Zenobian_84 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Finally bit the bullet and am going to be tearing apart the dash soon to do a heater core swap. It's gotten clogged to the point where the back-pressure causes the junction valve to back up and spill fluid out (old picture, leakage not shown..) I am wanting to delete this antiquated piece of junk so that the lines are constantly being purged and cycled. How do I go about re-routing the lines? Any tips to share besides throwing the hub into the nearest dumpster when done? :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 You no longer want a heater? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 You no longer want a heater? It was my understanding that the way you re-route the lines will determine if the heater works or not. I still want heat (very rarely will any Floridian say this) but only when I need it. I need to know how to re-route the lines so I will still be able to use the heater when I need to. This is a better picture than what I'm referring to; the thing I want to get rid of. For clarification. Not mine, obviously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue88Comanche Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 He wants to remove the heater valve so that it is always circulating. I have been thinking about doing the same. It won't affect the use of ac because of the air mixer flap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 That is upside down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 He wants to remove the heater valve so that it is always circulating. I have been thinking about doing the same. It won't affect the use of ac because of the air mixer flap. Yeah, so my next question is.......>Do you want heat all the time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 ******Hot water will circulate through the core all the time****** Using that pic as a guide Undo the two clamps on the right hand side of the valve.....undo two clamps that go into the heater core.....undo and cap off vacuum line. Remove valve and 2 stub hoses.........now you will probably need longer hoses.....run them from the engine in and out to the heater core (if you want to save $ just get 2 strait hose joiners and put the stub hoses back on...... Make sense :dunno: *****EDIT******* To answer you question about routing (but if you look at my signiture location as to yours.....I am looking to maximize heat usually) I like to have the hose coming off the t-stat housing to go to the bottom input of the heater core.....the other I hope is self explanatory? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 It goes like this (on a 4.0L but the heater plumbing is the same). I used all 5/8" hose here ... fits fine one circuit, bit tight but doable on the other. And no, the heat is not on all the time ... just saying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 He wants to remove the heater valve so that it is always circulating. I have been thinking about doing the same. It won't affect the use of ac because of the air mixer flap. Yeah, so my next question is.......>Do you want heat all the time? It won't cause heat all the time. It will cause the heater-core to have heat 24/7, But doesnt mean you will be blowing heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 He wants to remove the heater valve so that it is always circulating. I have been thinking about doing the same. It won't affect the use of ac because of the air mixer flap. Yeah, so my next question is.......>Do you want heat all the time? It won't cause heat all the time. It will cause the heater-core to have heat 24/7, But doesnt mean you will be blowing heat. Absolutely correct. NONE of my Jeeps have that problematic valve on them and I live in Arizona and use AC. As long as the blend air door is adjusted properly, you're good to go. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Just a reminder......Make sure you cap off the vac line. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Just a reminder......Make sure you cap off the vac line. :thumbsup: Yes. Thanks for the reminder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 question, by removing the heater valve and running hoses straight into the core, you eliminate the over flow jug, usually if you overheat coolant will piss out of the jug. now that its gone where will the coolant come out if u were to overheat. J/W? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 the 2.5 is an open cooling system IIRC and the overflow bottle is plumbed off the nipple in the rads fill neck. The early 4.0's will require conversion to open cooling (honestly can't remember what my hose mess used to look like). And again the overflow bottle is plumbed off the fill neck (small hose nipple). This only deletes the heater valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 i have the 4.0 closed system i take it is a rad, with no filler cap. and its on a 87 comanche, would that have to be converted to an open system? cuz on the 4.0 pic above i don't see any coolant bottle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Yeah I put the coolant bottle over besdie the air cleaner in that picture (made one out of a fast orange bottle to get me by). Last week I swapped in a HO return bottle over by the ICM and modified brackets to make it all work until I can get a longer lead. Gimme a second and I'll snap a picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Fast orange bottle New system with HO return bottle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue88Comanche Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 New system with HO return bottle and that is your 88 MJ? What all did you move around / modify? I see you fot rid of the renix pressure bottle and put in the HO coolant tank.. Did you move the relays? It just looks very different from my jeep (going off what i can remember) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Yeah I cleaned it up somewhat. I used a HO bracket and bottle and used a part of the Renix bracket to mount the realys beh8nd the bottle. Then the ICM and coil are mounted to half of the old bracket and zap strapped to the bollte to eliminate vibrations for now. I will be using a Grand Cherokee 5.2L coil wire so I can mount the ICM to the fire wall above the heater core in a day or so. The cooling system was replaced with leftovers from a system refresh on my 2000XJ. '00 rad was used, the EGR was NFG so it was removed, the FPR and MAP lines were replaced with 3/16" brakline and I used parts of the EVAP line to rerun the CCV intake line to the aircleaner. I still have to replumb the EVAP line and will be doing so in 3/8" brakeline from the cannister to the intake manifold. It is still plumbed into the tank so I'm one line from done. The heater valve was removed and two lines were run from thermostat housing to heater core directly using 5/8" hose. I simply used my 2000 as a template to follow. I'll run out and grab a picture of the return bottle/ICM setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 do i have to do this or can i just bypass that valve with the two hoses running into the core without putting a return bottle in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Honestly its been a while since I saw my old system ... IIRC the pressure bottle is plumbed into one of the heater lines ... mine was all hard tube and crimped hoses. If you ran a Tee fitting in the appropriate line you should be able to retain the stock pressure bottle I would think. My stock 88 radiator crumbled to dust in my hands so it was all changed out of necessity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 so i need a pressure bottle of some sort can't just put the hoses runnning from t-stat and w/p into the heater core mine is steel tubing with crimped hoses as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 whats IIRC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 my rad is good and there is no filler cap on it, so using my stock rad do i need to use a Tee so the bottle is in use or can that be eliminated, i don't see why i need the bottle i guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 IIRC = If I Recall Correctly Just googled some pics .... looks like you can run from the manifold side termostat housing outlet to the upper pressure bottle fitting. Then run from bottom pressure bottle fitting into heater core lower and from heater core upper back to the steel thermostat fitting under the upper rad hose. That should eliminate the valve and retain the stock pressure bottle. Still too many hoses for my liking and will still be semi painful to burp but should make it easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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