pulses out of two wires, i recently rewired my doors to work off of a bank of relays rather than using polarity reversing switches so i made sure they were triggered by ground so this guy would work :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmodman Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Cool that you got it working. Something that I did that made my Cherokee start quicker was Cruiser's over-bored CPS holes. Probably just made the spark a bit stronger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Cool that you got it working. Something that I did that made my Cherokee start quicker was Cruiser's over-bored CPS holes. Probably just made the spark a bit stronger. Sends a stronger signal to the eCU sooner so the eCU gives the command "Fire!" a bit earlier. Added benefit is that if there's resistance in the wiring from the CPS to the Ecu, you've got the extra voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 That's what your avatar picture is showing, correct Cruiser? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 That's what your avatar picture is showing, correct Cruiser? Kinda sorta. It's a diagram of the CPS and it's location. The overbored upper hole is outlined in post 7 of my Renix tips in my signature below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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