What lift kits are y'all running?

[Dedaw]

Shopping around for lift kits at the moment. Looking for a relatively cheap lift (under $1,000 most definitely) that will give me 2"-4" of lift. Ideally want to fit 33s with or without cutting. And is OME really worth the extra penny? I've heard absolutely amazing stuff about it, but $1500 is a nice chunk to toss on a lift.

[shelbyluvv]

What are the ultimate plans for the truck? Mudder, crawler, DD, or a all around truck for all situations? This will drive the build.

 

You will see most run a bastard lift. A bunch of stuff from different vendors

 

I am running RC drop brackets, Rockkrawler 4.5" coils, 2" poly spacers, SOA in the rear.

[Dedaw]

Jack-of-all-trades, most definitely. I will be using as a daily (for now), but want it to be lifted enough to comfortably go wheeling in as well.

[Pete M]

planning on changing gears in the axles?

[mountainman]

where did you get 1500? i don't see anything on OME thats 1500 bucks. They are the cheapest and supposedly the best.

Like... 600 bucks cheap. Of course like most vendors these days ive heard mixed signals about.. pretty much all of of them.

But great reviews on OME front springs.

i for sure will be doing mostly OME parts and then SOA on my truck.

We shall see.

 

definitely please show where 1500 is at. So we can see what your seeing.

[cody4359]

just go straight to long arms. a local guy has clayton long arm upgrade for sale off his xj still i think. or if you catch me on the right day i have all the drivetrain i pulled from mine still. been thinking of using it but will probly just scrap the other mj

[mnkyboy]

My first lift was SOA with OME springs,it sucked. OME AFAIK doesn't make a spring long enough to match soa so you have to use OME934's which are 2" ZJ springs and stack 3" pucks on them.

 

OME is great for small lifts but I would run their stuff with a tall lift.

[Dedaw]

http://www.rocky-road.com/xjtrailblazer.html is where I found the OME for $1500, granted that was with johnny join arms, shocks, and high steer. I don't plan on regearing the axles yet, unless I really need to. Maybe a better question would be, how much lift is too much/too little. I like the idea of LCG (low center of gravity) but not hacking up the truck a lot. I want to be able to run about 33s with enough lift that I can take it through decent trails, but not too much that it makes it a pain to DD/easily rolling. I was think 3"-4" of lift should be enough? :dunno:

[shelbyluvv]

You will need to cut a bunch of metal to run 33's on a 3-4 lift. The front is the problem. The rears will clear a 33 pretty easy. 6.5" is about the best for the front with minor trimming. This also allows you to go SOA in the rear and save a pile of cash on parts.

 

Oh, Stay away from Rockyroad.

[mountainman]

So you're lifting an XJ then?

[Dedaw]

You will need to cut a bunch of metal to run 33's on a 3-4 lift. The front is the problem. The rears will clear a 33 pretty easy. 6.5" is about the best for the front with minor trimming. This also allows you to go SOA in the rear and save a pile of cash on parts.

 

Oh, Stay away from Rockyroad.

Thanks. I was just browsing, and asking what lifts specifically because I know some people have bad luck with some brands. I don't plan on lots of cutting. If anything, cutting right along the edge of the OE fender flares so I can put on larger flares. So go with about 6.5" coils, long arms (or links?), and SOA the rear?

 

Sorry, I'm really new to all of this. All of the research I've done before I bought this truck (my first truck), still doesn't help me until I can actually go through with a lift and see what all's in it. I had a VW before, and was all about lowering it, so LIFTING something is the exact opposite of what I know lol

 

 

 

@mountain, no, an MJ. I was looking at the OME front for an XJ.

[shelbyluvv]

For a all around DD/wheeler this is what I would do,

 

FRONT

Rough Country Drop Brackets

RockKrawler 4.5" coils

2" poly spacers

RockKrawler Track Bar and Bracket

Bilstein 5100 shocks

GMC 1500 brake lines

 

REAR

Ruff Stuff easy axle kit (spring plates, shock tabs, u-bolts, nuts, and spring perches)

Bilstein 5100 shocks

Dakota rear brake line.

