neohic Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Looks all too familiar: Speaking of which... any updates on that pile of wires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 It's about 90% complete. I was planning on bringing that truck down to MD from NJ this summer to finish up the swap. Every time I go up to my parents place in NJ I'll tinker with it a bit. Haven't taken any pictures but there wouldn't be much to look at. Last I remember I had headlights, turn signals, headlights, starter relay, washer motor and horn working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Damm dude a working horn? You are doing better than my VW right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 Baby steps.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 pictures remind me rewiring the mj. chased every wire. looking good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 After a long and arduous search of the intarwebs, I conceded and purchased this: http://www.ozon.ru/context/detail/id/5139592/ I was able to find some pictures and scans of this manual and it does, in fact, contain the wiring information that I'm looking for. Unfortunately, it's in Russian so I'll have Google Translate close by. Luckily, the color codes on the wiring diagrams are still in English. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 After a long and arduous search of the intarwebs, I conceded and purchased this: http://www.ozon.ru/context/detail/id/5139592/ I was able to find some pictures and scans of this manual and it does, in fact, contain the wiring information that I'm looking for. Unfortunately, it's in Russian so I'll have Google Translate close by. Luckily, the color codes on the wiring diagrams are still in English. Are you getting a paper copy or a PDF? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 Paper. Normally I prefer paper copies over PDF, except in this case. With a PDF, I could copy and paste the Russian into Google and get an instant translation. Now I'm going to have to type it in manually using a virtual Russian keyboard - more time consuming and more error-prone, but still doable. Although I may be able to get a very good hi-res scan of each page and have Adobe detect the words. I've done that before with English scans, never anything in a different language. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 I've got basic skills in Russian if you need help with any of it. Can't say I'm anywhere near fluent though, and my dictionaries are excellent but published in '52... But at least I can read it and translate individual words and work out grammatical structures if you're having issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 8, 2013 Author Share Posted May 8, 2013 Appreciate the offer. Might throw up a few scans on here if I can't figure out the translations myself. Still trying to obtain an electronic PDF copy of this manual. I found this on the Autodata website: http://www.autodata.ru/pdf/3553.pdf It's a PDF of the table of contents of the book I just ordered so it looks like an electronic version may exist. Going to contact these guys and see if they'll sell me the whole thing. Already translated the TOC and it's looking like it has the exact wiring diagrams I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 If you are looking for parts from the U.K. I would give Ryan on the TDIClub a shout. He seems to have DHL shipping figured out. How did this engine get imported to the U.S.? Any idea of the weight for the engine and transmission? Why this engine instead of the VW ALH? Parts would be easy with the VW. JJ I have some access to alldata, but it doesn't have what I'm looking for - only has domestic US vehicles. Still looking if I can get my hands on a European or Japanese version. Obviously, parts will be an issue. Luckily, this same powerplant is used in European Mazda 3, 5, 6, MPV, and some others. I've already been able to source critical engine component parts (timing belt, tensioner, alternator, injectors, injector pump) from outfits in the United Kingdom and Germany. I'm going to pay out the whazoo for shipping, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Got connections in the UK that may be able to help me out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 8, 2013 Author Share Posted May 8, 2013 Already have one VW ALH engine in my '02 Golf - wanted something different. Thanks for the heads up with the TDIClub guy - I may be giving him a shout if I can't get reasonable shipping rates on some of the other vendors I have found. This engine got imported with a crate of other JDM engines. You can't import the entire vehicle for safety reasons, but you can ship the thing over in pieces and there are currently no regulations in place for that. Couldn't tell you what the exact weight is, but I would put it somewhere between 550-600 lb (with manual transmission) just based on how my engine hoist reacted when yanking it off the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 8, 2013 Author Share Posted May 8, 2013 Also, it's roughly the same size as the VW ALH and same material construction (cast iron block, aluminum head) so it should be about the same weight, I would think....at least in the ballpark. Also doesn't have a cast aluminum oil pan like the ALH...silly Germans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 A nice gentleman (Comrade) from Russia gave me a few pointers...as well as a couple of diagrams. Couple hours of Google Translate and... That was my first time firing it up. Keep in mind that I had already spent hours shooting in the dark and taking guesses on how this thing was wired so I had already had it fully primed. Also bought a little low pressure fuel transfer pump (you can see it mounted under the fuel tank). Don't think it's necessary, but don't think it will hurt either. You'll notice that as soon as the engine fired up, it took off like a bat out of hell. This is a drive-by-wire engine and I already verified that when the essential electronic accelerator pedal is missing, the intake butterfly valve goes to wide open so I had a very good inclination that the engine was going to peg high like it did and I had my right hand positioned to kill it as quick as possible. I'm going to rig up a pot to serve as the accelerator pedal until I can get my hands on one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 Most drive by wire accelerator pedals have two voltage signals output to the ECM. Some use parallel votage signals that both go up the same amount but at different levels, others use opposite voltage, one goes pos, the other goes neg. I don't think a simple variable resistor or pot will do what your looking to do. But I could be wrong. Cool project and keep up the good work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 I think you may be right. After looking at the wiring diagrams for the accelerator pedal it looks as though the ECM is feeding it a voltage and there are two variable resistors in the accelerator pedal that are on two different outputs - both feeding a resistance back to the ECM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Researched the accelerator pedal position sensor some more. The pedal that came with the Mazda Bongo has two sensors in it feeding the ECM a similar voltage. If the sensors differ in voltage by 0.9V or more, the ECM determines there is a fault and illuminates a MIL. I'm guessing that the pedal has two sensors so that if one fails, the other can keep on going. I also found that a MIL will illuminate if either sensor dips below 0.3V or goes above 4.7V. So, in theory, I should be able to feed the ECM a 0-5V signal on one of the senor signal wires to get the throttle to open and close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Seems odd to me that with a 0v condition, the throttle defaults to wide open. For safety reasons, if the pedal signal was lost, you would have a runaway. What am I missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Seems odd to me that with a 0v condition, the throttle defaults to wide open. For safety reasons, if the pedal signal was lost, you would have a runaway. What am I missing? I thought the same. Seems like a very unsafe condition that could cause a runaway engine (ahem...toyota...ahem). There may be more to it than what I've figured out so far. I do know that the 5V ground circuit runs through the accelerator pedal (missing on my engine) and goes through the MAF (also missing). Still seems strange that if there is any disturbance to the accelerator pedal wiring, the throttle defaults open... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 I forgot we are dealing with a diesel. The only reason a diesel needs a throttle is to create vacuum for proper egr operation. Actual throttle operation goes through the pcm to either control the injection pump or the common rail injectors. The actual intake on a diesel is wide open all the time as a matter of design. The thing that changes engine speed is the changing of air fuel ratio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 I need to look into it some more. Some of the Mazda workshop manuals are unique in the sense they will go through and explain the operation of each system, rather than just telling you how to take it apart and put it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 I forgot we are dealing with a diesel. The only reason a diesel needs a throttle is to create vacuum for proper egr operation. Actual throttle operation goes through the pcm to either control the injection pump or the common rail injectors. The actual intake on a diesel is wide open all the time as a matter of design. The thing that changes engine speed is the changing of air fuel ratio.The KJ CRD uses the valve for EGR operation, like you mentioned, but also during shutdown to smooth the engine out. There are all sorts of debates about it being used as a safety device for overspeed/runaway conditions with nothing conclusive out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 What could Moscow possibly be sending me? Only the holy grail for this engine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Factory service manual, maintenance shedule, diagnostics and a parts catalogue, all rolled into one? Cool. I may be wrong on some of that... my dictionary (circa 1952) doesn't have some of those words... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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