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Removeable Doors?


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i've seen a few MJs on here with no doors but never a thread on how to remove em, it's gonna be a really hot summer for me in VA and i have no AC so any air flow i can get i take, i'm lookin for a way to take the MJ doors off but still able to put em back on, kinda like wranglers doors but without the hinges on the outside of the vehicle, if anyone has a method of how they did it and pictures of what was done that'd be great 

 

Redwolf

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There's a write up somewhere here and on the net. You cut the bottom part of the hinge off. The hinge on the door side. I used a dremel as its really the only thing that you can fit in there. I then used a punch and hammer to knock it off the rest of the way. It's very simple. They can be put on and off with ease.

 

If no one links it for you or posts up pics, ill go take a few

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There are a bunch of threads for doing the same thing to the same parts on XJ's if you look around.

I'd like to pull my doors off in the summer, but the issue I have is that for 80% of the year I really need the doors, and I need them to seal. I haven't found anyone else's write up on how to do it yet without cutting the bottom of the hinge off, which seriously compromises the whole sealing thing. I'll be looking further into it this summer.

 

But if you don't care how your doors fit when you're done, http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921410

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pictures would be nice, the ones in the link are kinda hard to tell what's been cut and all that

There are a bunch of threads for doing the same thing to the same parts on XJ's if you look around.

I'd like to pull my doors off in the summer, but the issue I have is that for 80% of the year I really need the doors, and I need them to seal. I haven't found anyone else's write up on how to do it yet without cutting the bottom of the hinge off, which seriously compromises the whole sealing thing. I'll be looking further into it this summer.

 

But if you don't care how your doors fit when you're done, http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921410

so wait a minute, if i do the removeable doors i'll cause a seal issue when you close the door? 

 

Redwolf

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There are a bunch of threads for doing the same thing to the same parts on XJ's if you look around.

I'd like to pull my doors off in the summer, but the issue I have is that for 80% of the year I really need the doors, and I need them to seal. I haven't found anyone else's write up on how to do it yet without cutting the bottom of the hinge off, which seriously compromises the whole sealing thing. I'll be looking further into it this summer.

 

But if you don't care how your doors fit when you're done, http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921410

I can relate to needing a good seal :Canadaflag:

 

I just replaces a couple of door pins on an 1998 xj to fix a sagging door problem....used a set of Doorman replacement pins....these ones are not held in place buy flaring the end like factory pins but use an "E" clip.....so by rights...... a couple of pulls with some needle nose pliers and a little pry with the flat screw driver.....and you are in the wind  :thumbsup:

 

326-38423.jpg

 

 

And with some MAD FAB skillz.....you are spiderman......

 

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so wait a minute, if i do the removeable doors i'll cause a seal issue when you close the door? 

 

 

 

Redwolf

 

 

Yes. The doors won't line up the same way as they used to, and will have more degrees of freedom for bouncing up and down as you're driving. The door seals by having a rubber hose smashed between the door and frame, so any movement between the door and the rubber will reduce the effectiveness of the seal. If the door isn't sitting where it should be, then the seal won't work properly either.

I don't imagine it'll be that much of an issue in rain, or anything like that. My concern is mostly having frosty breezes flowing through my cab rather than around it in the winter.

 

 

I just replaces a couple of door pins on an 1998 xj to fix a sagging door problem....used a set of Doorman replacement pins....these ones are not held in place buy flaring the end like factory pins but use an "E" clip.....so by rights...... a couple of pulls with some needle nose pliers and a little pry with the flat screw driver.....and you are in the wind  :thumbsup:

 

326-38423.jpg

 

 

The 97+ hinges aren't the same animal as the 97-down, but I'll look into that. I was thinking of just knocking out the stock pins and replacing with quick pins of the right diameter (maybe turning out some delrin bushings if needed) or straight up bolts.

 

pre-97:

 

97+

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Refine your search to include XJ's and you'll find a plethora of write ups...

 

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/removable-xj-doors-done-easy-cheap-90496/

readin that made me think, i have indoor speakers so i'd have to either disconnect or cut the wires, either way i lose my front speakers, maybe this project will be put on hold untill i can find a sound bar to mount in my MJ,

 

Redwolf

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got to lookin at my MJ's doors and the driver door the hindge pins are slightly put, could i beat those up and out with a hammer and a flathead screwdriver and if so there's my answear to takin my doors off it'll just be a two person job untill a better way is figured out with a good seal and also what is the middle bar for inbetween the 2 hindges as showned in the pic below

 

Redwolf

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so wait a minute, if i do the removeable doors i'll cause a seal issue when you close the door? 

 

 

 

Redwolf

 

 

Yes. The doors won't line up the same way as they used to, and will have more degrees of freedom for bouncing up and down as you're driving. The door seals by having a rubber hose smashed between the door and frame, so any movement between the door and the rubber will reduce the effectiveness of the seal. If the door isn't sitting where it should be, then the seal won't work properly either.

