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Extremely Rusted Floor, Suggestions Please!


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I think I've sent this "rust" thing you people speak of......not too sure what to do about it.

 

 

 

Yeah, I'd cut more out and replace it and only POR over good looking bare metal.

 

Yes, this.

Rust never sleeps, the small stuff will get bigger. Trust me on this. 33 years in Vermont taught me something.

 

And the new liquid ice melting crap is worse than salt.

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The thing about stainless is that it's a lot softer than "regular" steel, unless it's not all that stainless. I'm not sure I'd want it for the frame... a lot of expense for not much benefit, imo. Stainless may not rust as quickly as "regular" steel, but it still does rust.

This comes from my experience with knives, so I don't really know how well it would extend to frames, but the higher-quality (more rust-proof) stainlesses won't hold an edge as well as a carbon steel blade. You can't get a stainless knife to the point where you can shave with it, it's just too soft, but you can quite easily get a carbon steel blade to that point.

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Thats funny :hmm: , then why is it so difficult to drill through a sheet of stainless compared to a sheet of mild steel? I have had the exact opposite experience with stainless, it being far harder than any other mild steel. Drill bits won't touch it, hacksaw won't cut it, and they eat grinding wheels like they aint even there. :hmm:

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Stainless is far from being soft. I have no idea whee you get that info from, but it's wrong. 1/16th stainless is twice as strong as 1/16th steel...and hard to bend, too

 

As for cost, a 4x8 sheet of 1/16th is under $200.....less than you would spend on a xj floor pan.

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In the Philippines they have been building stainless Jeeps of various sizes and configurations since WWII. I had one similar to this with a Chebby 327 and Muncie tranny for a D/D. Was an absolute blast. The frame was steel, but you could get stainless frames too.

 

16022008247de3.jpg

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Stainless is far from being soft. I have no idea whee you get that info from, but it's wrong. 1/16th stainless is twice as strong as 1/16th steel...and hard to bend, too

 

As for cost, a 4x8 sheet of 1/16th is under $200.....less than you would spend on a xj floor pan.

 

Probably stripped a few stainless philips head screws.....that would be my guess on where someone would think stainless is soft..

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Thats funny :hmm: , then why is it so difficult to drill through a sheet of stainless compared to a sheet of mild steel? I have had the exact opposite experience with stainless, it being far harder than any other mild steel. Drill bits won't touch it, hacksaw won't cut it, and they eat grinding wheels like they aint even there. :hmm:

Hmm, I'll have to look into that. I was told that a stainless blade is too soft to hold a razor edge, and I've never been able to get one onto a stainless blade. Maybe it's just too hard to sharpen properly? Now I'm confused, because you're definitely right about it being harder to work with...

 

Damn, a quick google search confirmed exactly that, stainless is just a b*@$£ to sharpen. Now I've got to go figure out who told me that stainless was soft and slap them silly. :thwak:

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My kitchen knives and tools are Cutco...high carbon stainless steel. Have been using them for 20+ years and they are still as sharp as when I bought them. They were expensive but well worth it, lifetime warranty and made in the USA.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just thought I'd update ... thanks for everyone's suggestions!! Here is the driver side as it sits now. I don't currently have pictures of the passenger side, but I can post some then. I decided to patch all those little holes, too. Its all done and ready for the por-15!

 

Z86qZ.jpg

 

The light grey metal is this floor pan: http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=72&osCsid=1c358ef5od8o8d73qpg4avhuv5

 

It fit really well and was only $44.99. Obviously I had to trim the bottom half because I didn't need the whole thing.

 

The dark grey is a cut from my donor XJ. That worked out really well because I needed the bracket that's behind there for my 4WD conversion anyway, haha.

 

The brownish section is sheet metal bent to mimic the top rail section on the passenger side. Hopefully it provides more support than just slapping the pan on top of the bottom half of the rail.

 

Comanche is almost done! It's running and the lift is all done, as soon as I get the rear shaft back from the shop (Had them take nine inches off of the 2WD shaft to accomandate new 4.0 HO, AW4, NP231, SOA, 2" blocks and new spring perches which give about an inch) I can drive it!

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I think I am done grinding and cutting, here is what I have now.

 

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So, my plan is to order and weld in a floor pan on the driver side, weld in a piece of sheet metal for that spot on the passenger side, then por15 the whole thing.

 

My question is, are those holes in the last three pictures too big for por15? Should I cut them out and weld in a little piece of metal? Or will por15 take care of all that?

i know this pain and killing them steel termites is not fun to kill ......i used por-15 to seal off the steel out/in sides ....also with cold zine galvanizing coating
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