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Posted

Mine are rusted away my question is do I need to put them back on?? I am worried about weather it will affect the unit bearing spacing.

Posted

They have no effect on bearing spacing. They are necessary to keep crud out of the brake system. Calipers, pads don't work so well if they are jammed up with crud.

Posted

If you're comfortable with tin snips they're quite easy to make yourself. You just have to drill the holes for the wheelbearing hub and cut a circle.

Posted

IIRC, it cost less to ship them individually instead of buying both. :dunno: What's up with that?

Posted

I got rid of mine after a rock found its way in between rotor and shield. Thought I was doing myself a favor ... oh well, won't be the last time I do something dumb ..

Posted

Thanks for the link Hornbrod that`s not to often something from mopar is that cheap. I have been on Cherokee forum looks like allot on there do not use them?

Posted

Jim, do you happen to have a rust free set that you could get mailed quickly?

I've got some. Would be Wed tho before I could get them in the mail.

Posted

 

Jim, do you happen to have a rust free set that you could get mailed quickly?

I've got some. Would be Wed tho before I could get them in the mail.

 

What would you take for them priority mail shipping to 16680.

Posted

If you were close enough to come get them, I'd give them to ya. Since I gotta pull them, $5 for the pair. Don't know what shipping would be.

Posted

Jim, I checked from your zip code to mine 1 pound priority mail (non flat rate) was $6.20 for a 12x12x4" package. How about I paypal $15.00 if its more I will be sure to pay you this way you don't have to make two trips to the post office. And many thanks!

Posted

Jim, I checked from your zip code to mine 1 pound priority mail (non flat rate) was $6.20 for a 12x12x4" package. How about I paypal $15.00 if its more I will be sure to pay you this way you don't have to make two trips to the post office. And many thanks!

 

I think he means a Regional Rate A2 box.

Posted

No just regular priority mail in any box you can find or just wrap cardborad around them and make a box and tape it up good. I bet regional would be very pricey as far as it has to go.

Posted

Necessary for a mainly road driven vehicle.

 

I remove them on every single offroad rig, there is nothing worse than the noise rocks make when they're stuck between a dust shield and rotor.

Posted

Ditto. I take em off. I run slotted rotors with aggressive pads anyway. I NEED my brakes to get a bit hotter for them to work their best.

Posted

Right or wrong I have removed them on my XJ and ran without them for at least 6yrs now. I haven't had an issue.

Posted

Due to road salt, mine are slowly removing themselves... they aren't tin. Hasn't been an issue yet.

 

Ditto. I take em off. I run slotted rotors with aggressive pads anyway. I NEED my brakes to get a bit hotter for them to work their best.

 

Wouldn't leaving the shield on lead to better heat retention? What with less air flow and all?

Posted

Due to road salt, mine are slowly removing themselves... they aren't tin. Hasn't been an issue yet. 

Ditto. I take em off. I run slotted rotors with aggressive pads anyway. I NEED my brakes to get a bit hotter for them to work their best.

 Wouldn't leaving the shield on lead to better heat retention? What with less air flow and all?
.

 

Well.... It depends on what school of thought you follow. During high speed road racing with lots of corners and the appropriate wheels and body work, the shields help push air into the the brake assembly, across/ through the rotor (if vented), and out of am open face wheel. This is augmented many times by cooling air ducts built into the air dam of the vehicle, in effect giving.you a ram-air effect. In my case, I don't push my brakes THAT hard, even while perfoeming chase/support duties. With my vehicle having relatively small, closed face wheels on it most of the time (Canyons taken off of a TJ), and the brakes relying solely on the movement of undirected air across them for cooling, I get a decent balance of cooling and bite by running without the shields. Besides, I live and wheel in the desert, so heat retention is hardly ever an issue. :). One thing to keep in mind, though, if you operate in muddy conditions, it may be best to leave the shields on. No senae in making your pads wipe the mud off the rotors before they can brake.

Posted

Oh, btw, on my MR2 ( which does have air ducts for thr brakes), I do indeed run the shields, along with dimpled and slotted rotors, braided lines, high temp fluid, and very aggressive pads (EBC USR rotors and Yellow Stuff pads). That thing has below average to average braking when cold, but it gets downright violent once the tires and brakes have gotten up to temp.

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