Lee21490 Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Well i was planning on doing my lift tomorrow, Got all the parts in the mail today. But they shorted me one of the upper brackets, For the Control arm drop Kit :( Well after calling the company, Then having them tell me a week later they can do nothing. and that i have to call Rubicon Express.. I finally get a hold of someone at R E, And he promices to send out the passanger side boomarang bracket. Two days later he calls me says they're out of stock & He has a floor model he can send me, Okay w/e. Its just a peice of metal. So he sends it out Two day mail 'cuz i only have a shop to use this weekend. Well it just @#$%ing got here, and he sent me out another driver side bracket.. So now i have two of those, and no passanger side.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reedtech Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I will be building a lift off this guide most likely, good stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Finally got mine lifted last weekend. Ended up taking two whole days. Everything went pretty smoothly, Drives great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Pics or it didnt happen! :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Pics or it didnt happen! Before: After: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Nice, do you have any pucks in the front or is it all spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Nice, do you have any pucks in the front or is it all spring? Just springs. I Followed his build list, And added a couple things. Like Upper & lower control arms from a Grand Cherokee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 I IN NO WAY SHAPE OR FORM ENDORSE THIS COMPANY BUT... MJ specific CAD brackets http://www.rocky-road.com/cherokee-control-arm-drop.html space down. $205 as of this date Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01yellowxj Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Great thread and links! I have a XJ and bought a MJ (2.5L 5 speed 4.10 axles) a few months ago. I'm thinking about using my XJ C8.25 rear axle (4.10) and using it in the rear of the MJ so I will have a SPOA lift already since my XJ is getting a 8.8 rear axle. I can also use my new shocks off my XJ (Good for 4.5-6.5" lift) since I plan to upgrade them. I will have to see if the C8.25 axle uses the same E-brake set up and if so order the longer cable. Using the C8.25 axle do you see any other item that I may be over looking? I'm not sure what the importance is but on my D35 rear axle there is a ball looking thing bolted to my diff and another bracket near it but not connected. Then lift the front with coil springs, track bar, and longer UCA/LCA's and that should get me close to being done. Until I can get LCA brackets, a solid axle and delete the vac on the front D30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01yellowxj Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 By any chance do you much lift is needed to have to have for the iro double shear track bar? I didn't go with the 5.5" coils but 4.5" does that make any difference and it doesn't say anything on their website.... Edit- never mind saw the measurements in the instructions... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Just some options: Barnes4wd offers anti-wrap spring perches for $26 & Shock tabs for $14 ( $5 if you want to weld the yourself) for a $15 savings on quality parts. They also offer a Pirate discount. http://www.barnes4wd.com/Anti-Wrap-Leaf-Spring-Perch-Pair-30-Axle-Tube-2-34-Wide-Leaf-Spring_p_89.html As the MJ-specific CAD brackets are $205 or more an option would be IRO's upper/lower fixed control arm set for $249. This also eliminates the weak-ish stock arms and the need to source/modify WJ arms if you are going to use this lift off-road. Much less work (especially for those of us in the rust belt) and eliminates the debate over the CAD clearance issues. As many of us who have used curved lower controls arms will attest your ride with them is fine with good springs and shocks. Also remember that the original CAD kit recommended ( $158) was cited for on-road use only per the creator of the lift ( post #69) and additional bracing in the form of kit RE9905 for $85 is needed for the lift to be off-road worthy. That makes the CAD option from the original parts list here $233 to use it off-road. That is only $16 less than the IRO control arms before the aforementioned control arm issues. IMHO the IRO kit is a no-brainer unless you want a street truck. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-SHDCA&Category_Code=XSP It looks like to do this lift and make it off-road worthy while adding shocks to the list would add at least $250 (basic shocks $140 + brace kit $85+ whatever for JY control arms) to the $600 price. Realistically this lift would be hard to do while making it off-road worthy for less than about $850. Using the Bilstein shocks cited instead of the basic shocks in the $250 increase number would make this kit over $1,000. To be fair the creator was up-front about the shocks and the price variance depending on your needs but most off-the-shelf kits, the most popular lift option, include them even on the SOA kits such as this $550 Rusty's SOA kit w/shocks. http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-mj-comanche-4-5-spring-over-kit.html . This is a great effort but, as with any lift or mod, you will need to know what you want out of your lift before choosing what is right for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Someone put this as a sticky some time in the past which has been giving it much more attention than I expected. :P I compiled an easy list for do it yourself people and mainly wanted to share. It really needs some updates now as some of the parts are becoming harder to find or prices have gone up. In the end I am very happy with how this setup rides on the street. The rear is just a little too stiff, but evens out after putting some load back there. That is what a truck is