 

You could get some RE or RK ADJ control arms but they are not required.

 

With the parts listed above you can have a good riding and performing 6.5" lift for way less than an off the shelf kit.

 

That is the setup I have used on a few trucks and it works good. I do not see the need to run Long Arms on a mild wheeler. It is a waste of money.

[Dedaw]

For a all around DD/wheeler this is what I would do,

 

FRONT

Rough Country Drop Brackets

RockKrawler 4.5" coils

2" poly spacers

RockKrawler Track Bar and Bracket

Bilstein 5100 shocks

GMC 1500 brake lines

 

REAR

Ruff Stuff easy axle kit (spring plates, shock tabs, u-bolts, nuts, and spring perches)

Bilstein 5100 shocks

Dakota rear brake line.

 

You could get some RE or RK ADJ control arms but they are not required.

 

With the parts listed above you can have a good riding and performing 6.5" lift for way less than an off the shelf kit.

 

That is the setup I have used on a few trucks and it works good. I do not see the need to run Long Arms on a mild wheeler. It is a waste of money.

Thank you. :)

Would 6.5" Clayton's in the front be better than RK's and spacers?

And should I get new 1" leafs in the rear and a 1" spacer in the front, or should my old, beaten rear leafs be okay?

 

EDIT: The Clayton 6.5" are cheaper than the 4.5" RK's, without adding in the cost of spacers.

 

Also, to go a little off-topic: how are the BFG T/A KM2s? Any cheaper tires that are decent for a DD/weekender?

[shelbyluvv]

Just a suggestion. I like the RK coils because they ride better. I have tried RE, RC, BOR, BDS, and RK coils through the years. I like the ride and rate of the RK coils the best.

 

Coils tend to get weak and bow the taller they get. Shorter coils retain their ride and spring rate better than a long coil.

 

Do you really need a $250 tire or do you just want them? There are tons of tires that are priced way less than ANY BFG. They are great tires but a Maxxis Big Horn is just as good and lasts twice as long.

 

If you do a SOA with a new 1" pack it will make the @$$ end over 8" of lift for about a year until they settle. Your stock springs are already settled. They more than likely will not sag much more in the next few years.

[Dedaw]

Just a suggestion. I like the RK coils because they ride better. I have tried RE, RC, BOR, BDS, and RK coils through the years. I like the ride and rate of the RK coils the best.

 

Coils tend to get weak and bow the taller they get. Shorter coils retain their ride and spring rate better than a long coil.

 

Do you really need a $250 tire or do you just want them? There are tons of tires that are priced way less than ANY BFG. They are great tires but a Maxxis Big Horn is just as good and lasts twice as long.

 

If you do a SOA with a new 1" pack it will make the @$$ end over 8" of lift for about a year until they settle. Your stock springs are already settled. They more than likely will not sag much more in the next few years.

Good to know. Then maybe worth the little extra for the shorter coils and spacers.

I didn't think the rears would be a problem, but was curious.

I found the BFGs for $198 at tirerack, but am open to anything really. I want good all-around tires for snow and all the other fun stuff. But, again, new to the whole damn thing. :doh:

 

I'm looking at Rock Crawler steelies. Do I want the 15x8 or 15x10 (which is better for most availability)?

[MichiganDuck]

I found the BFGs for $198 at tirerack, but am open to anything really. I want good all-around tires for snow and all the other fun stuff.

I looked at tires for the longest time and went through TireRacks reviews and decided that i was mostly only worried about snow. Not road noise or dry handling..its a damn jeep..haha. But anyway, i settled on General Grabber AT2's in 255/70 or 75.. they had great ratings for snow and their match in the snow was much more money. Basically one of the best for cheapest. If snow is your concern, these will do great. The reviews all say its worthless in mud...and they werent kidding. Took it on some friends field/woods trails and got stuck on a slick mud incline..... had to work hard to get it out (i also on only have 2wd)..might of helped if i had some weight in the bed (maybe? I don't know mudding..i know to clear the tread out by spinning and such..that helped a little). Rides pretty good over my crappy zero-tread, miss-matched blizzaks, grips pretty good in most stuff..

