Alexia Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Many of the Rubicon Express parts listed have either go way up in price or are no longer available in their original form. As a result the price point of this lift kit is no longer valid. I spent most of the weekend researching all the parts to go into this lift. Many I have done on my own MJ while building it. The intention of this lift is to be entirely complete, have good ride quality, flex well, and require no hacks to install. Most of the parts are bought from RockAuto.com. Suggestions and improvements are welcome! http://www.nonamestudios.com/experimentalinsanity.com/vehicle/resources/mj-lift.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Neat worksheet/project you did there. I would be a bit concerned about using the stock control arms though. Yes they do allow for decent flex, but the flex is obtained by twisting the metal of the arm. Add a bunch more twist caused by the longer springs (and shocks you buy) and I see serious metal fatigue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Very nice, This will no doubt be a favorite DIY thread for many new and old comanche owners to come. This will definately be saved onto my desktop :yes: . BTW how long did it take you to compose this lift recipie? research included, not just typing it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted October 10, 2012 Author Share Posted October 10, 2012 Neat worksheet/project you did there. I would be a bit concerned about using the stock control arms though. Yes they do allow for decent flex, but the flex is obtained by twisting the metal of the arm. Add a bunch more twist caused by the longer springs (and shocks you buy) and I see serious metal fatigue. The stress on the stock control arms will be reduced by the fact they are starting at the proper angle. This lift cost is a good starter and then the person can upgrade the control arms later. Very nice, This will no doubt be a favorite DIY thread for many new and old comanche owners to come. This will definately be saved onto my desktop :yes: . BTW how long did it take you to compose this lift recipie? research included, not just typing it up. It was about eight hours of searching CC, NAXJA, and doing cross reference on RockAuto. A lot of time was just spent which sites sold the best product at the best price. Lots of companies make and sell spring perches, but Ruff Stuff has the best at a great price. I need to go back and put in links of where to buy each part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Good solid lift summary Alexis, and fine work as per your usual. :cheers: One minor comment though; M14 (or 9/16" dia depending on the year) fine thread were the factory size used for the non-standard HD U-bolts and long nuts on the MJs w. D44s and the towing package option. This size also does not require drilling out the slotted holes in the spring plates. 5/8" dia. U-bolts are kind of an overkill IMO and are really not needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 5/8" U-bolts are kind of an overkill IMO and are really not needed. :agree: :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Forgive me for editing your post above Cody (in RED) but I assume this is what you meant. :cheers: If I'm wrong, let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 having a mod edit your quotes takes all the fun out of being a smartass :rotf: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 :yes: Yes, but you are a knowledgeable smartass. Big difference. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted October 10, 2012 Author Share Posted October 10, 2012 Good solid lift summary Alexis, and fine work as per your usual. :cheers: One minor comment though; M14 (or 9/16" dia depending on the year) fine thread were the factory size used for the non-standard HD U-bolts and long nuts on the MJs w. D44s and the towing package option. This size also does not require drilling out the slotted holes in the spring plates. 5/8" dia. U-bolts are kind of an overkill IMO and are really not needed. Ruff Stuff's D44 Simple Swap Kit comes with 5/8" bolts which is why I mentioned it in the document. My updated version I am working on has part numbers for that kit. The nice part about going to 5/8" is that since they can be torqued to over 200 foot pounds it is unlikely they will ever stretch making them much more friendly for retorquing in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinMJ Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Great write up. I will definitely be using this as a reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 :yes: Yes, but you are a knowledgeable smartass. Big difference. :thumbsup: yep, overkill is underrated :fs2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinMJ Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Where did u find RE coil springs that cheap for both? The cheapest i have found was 175 for a pair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted October 13, 2012 Author Share Posted October 13, 2012 Where did u find RE coil springs that cheap for both? The cheapest i have found was 175 for a pair. http://mudflaps.com/i-7093397-rubicon-express-re1345-coil-springs-jeep-xj-5-5-jeep-zj-4-pair.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinMJ Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Thanks Alex. Sweet deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Nice write up! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 Just curious, has this lift kit setup been finalized? All the details been ironed out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted October 27, 2012 Author Share Posted October 27, 2012 Just curious, has this lift kit setup been finalized? All the details been ironed out? Pretty much finalized. I do not have the engine and transmission in the truck yet so the front end is sitting ridiculously high. The price of this lift might go up just a little if front spring spacers or 6.5" springs are required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted October 27, 2012 Author Share Posted October 27, 2012 Actually, I just added links in to buy the pieces where I found them and some extra information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 6.5? I thought this was a lift for 5.5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 6.5? I thought this was a lift for 5.5? Yes, it is, but depending on which rear leaf springs are in your MJ you may end up with effectively 6.5" of lift in the rear. Such as the Metric/Big Ton leaf springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 Ooohh, right. So I have an eliminator, not sure if it has the offroad package, but if i were to do this i think i would net 5.5, 5.7 something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I would add WJ lcas to that mix. :thumbsup: Stock MJ arms were never meant to control gigantic tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Isnt there some grinding required for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 yes, you'll need to nip off the ends of the steel sleeve with a hack saw or grinder so that they are flush with the rubber. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts