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Posted

if i were to do that wouldnt there be a constant flow through the bottle? if so why couldn't i run hose from t-stat to lower core inlet then hose from upper core outlet to w-pump. it would be a full circuit.

 

so whats the bottle for? reserve fluid or an overflow?

 

srry for asking many questions btw just like to certain before i go and do anything

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Posted

ok ok i thought about it, if i were to do it that way with my bottle it will eliminate that valve and if i were to over heat or what not it would piss out the bottle cap and not blow a hose off or worse. correct?

Posted

Just my 2 cents......why don't you toss in a rad with a cap..and a reservoir (JY Cherokee??)....toss out the pressure bottle on the fire wall and the heater bypass valve...and your good to go with no problems. :dunno:

Posted

nice, that would work

 

this is a great ref. pic of what i might do, ive herd i should drill two holes 180 deg. from each other in the t-stat flange so that it can purge itself with this type of mod

 

10826d1263771465t-88-jeep-cherokee-heatet, 

Posted

what i don't like is how does the coolant flow know when to flow through the core or the jug with them tee in there. like rockfrog said if i didnt put the tee in and just connected the upper jug hose direct to t-stat then lower hose to core and core to pump it would make a full circuit. i like that idea cause in this pic the coolant could still bypass the core go through the jug and to the pump.

Posted

There already is constant flow through the bottle. The valve is there to redirect it through the heater core when you turn on the heat. Otherwise coolant flows though the bottle ... it's a closed loop cooling system. It's not like the usual open loop system that runs an overflow bottle.

Posted

And yeah .... now you know why I did mine the way I did instead of just replacing the rad. Well that and the seven cracks in the pressure bottle. Anyone need a good cap?

Posted

to help visualize if i were to take all this cluster out and by new hoses could i run the *to t-stat* hose directly into the *upper hose* on the jug, connect *lower hose* into the core. then back to w-pump. so there would be no Tee's

 

51120-jeep-coolant-bottle.jpg

Posted

There already is constant flow through the bottle. The valve is there to redirect it through the heater core when you turn on the heat. Otherwise coolant flows though the bottle ... it's a closed loop cooling system. It's not like the usual open loop system that runs an overflow bottle.

exactly so why did they use the tee's when u can just do what u said and make the circuit going through the jug

 

see post#31

Posted
to help visualize if i were to take all this cluster out and by new hoses could i run the *to t-stat* hose directly into the *upper hose* on the jug, connect *lower hose* into the core. then back to w-pump. so there would be no Tee's

 

51120-jeep-coolant-bottle.jpg

Thats ecactly what I was trying to say earlier

Posted

herd about this on here

 

drilling the two holes the t-stat, how does that help get air bubbles out. does this affect the operating temp?

Posted

i know, i know, srry. i understood how u wanted me to route the system i just didnt understand why i couldn't run it directly through the core, is it bec. the bottle will release pressure through the cap if it were to overheat and not blow a hose off or something.

Posted

In 41, drilling a small hole in the thermostat will allow some air to pass through. On one of my more resent threads it was mentioned. There are some that have a little valve that does the same thing, but I could not get one from my parts store with that feature. So I went the small hole route.

 

You will still need to bleed the air out of the system however.

Posted

and how do u go about do that? filling the system, run my truck, check and refill

 

and will them holes affect the warm up time and operating temp. ?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

It goes like this (on a 4.0L but the heater plumbing is the same). I used all 5/8" hose here ... fits fine one circuit, bit tight but doable on the other.

 

 

And no, the heat is not on all the time ... just saying

 

Sorry to bring this up again, but i don't know if anyone answered this: how come i can't just run the hoses direct to the core like above, without running a return bottle?

Posted

Because your coolant expands at temperature. Without the bottle it will just go out to the ground. It could be done but you have to figure out the amount of expansion and under fill accordingly. That's how it was done decades ago. Just have to check coolant regularly.

Its just not kosher to dump coolant into the environment.

I originally modified a fast orange hand cleaner bottle at first ... sqeezed it in beside the air cleaner box.

Posted

oh duh, thanks for the input i guess ill stick with what was mentioned earlier in this thread and run through my OEM jug. and to properly fill my system after this mod, would i fill the rad. and my jug or leave jug empty for the expansion?

Posted

Have some more pics, Blaine. Maybe this'll help shine some light on routing things. This is what I'll be doing to my '88 if it doesn't sell soon since I can drive it anyways until I replace coolant hoses, only I plan on grabbing a factory 91+ coolant bottle from a JY.

 

http://comancheclub.com/topic/24848-open-system/?p=259597

http://comancheclub.com/topic/27068-closed-to-open-cooling-system/?p=278686

Posted

well i know how i want to route it, pretty much was explained earlier, but how would i go about filling the system.

 

my plan is to run t-stat hose to upper inlet on my bottle, run hose from lower outlet of bottle to heater core, and the core back to w-pump.

 

so with this mod would i just fill the radiator, or do i fill the bottle as well?

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