JENSSEN Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Case study 1994 Grand Cherokee, 271,XXX Kms on the odometer, 4.0L auto. Scenario oil was changed 2 days ago. Day one: on start up idle is rough like timing is retarded. Next lifer/rocker tick is evident. Day two: oil pressure is 2-3 bars low at idle and at 3,000rpm not reading at even the half way point on the OEM gauge. Idle and lifter/rocker tick is worse. So I decided to pull the "partsmaster" filter as it all began after the oil change,.. It was VERY hot to the touch that had me thinking,.. With the stock pile of Jeeps I have at the house I have some good quality filters always in stock. So when I removed the filter I compared it to a quality Baldwin filter. I replaced the "partsmaster" filter with the Baldwin, replaced the lost oil and ran the same tests. The Jeep responded very positively and idle oil pressure is higher than 3,000 rpm pressue with the old filter. We have regained previous oil pressure before the change , noise and odd idle seem to be corrected for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffN Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 I only use Wix filters for that exact reason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 The mystery filter must be made by FRAM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 I use the Purolator Pur-One filters for that reason. Not all filters are created equal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 http://minimopar.net/oilfilters/index.html Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Super critical to use good quality oil filters on our rigs with the upside down mounting. Thanks for posting that up. Mighta saved an engine or two for some of the readers here in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 parts master are the same as low grade purolator or wix IIRC, an in-stock item at bumper to bumper. I run them all the time with no issues, but it is possible you had a defective one. I run, in this order, best to worst depending on what I can get at the time I need to do the change, if I'm in a pinch; Mopar Wix Purolator Parts Master I will not run Fram, K&N, etc. the last FRAM I had come on a jeep (seems I ALWAYS buy them with FRAM filters and that always puts the price lower for me), I cut apart. the paper element was mush, looked like a pile of snot, and there was no check valve inside to keep the oil from dropping back down through the filter once the engine was off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 parts master are the same as low grade purolator or wix IIRC, an in-stock item at bumper to bumper. I run them all the time with no issues, but it is possible you had a defective one. I run, in this order, best to worst depending on what I can get at the time I need to do the change, if I'm in a pinch; Mopar Wix Purolator Parts Master I will not run Fram, K&N, etc. the last FRAM I had come on a jeep (seems I ALWAYS buy them with FRAM filters and that always puts the price lower for me), I cut apart. the paper element was mush, looked like a pile of snot, and there was no check valve inside to keep the oil from dropping back down through the filter once the engine was off. Here's how The Napa/Wix deal was explained to me by my buddy at Napa. ALL the Wix filters are good. The anti-drainback valves and amount of filtering media are different between the Silver, Gold, and Platinum. All have good quality media and ADBVs. The Gold and Platinum have their ADBVs made from a better material than the Silver so they hold up to the longer interval. Silver is good for 3500 mile changes, Gold for 7500 intervals, and Platinum for extended changes using synthetic oils. I use Silver and change every 3500 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomguy310 Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 what's wrong with k&ns? I always heard they filter down to the lowest micron, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 You know the other day when I went to buy my oil and filter from advance auto parts.always have great sales on oil. I got the regular oil but it had a fram filter to go with it...I asked the guy if he can get me another filter and he says that I could upgrade filters for a 1$ extra for the high mileage one.or 2$ for the synthetic filter which was a purolater platinum filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 You know the other day when I went to buy my oil and filter from advance auto parts.always have great sales on oil. I got the regular oil but it had a fram filter to go with it...I asked the guy if he can get me another filter and he says that I could upgrade filters for a 1$ extra for the high mileage one.or 2$ for the synthetic filter which was a purolater platinum filter. Hope you went for it. Fram sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Of course! Thanks for this site I decided to never use fram and ask if there were other brands that were brought with the sale to ask who makes the brand and what materials are used inside..... I mean the guys at the auto parts have to know right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 I use a roll of toilet paper placed in a canister I took off grandpa's 1927 International farm tractor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Oh dear, the only thing that people ever agree on in terms of oil filters is do not use Fram products under any circumstance ever if you remotely care about your engine. I use Bosch filters without trouble. They sure look better on the engine than that ugly orange can of death too. On K&N stuff: I'm of the opinion that their 'performance' gimmick is nothing but marketing and has little to no effect on actual operation of the vehicle. Jim's toilet paper is probably better at keeping crap out of engines than a K&N air filter and I don't imagine the oil filters are much better. Purolator and Bosch are the way to go for oil filters if you ask me. Anything but K&N for air filters. Another thing you should know: I feel like a master mechanic nearly every time I go into a parts store and I'm 17. Don't ever bet your life on the knowledge of a parts monkey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Oh dear, the only thing that people ever agree on in terms of oil filters is do not use Fram products under any circumstance ever if you remotely care about your engine. I use Bosch filters without trouble. They sure look better on the engine than