for. :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 It is a great write-up and I am not alone in appreciating the work that went into it. You make another good point in that many of us who wheel their MJ's hard may rarely use it as a truck so there can't be a "one size fits all" solution. I have used your research to compile a list of parts I will source for my SOA. Thanks for blazing the trail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88elimnator Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Good write up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave92cherokee Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 It's been a while since this was posted up and a few people have done the lift. My question is with doint the lift has anyone had any problems from their stock steering maxing out the angles on the TRE's or have you upgraded your steering and if so what did you upgrade to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I've had no issues what so ever with steering. I replaced all components with new TRE, and a pitman arm drop is NOT required, or recommended in my opinion. A common upgrade is I believe WJ steering components. Doing SOA with spring mounts welded onto the axle, I'd imagine the rear shocks would remain stock length, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 I've had no issues what so ever with steering. I replaced all components with new TRE, and a pitman arm drop is NOT required, or recommended in my opinion. A common upgrade is I believe WJ steering components. Doing SOA with spring mounts welded onto the axle, I'd imagine the rear shocks would remain stock length, right? Assuming the spring perch mounts are used, swapping the sides they are on, it changes the length about 0.5" to 1". Not enough to warrant an immediate replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave92cherokee Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Thanks for the replies, was hoping it wouldn't affect the steering as when I was in the process of building up the cheromance I replaced all tre's, as well as sway bar bushings to tighten up the steering and body roll in the front. Already got the 2" shackles in the back and should have the RE drop brackets, and RE track bar with mount coming in this week so hoping to get out there and get the front finished off. Then I think instead of going SOA I'm just going to order a set of sua lift leaf springs to put in the back since this will be a pavement pounder/ gravel road rig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I've had no issues what so ever with steering. I replaced all components with new TRE, and a pitman arm drop is NOT required, or recommended in my opinion. A common upgrade is I believe WJ steering components. Doing SOA with spring mounts welded onto the axle, I'd imagine the rear shocks would remain stock length, right? Assuming the spring perch mounts are used, swapping the sides they are on, it changes the length about 0.5" to 1". Not enough to warrant an immediate replacement. I actually mistyped, I meant to ask if the shock length would remain the same with the SHOCK mounts welded onto the axle. But you did answer my question, I'm just wondering how much articulation I can get using stock length shocks in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 No your shock length will change depending on your lift amount and mount location. The best way is to flex your suspension and measure the max extended and collapsed length between the mounts. Estimates run from around 26.5/15.5 to 29/17. I lean to the longer to increase droop and to keep from overly extending the shocks. Then use bump stops to keep your shocks from bottoming and to keep your tires from hitting the body. No lift is complete without them but many lifts ignore them. You can possibly get by without them if your biggest obstacle is a pothole. Flipping and swapping the factory mounts to keep the short shocks may work for a pavementpounder but will really limit flex if you have higher expectations. It all depends on your goal for your Jeep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 No your shock length will change depending on your lift amount and mount location. The best way is to flex your suspension and measure the max extended and collapsed length between the mounts. Estimates run from around 26.5/15.5 to 29/17. I lean to the longer to increase droop and to keep from overly extending the shocks. Then use bump stops to keep your shocks from bottoming and to keep your tires from hitting the body. No lift is complete without them but many lifts ignore them. You can possibly get by without them if your biggest obstacle is a pothole. Flipping and swapping the factory mounts to keep the short shocks may work for a pavementpounder but will really limit flex if you have higher expectations. It all depends on your goal for your Jeep Understood. When I did the SOA, I didn't reuse the stock shock mounts, I welded on perches to my axle, roughly the same location to where the stock shocks mounted. That's why I'm thinking stock length shocks would be ideal for me, because I get about 5 inches of lift with my SOA, and I tried shocks to match, but they were way too long. I know articulation may be limited, but I can't think of a better alternative than what you mention, getting bump stops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave92cherokee Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 I really doubt stock length shocks would fit as when i just got through putting in 2" shackles there was only about 1-2" left in the length of my stock rear shocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 This is why I would think stock length: Where I welded my shock mounts onto my axle is roughly the same location the shocks mounted when my old axle was SUA and I used the stock shock mount plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 The factory mounts on the spring plates when SUA actually place the lower loop of the shocks a few inches below the axle tube IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts