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Time to unload more photos,

i thought i would have built up more photos by now


at this current time i have down graded my tires to 37's from 40's, the 40's were too unsafe to street



here is an aspect photo of a stock xj with taller tires and my truck 10" lift, 37's






then me goofing off on the side of a trail, walk around poser shots (high tire psi because i was just out for a stroll)











the only winter time shots i had gotten, (co pilot takes pics, so without him i just wheel)

i had done alot of recovery's this winter, and alot of winching myself

snow conditions sucked












my truck got abused this winter, i stumbled onto a hiking trail and had no options but to keep on going through

so I'm in the midst of doing alot of straigtening, swapping to 97+ doors


i picked up some fenders and a front clip for dirt cheap, so i did my best at color matching. i think it looks spot on


while swapping fenders out i decided i was going to do the quick pin mod,

super straight forward. only thing i did differently was i DID NOT cut the lower tang.

i see no point in doing so, you put more stress on the only remaining tang, plus i can still line the door up and remove/install it the way it is



the new front clip i picked up was the later 3 peice style for the trim.

i do not like the way it looks so ive been drilling and modifying the older trim style to fit the newer clip. it looks cleaner IMO



i have had my double apart and did more mods to it. i want to put a lock pin shift kit into it (it has the tendency to pop out of gear while coasting down hill)












here's a photo shoot of a comanche that showed up to buy some parts off me!!

its got the cancer real good but still looks badass!









this is all i have for now. plan to repaint sometime and do an exo. when life permits


more pics when i start digging into it more

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slight update.

work keeps me BUUUUUUUSY, no time to play or tinker at all.




finished re drilling and mounting the old style trim on new style front clip ( i hate the crappy 3 piece plastic front clips, they look cheap and hoakey)


fixed my train horn.


mounted a new to me drivers door, with power everything, and finished shimming it. still need to create a quick disconnect wiring harness for it (going to use the two rear window switches as FRONT AND REAR WINCH CONTROLLERS!!!!! obviously,  i will create a lock out switch so i do not accidentally bump the winches when not needed, and a proper relayed fused harness)


rebuilt my track bar (oem bushing was bored out to a .500 dia bolt, but it had too much slop in the elastomer, and the sleeve was to thin afterwards) so i pressed the elastomer out keeping the outer bushing in tact,

machined down some poly urethane to size. tapered the ends of them and pressed them in for an interference fit (took a few tons to get them in) and then cut down an inner sleeve out of solid steel to fit, no crappy rolled inner sleeve.  with a perfect diameter  bolt matched to the inner diameter of the sleeve for ZERO lash. sleeve also pressed in for an interference  fit


inspected and greased my tie rods and ball joints


removed my locking hubs, hubs, and spindles. replaced all the seals. inspected and re packed the bearings, and set wheel bearings for proper preload while spinning the tires


removed my front diff cover, inspected cleaned and resealed my front diff and topped the fluids back up




LOTS more to do, i let the old girl in pieces and wheeled the tits out of her.


new box next month from a member 5 1/2 hours away. so box bob will have to be done.


i am working on having a straight truck. front clip fenders and doors now all have no dents. two dents on the cab to pull. and the new box has zero dents as well.



will be copying reson46's body armor upgrades and steel fenders. and h3resq's roll cage with a little more tie in's to the front for more structual support. but thats when i  can afford doing so.

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finally have some pictures! not many but thats okay.



TRUCK LIVES, made it out of the shop i had it stuffed away in.

still need to do more, trim fenders, install flair's

some wiring, alignment, welding ect. but its out of the shop!!!!!




she is back on 40's


doorless mod, i did mine with quick pins, i do not like how most people cut the lower tang off, i think that's hokey, with a little more effort you can utilize the entire bracket like it was designed for, it does take a min to align the holes and drop the pins through, but hey, it works
upgraded locking hubs ( i took auto locking hubs, and cut the auto locking clutch off to make locking hubs) 
warn premium locking hubs are crap, ive broken too many of them, yes i know this is due to it being an external hub setup, this is my fix
new upgraded ups on top, crappy old hubs underneath
both transfercases torn apart, and gone through, i like to do this once a year.
new tires i pretty much stole for the price i paid for them
the best i could do to shim my new power door, top corner dips in more than i like, but i havent found a way to fix that yet
more to come, soon ill have some wheeling photos!

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bump! here's some more pictures,
at this point the truck is 3wd. havent installed my rcv axle shafts yet!
I'm in a slight rush to get a few things done. have a annual club run i want to make this year, we shall see if it will get there and back.
some of the things on my list include

rear shocks
new rear disc conversion (current rear disc conversion is hard to find parts for)
remove steering box and drill/tap for hydro assist
install steering box brace uppon reinstall of steering box
new pitman arm
get beadlocks powdercoated, tires mounted/internally balanced
install rcv axle shafts
make sure both winches are fully operational
change all fluids
grease everything, pull inspect repack wheel bearings
some spray bomb and bed liner
find and repair vaccum leak
fuse box replacement

clean, clean and clean. get my spares ready

now where i left on in my last post

made it out of the shop i was in, and brought it to the hangar to mock trim and fit the fender flairs.
i ended up cutting good portion of the inner lip out of the bushwackers. so my tires can tuck in, and not distort my fenders at all


took it out for its shake down run, not used to it, realizing how hot it can get. took advantage of the doorless mod


then, i got a little cocky and found a road less travelled


once i made it out of there, i didnt let that stop me and i kept exploring this new to me area
as you can see my winch is off in the next few photos. i had a ground wire break inside the winch relay bank. so it was off for trouble shooting.


had a little break down on the side of the fsr.
upper rad hose blew off and pumped a good portion of my rad out.
luckily i had enough fluids and parts. so after about 5 minutes of tinkering i was off once again



some iron man 4x4 fab parts i picked up



at one point my fuel pump died, so i had to tow it to my work, so this random lady helped me get my truck back to the hangar


i then purchased a delphi fuel pump as a replacement, some modification to the pump houseing was required.
i also had to trim the lower strainer flange off to fit on the new updated pump

the new pump is almost a 1/4 of the size of the old one!!!


some how, i lost my keys at somepoint 4x4ing. so... there i was. no keys, but inluck. a hatchet and screwdriver to get me up and running again.
i ofcourse kept going after this.


then just some winter fun, plus canadian tire grooving in the winter


thats all for now. will post when i have more stuff accomplished

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i had no guidance to the install because the axle set i use is very uncommon


Spicer Dana 44 for a IH Scout II.

this is my install guide tips



after installing the drivers side (any stock scout this would be passenger side shaft, retubed and sleved for drivers pumpin)

i realized i had not taken any photos.


so here's it installed







now, passenger side install. i ended up having to remove my knuckle entirely. prior to this,

rcv has instructions for CV boot clearance. you need to trim the lower balljoint stud almost flush with the nut at this point.


afterwards, i ended up trimming the stud some more, added a taper the inboard side (you'll see shortly)

trimming the axle C's to allow the stud past

removing the top spindle stud

and trimming /tapering the back side (bottom) of the upper ball joint.


assemble the CV fully minus boot (tip, use a heat gun to soften the boot for first install) to the CV


slide it all together, get the upper ball joint in first ( have to back off the preload sleeve all the way first, i made my socket from a 3/8 drive 20 mm socket and a dremel, and patience"

then wiggle the shaft inboard while guiding the lower ball joint into place.


use a close tolerance 1 1/8 wrench to initially tighten lower bj. the rest is simple . put it all back together


Let me tell you. after the install. i would have rather just bought a set of one tonnes, but now i know






new vs old






knuckle ready to be removed, lower ball joint stud trimmed at this time







shaft in, and ball joint trimmed





now you can see how tight this is. if you are not comfortable trimming parts. then your not going to install the shafts







now once, you've got past the screaming and swearing on getting the knuckle and shaft in place, all thats left is to tighten everything up. and test them out!!

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truck is still going strong! and still loosing coil springs




it hasnt seen much trail time since last july. work got crazy, and life took me a different direction.

as of February 13th though, i was in a skiing accident, in which i incurred a brain injury from. 

havent touched a wrench or wiped grease off a helicopter since. currently on medical leave, looking to change careers once i am able to do so with my injury.


that being said, things have been great, and the truck got alot of needed maintenance done to it.

currently waiting on a new rear disc conversion from tsm mfg before i can wheel some more

i am also in the process of sprucing up my onboard air system and cleaning, rerouting and looming wiring in the engine bay



keep on bending steering stabilizers (dimples are Precision internal pressure adjustment, not for the faint of heart, varied results)
after busting my last one, i have sucessfully been streeting the truck on 40's without any death wobble.
(i have increased the torque on all steering/axle related items to 150-160 ft lbs torque)


iron man 4x4 fab sector shaft support and steering box brace, with the prior installed track bar

(wires and air lines have been cleaned up, rerouted and loomed post photo)


bead locks out of powdercoat, all new hardware.
(all held 9 psi of air except one tire, from july 17 2017 to when i picked it up in may of this year, i think that is excellent)




before and after



new hubs to compliment the rims!


dealing with broken wire at the firewall connector,
12 v source to the ignition switch to be exact (broke right at firewall)
i spent a good hour cleaning out each side of the connector. my electrical works GREAT now, everything is function once again
at the same time i did a headlight upgrade due to my hacked steering column and put a kill switch in the truck\



apex 2017 (not many photos, event poorly organized from previous years)

(the black truck was not able to support the tounge weight, poser pic)




(i have since relocated the postistion of the bilstien 5150 in front, allowing 2 1/2"+ more up travel.)

camping may long





random last years






more cool stuff to come

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Bummer about the knock on the noggin! Sounds like the upside of being on leave is youre getting paid (albeit less than work wage) to work on your truck.

I had wondered if you were a skier/boarder given where you live (I work at Mt Baker).


Heal up!



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I often think of the history and evolution of some vehicles with my job and this truck always comes to mind. Very cool to still see it around!