I don't imagine it'll be that much of an issue in rain, or anything like that. My concern is mostly having frosty breezes flowing through my cab rather than around it in the winter.

 

 

I just replaces a couple of door pins on an 1998 xj to fix a sagging door problem....used a set of Doorman replacement pins....these ones are not held in place buy flaring the end like factory pins but use an "E" clip.....so by rights...... a couple of pulls with some needle nose pliers and a little pry with the flat screw driver.....and you are in the wind  :thumbsup:

 

326-38423.jpg

 

 

The 97+ hinges aren't the same animal as the 97-down, but I'll look into that. I was thinking of just knocking out the stock pins and replacing with quick pins of the right diameter (maybe turning out some delrin bushings if needed) or straight up bolts.

 

pre-97:

 

97+

 

Yes I am aware of the difference in doors....I am fortunate enough to have an '87,'88', '93, '97, 2-'98 and a 2000.....When I source a part (unless I am trying to restore something to factory specs) I source what i need not what "they" say to use.... (or I fab it myself)

 

The pins I used were not specifically made for a jeep product....to be honest I do not remember what they where intended for....when I looked for them i simply went with the parameters of a pin of X-amount of length and a shank of x-diameter.....what it was intended for makes no difference if you can make it work for your intended purpose  :thumbsup:

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got to lookin at my MJ's doors and the driver door the hindge pins are slightly put, could i beat those up and out with a hammer and a flathead screwdriver and if so there's my answear to takin my doors off it'll just be a two person job untill a better way is figured out with a good seal and also what is the middle bar for inbetween the 2 hindges as showned in the pic below

 

Redwolf

 

The Middle bar is to open your non twist off refreshment lids with.  :thumbsup:

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so wait a minute, if i do the removeable doors i'll cause a seal issue when you close the door? 

 

Redwolf

 

Yes. The doors won't line up the same way as they used to, and will have more degrees of freedom for bouncing up and down as you're driving. The door seals by having a rubber hose smashed between the door and frame, so any movement between the door and the rubber will reduce the effectiveness of the seal. If the door isn't sitting where it should be, then the seal won't work properly either.

I don't imagine it'll be that much of an issue in rain, or anything like that. My concern is mostly having frosty breezes flowing through my cab rather than around it in the winter.

 

This is only really a issue on 97+'s --you have to drill out the hinges to accept a larger center pin. If you don't they sag and you have issues. However I don't have issues with my 98 and Ive been doorless since the second weekend Ive owned it 3 years ago. I think this this is a myth/ people doing a jankass ghetto redneck hack job. Like I said mine don't leak and neither does my MJ. I wouldnt really stress it Redwolf unless you think youre going to half @$$ it, ya know?

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got to lookin at my MJ's doors and the driver door the hindge pins are slightly put, could i beat those up and out with a hammer and a flathead screwdriver and if so there's my answear to takin my doors off it'll just be a two person job untill a better way is figured out with a good seal and also what is the middle bar for inbetween the 2 hindges as showned in the pic below

 

Redwolf

 

The Middle bar is to open your non twist off refreshment lids with.  :thumbsup:

 

seriously what is it's purpose cause i do have both hindges

 

 

 

 

so wait a minute, if i do the removeable doors i'll cause a seal issue when you close the door? 

 

Redwolf

 

Yes. The doors won't line up the same way as they used to, and will have more degrees of freedom for bouncing up and down as you're driving. The door seals by having a rubber hose smashed between the door and frame, so any movement between the door and the rubber will reduce the effectiveness of the seal. If the door isn't sitting where it should be, then the seal won't work properly either.

I don't imagine it'll be that much of an issue in rain, or anything like that. My concern is mostly having frosty breezes flowing through my cab rather than around it in the winter.

 

This is only really a issue on 97+'s --you have to drill out the hinges to accept a larger center pin. If you don't they sag and you have issues. However I don't have issues with my 98 and Ive been doorless since the second weekend Ive owned it 3 years ago. I think this this is a myth/ people doing a jankass ghetto redneck hack job. Like I said mine don't leak and neither does my MJ. I wouldnt really stress it Redwolf unless you think youre going to half @$$ it, ya know?

 

i aint worked bout doin it half way, i'm just worried bout havin leaks, i leak enough and have enough rust in my cab to fix i don't need more,

 

Redwolf

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Honestly it makes no difference if you modify the hinges or not.  Taking them off and putting them back on as-is will cause door sealing issues, unless you do as you're supposed to and take the time to adjust them properly.  If you just bolt them on and hang the doors, you likely won't even be able to get the pins to line up.  My removable doors shut with a 'chink' and have no leaks at highway speed.  It's all a matter of whether you plan to do the job right, or half-arsed. 