that ugly orange can of death too. On K&N stuff: I'm of the opinion that their 'performance' gimmick is nothing but marketing and has little to no effect on actual operation of the vehicle. Jim's toilet paper is probably better at keeping crap out of engines than a K&N air filter and I don't imagine the oil filters are much better. Purolator and Bosch are the way to go for oil filters if you ask me. Anything but K&N for air filters. Another thing you should know: I feel like a master mechanic nearly every time I go into a parts store and I'm 17. Don't ever bet your life on the knowledge of a parts monkey. I usually look the parts up at home so I can just tell them what part number I need. On the few occasions I forget, after 5 minutes of back and forth they usually give up and hand me the keyboard... p- So what vehicle do I put that under for warranty? m- 1987 Jeep Comanche. p- No, really. m- 1987 Jeep Comanche. p- That part is not for a Jeep Comanche. m- That is what it's going on, p- It won't fit. m- Trust me, it fits. p- "No vehicle given". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomguy310 Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 ive never had a issue with k&n air cleaners.. have then run them in some of the siltiest places in the desert never an issue and ive been doing that over 20 yrs, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 I use a roll of toilet paper placed in a canister I took off grandpa's 1927 International farm tractor. I do too, only I use it as my compressed air filter in my shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Oh dear, the only thing that people ever agree on in terms of oil filters is do not use Fram products under any circumstance ever if you remotely care about your engine. I use Bosch filters without trouble. They sure look better on the engine than that ugly orange can of death too. On K&N stuff: I'm of the opinion that their 'performance' gimmick is nothing but marketing and has little to no effect on actual operation of the vehicle. Jim's toilet paper is probably better at keeping crap out of engines than a K&N air filter and I don't imagine the oil filters are much better. Purolator and Bosch are the way to go for oil filters if you ask me. Anything but K&N for air filters. Another thing you should know: I feel like a master mechanic nearly every time I go into a parts store and I'm 17. Don't ever bet your life on the knowledge of a parts monkey. I usually look the parts up at home so I can just tell them what part number I need. On the few occasions I forget, after 5 minutes of back and forth they usually give up and hand me the keyboard... p- So what vehicle do I put that under for warranty? m- 1987 Jeep Comanche. p- No, really. m- 1987 Jeep Comanche. p- That part is not for a Jeep Comanche. m- That is what it's going on, p- It won't fit. m- Trust me, it fits. p- "No vehicle given". I too always get the part number for what I want online then call ahead and have the part waiting on the counter so I don't have to deal too much with the parts drones. They have tunnel vision; everything's in black and white to them. For instance I went to my local Autozone for a new Duralast Gold battery. The 1997 and up XJs used the 34-DLG (Group 34) batteries; the 1996 and below used the 8-DLG (Group 58) batteries. They both have to same battery tray, and both fit the MJ with no problems. The group 34 battery is rated at 800 CCA (cold cranking Amps), the group 58 is rated at 610 CCA so that's a no-brainer. The drone didn't want to warranty the battery because his computer said so, so I had him look up the battery for a 97 XJ, then no problem. :shake: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomguy310 Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 that's funny I have a k&n oil breather for the filter on my shop comp.. had to mill a piece of billet alum to make it fit to replace the old piece of what ever they had in it, been on it for years works fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Oh dear, the only thing that people ever agree on in terms of oil filters is do not use Fram products under any circumstance ever if you remotely care about your engine. I use Bosch filters without trouble. They sure look better on the engine than that ugly orange can of death too. On K&N stuff: I'm of the opinion that their 'performance' gimmick is nothing but marketing and has little to no effect on actual operation of the vehicle. Jim's toilet paper is probably better at keeping crap out of engines than a K&N air filter and I don't imagine the oil filters are much better. Purolator and Bosch are the way to go for oil filters if you ask me. Anything but K&N for air filters. Another thing you should know: I feel like a master mechanic nearly every time I go into a parts store and I'm 17. Don't ever bet your life on the knowledge of a parts monkey. I usually look the parts up at home so I can just tell them what part number I need. On the few occasions I forget, after 5 minutes of back and forth they usually give up and hand me the keyboard... p- So what vehicle do I put that under for warranty? m- 1987 Jeep Comanche. p- No, really. m- 1987 Jeep Comanche. p- That part is not for a Jeep Comanche. m- That is what it's going on, p- It won't fit. m- Trust me, it fits. p- "No vehicle given". I too always get the part number for what I want online then call ahead and have the part waiting on the counter so I don't have to deal too much with the parts drones. They have tunnel vision; everything's in black and white to them. For instance I went to my local Autozone for a new Duralast Gold battery. The 1997 and up XJs used the 34-DLG (Group 34) batteries; the 1996 and below used the 8-DLG (Group 58) batteries. They both have to same battery tray, and both fit the MJ with no problems. The group 34 battery is rated at 800 CCA (cold cranking Amps), the group 58 is rated at 610 CCA so that's a no-brainer. The drone didn't want to warranty the battery because his computer said so, so I had him look up the battery for a 97 XJ, then no problem. :shake: It's very unfortunate, but it's the world we currently live in. If Tab A doesn't fit in slot B like the instruction manual says, then it doesn't fit. No one is capable of thinking outside the box...that apparently takes too much effort and doesn't follow the "rules." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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