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things just got cooler,

i forgot my phone in my car yesterday, upon checking it. i had 6 missed calls and 5 texts.


my jeep bud is freaking out,

so i made the drive the the scrap yard.


needless to say, I went to work and showed back up this morning and pulled er out.


here's the only real dent on the box! it will be addressed when i bob it









and here's my on board air preoiler setup!
its installed again in the truck. just need to finish replacing the airlines to it.


i also ended up removing my vaccuum tank, i only use the blower motor control unit off of it so i plumbed that line directly off the manifold



disc brake conversion should be here tomorrow.


more photos to come

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my brakes came in last week!

the reasons why i went to this style of disc conversion:

one bracket broken on old setup. only one caliper in the rear 

e brake levers to stay legal were non existant

serviceability wasnt the greatest.

they were just plain tired


new style disc allows rotors go go over studs and seat on external axle flange.

gives me another 3/8 of an inch width to the rear on each side!



brackets actually are the new axle bearing and seal retainer. i left my custom cut ones on for extra measure (had the thickness doubled of oem) but the old retainers are no longer needed.


the T bolts given in the kit for the axle flange lack in quality. they stretch easily so i replaced them with grade 8 hardware instead.


look not bad either


i ended up getting extended wheel studs than what was suggested.

i ran into the issue where my wheel spacers were not in safety.


somewhat unnerving to see not even a single thread of wheel stud coming out of the nut

so longer studs it was. infact... they were so long i had to lob a good 3/8th off each one so i could bolt the tires back on! (totally okay with this, atleast my wheel studs are in proper safety)



















will get some more pictures rolling soon!

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not much new,
truck went out a few times and i had to reseal the rear outer axle flanges after the disc install, it was apparent that they were leaking onto the new rotors.



have a new set of bilstiens for the front, i have to relocate the lower mounting flanges

just trying to get the suspension to cycle correctly with them with their larger body length. i may return them though for a stiffer valved shock.  possibly in a newer " short body "


took my mom out 4x4ing for her first time ever. she LOVED it!

had to take a 2 step for her lol 







have been spending too much time on my buddys 4 runner. full re wire and i have been meticulously polishing and cleaning/parts fab




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9 hours ago, jbain said:

Love the truck and all the pics!  





here's some pics from yesterday.



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back in june i lost my rear passenger bushwhacker down some 100+ KM of FSR

still havent found it (maybe if i go back that way i will, LOL)


i ended up getting a message from one of the local clubs telling me to get my junk together and get wheeling

so i tossed a set of shocks in the front and put some garden trim on to keep me from getting pulled over






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after getting everything packed i made it out to apex at 3:30 am

spent the day there, checked out some gold mines and drove home



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it definitely was a scenic trip!

i had such a good time i made it back again in august to do some more exploration and run some of the trails

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the drive back from apex was pretty rough, so i decided to look into what was the culprit.

first thing i found was my upper control arm mount! 






at this point, i replaced all upper control arm bushings, repaired the control arm mount and effected area on the frame



i also picked up some TJ bushwackers, the netted more coverage then the XJ ones. i now have to take them off when i go down trails


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afterwards, i tore the interior apart, acquired the remaining trim pieces needed from a donor Comanche to finish the interior.

i striped every panel out, replaced every insert and fastener for the trim pieces. (no pics of them but i swear they are installed)

gave the cab a good wash. and proceeded to chase my interior wiring gremlins. i was able to gain full function of my interior lights after soldering in some new wire.


i may have even steam cleaned the seats, you should have seen the amount of  dirt that came out of them



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onto the engine bay i went, gave it a good clean, and re routed/relocated some things (at this point the stock airbox still remains, i want to relocate it into the wiper cowl)

 i ended up routing the front airline and winch power side by side on the passenger frame in the end. for some reason i only take mid way pics and no finals haha

every bare wire was loomed


i relocated my washer fluid reservoir to my truck box and my and over flow reservoir behind my bumper


also at this time i added more stickers to my window, as a bandaid

and replaced my lower control arm bushings they are from a dodge ram 3500




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I ended up replacing the track bar bushing at the same time as all the control arm bushings.

at this point i "should" have been death wobble free.

so i go for a rip down the road and one bump, death wobble, baaaaaaaaad

finally fed up with it occurring even thought i replaced everything in the front end within 1500 km of each other 

found the culprit 




i tore the front apart and starteda repair,










i took some DOM and used a reamer to obtain a true .625 ID for the new hardware.

i then used a unibit and opened the inside of the frame up just enough to install the sleeves.welded it all together and i was able to drive 90 mph on 40's without a steering stabilizer

(could have gone faster but didnt want an impound or roll the damn thing)






this is my repair in final before it was welded onto the frame.

like i said i don't have final pictures ever







this repair was finished at 5pm 

and i had just enough time to load all my camping gear up and head back to APEX


on the way there the cherokee i was with rear ended me and his radiator ate my clevis hahahahahaha

this was at 9:30 pm, by 10:30 he showed back up with a radiator in one hand an angle grinder in the other. 

rolling by 11 PM and made it to camp at 1 AM!!!!!!!!!!



on the road we are! 




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