Yxmj, are those dorman replacement pins solid, or hollow like the stock roll pins?  Got a part number?  I've been looking for some good solid pins that I can chamfer so they will slide in a tad easier.  Also I haven't seen it mentioned in any writeups, but it helps if you chamfer the top of the hole in the body-half of the hinge, bevel the bottom of the tab on the door-half (the tab that keeps you from opening the door too far) and cut the upper pin a bit shorter while leaving the lower pin full length.  Makes it much easier to install the doors that way.  Line up the bottom pin first, drop it straight in and the chamfer guides it home, then line up the top pin and drop the door down into position.  2 seconds to hang the doors with no fumbling.  I might get around to uploading a couple pics of my hinges later after dark, I'm busy swapping in an HO at the moment :brows:

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Redwolf

That middle bar is what regulates the detents when you open your door, and keeps the door from slamming shut on you constantly.  I couldn't figure out a good way to keep it when I modified my hinges, and honestly didn't care, so I tossed it out.  If the truck is facing uphill even *slightly* the doors close as soon as you let go of them.  Facing slightly downhill in a parking lot?  Don't let go of the door, it will fall all the way open and bang the shiny car next to you.  That may be an issue for some people, personally I like not having it, makes things simpler and the hinges feel smoother.

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I know some of you may have had sealing issues after the doorless mod, however, I have not had any issues on my '88 XJ since doing the mod nearly 1.5 years ago. 

 

On a separate note, I converted my front power windows to manual, moved the speakers to an overhead bar and used a two-prong quick disconnect for my electric locks (I have keyless entry and wanted to retain that feature when the doors are on).  I even moved the window/lock control switches to the lower dash so that I can still use my rear power windows and locks.

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Honestly it makes no difference if you modify the hinges or not.  Taking them off and putting them back on as-is will cause door sealing issues, unless you do as you're supposed to and take the time to adjust them properly.  If you just bolt them on and hang the doors, you likely won't even be able to get the pins to line up.  My removable doors shut with a 'chink' and have no leaks at highway speed.  It's all a matter of whether you plan to do the job right, or half-arsed. 

 

Yxmj, are those dorman replacement pins solid, or hollow like the stock roll pins?  Got a part number?  I've been looking for some good solid pins that I can chamfer so they will slide in a tad easier.  Also I haven't seen it mentioned in any writeups, but it helps if you chamfer the top of the hole in the body-half of the hinge, bevel the bottom of the tab on the door-half (the tab that keeps you from opening the door too far) and cut the upper pin a bit shorter while leaving the lower pin full length.  Makes it much easier to install the doors that way.  Line up the bottom pin first, drop it straight in and the chamfer guides it home, then line up the top pin and drop the door down into position.  2 seconds to hang the doors with no fumbling.  I might get around to uploading a couple pics of my hinges later after dark, I'm busy swapping in an HO at the moment :brows:

I don't have the door checks either. Hasn't been a problem for me. I think the PO had the doors off regularly.

I know some of you may have had sealing issues after the doorless mod, however, I have not had any issues on my '88 XJ since doing the mod nearly 1.5 years ago. 

 

On a separate note, I converted my front power windows to manual, moved the speakers to an overhead bar and used a two-prong quick disconnect for my electric locks (I have keyless entry and wanted to retain that feature when the doors are on).  I even moved the window/lock control switches to the lower dash so that I can still use my rear power windows and locks.

 

if yall have done it and don't have a leak issue how do some people have leaks and some don't? extra step taken, good hindges? i'd really like to know

 

 

 

Redwolf

That middle bar is what regulates the detents when you open your door, and keeps the door from slamming shut on you constantly.  I couldn't figure out a good way to keep it when I modified my hinges, and honestly didn't care, so I tossed it out.  If the truck is facing uphill even *slightly* the doors close as soon as you let go of them.  Facing slightly downhill in a parking lot?  Don't let go of the door, it will fall all the way open and bang the shiny car next to you.  That may be an issue for some people, personally I like not having it, makes things simpler and the hinges feel smoother.

 

that's what that does?  :rotf:  :rotfl2: that POS doesn't work anyhow then, i always have my doors fall back on my when i'm uphill and the only thing is does downhill is to keep my door from swingin all the way to the fender lol besides, i could always rig somethin like how the TJs have that strap on the doors  :idea:

 

Redwolf

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That bar in the middle doesn't keep the doors from hitting the fender, the hinges have stops builtin for that.  The middle bar just provides a bit of tension so the door will stay either fully open or half open on a slight grade.  The reason my doors seal well, is because when I reattached the hinges to the doors, I spent time and effort to adjust them properly, as they bolt into slotted holes that allow the hinges to be moved around and adjusted as needed to get the door to line up.  This means putting the door on, checking how it fits, taking it back off and loosening/adjusting the hinges, tighten them back up and re-hang the door, check the fit again... eventually if you keep at it you'll get it spot-on.  Keep in mind when you're checking the door that the striker will pull it up or down if you shut it all the way, so you may want to remove the striker while you adjust the hinges, then you'll have to adjust the striker when you put it back on.

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