Just an option for ya. Some bigger sizes are actually cheaper than the smaller ones for whatever reason, too.

[mountainman]

Makes more sense why you were seeing such a huge price. The 6 inch OME lift is less than 600 bucks.

Ive read and heard nothing but great stuff about the products... just a bit of negative about the people running the show.

So take that as you may.

 

Funny all the diff opinions you will get. You need to weed through and see what sounds best.

Like when shelby said get the spacers and 4.5 springs. That is good info right there.

 

So when you look you can see why the OME would be a bad @$$ kit if you can't weld.

For MJ you get the SOA kit with the cool perch system for the rear.

That would work well for most people who don't want to set pinion angle and have no welder to do the SOA themselves.

 

This is what I'm talking about.

 

http://www.rocky-road.com/comanche.html

 

can't really go wrong with that, at that price. You get all the stuff you need to do it right. of course its not done 100%... are they ever?

 

The ACOS setup is bad @$$ too, if you want to level your front perfect.

 

 

I'm with you on KM2's thats all i will run. At 206 a tire... thats cheap in my book. But ive bought race car stuff my whole life. So 5-700 for 2 tires is a reality for me.

I'm happy that I'm gonna be in under 900 mtd and balanced for my KM2s.

[mnkyboy]

That's not an ome lift its a RRO lift with ome springs.

 

For $600 you get very little. I started with that kit and now out of the whole thing I'm using the SOA and the track bar,everything else long is gone.

 

Oh and that kit as shipped will not fit 33" tires,with the stock arms cranked up that much 33s touch the back of the wheel wells.

 

The kit also doesn't flex for crap as shipped,it will cost you about $1500 if you want it to flex like the ones on their web site.

[Dedaw]

Lots and lots of info to digest.. Thanks guys! Is it worth it to shell out for long arms from the get-go. I plan to do semi-serious wheeling, but not to the extent of breaking stuff every time I go out (hopefully).

[mountainman]

Yep.... thats why this site rocks. Lots of good info to digest. I'm a newb to lifting comanches too... so i learn by every post i read or make. :)

 

I want mine to be epic so I'm not doing it big till i have revised my notes/outline at least 10 times.

I learn more each week.

 

Thanks to those who have chimed in here with real world experience.

It helps those of us who are headed the direction youve already gone. ;)

[Pete M]

just my 2 cents but for a daily driver (without regearing) I would go with:

 

2" pucks up front

Chevy drop shackles int eh rear

WJ control arms

31" tires

 

You're going to hate those 3.07s

[Dedaw]

If I regear, what should I run for 33s?

[COFFMAN]

just my 2 cents but for a daily driver (without regearing) I would go with:

 

2" pucks up front

Chevy drop shackles int eh rear

WJ control arms

31" tires

 

You're going to hate those 3.07s

Great thread as this is something i,ll be looking at shortly & will be running 33" max

Whats the differance with the WJ control arms ?

How much lift can you gain with the ACOS or are they for fine tune of suspension only ?

[Pete M]

4.10s at least. :thumbsup: but regearing is an expensive proposition (300-500 per axle). Usually a better option is finding junkyard axles with the gears you want. 4.10s are usually found in 2.5L/5speed XJ/MJ fronts. and 4.10s are fairly common in Explorer 8.8 rear axles.

 

also, 33x10.5" tires are much easier to fit than 33x12.5". :thumbsup:

 

 

WJ arms work for lifts up to 2", maybe 3" if your truck has enough adjustment in the control arm mounts. They are the same length as MJ LCAs, but have a bend in them for tire clearance.

 

[Dedaw]

4.10s at least. :thumbsup: but regearing is an expensive proposition (300-500 per axle). Usually a better option is finding junkyard axles with the gears you want. 4.10s are usually found in 2.5L/5speed XJ/MJ fronts. and 4.10s are fairly common in Explorer 8.8 rear axles.

 

also, 33x10.5" tires are much easier to fit than 33x12.5". :thumbsup:

 

 

WJ arms work for lifts up to 2", maybe 3" if your truck has enough adjustment in the control arm mounts. They are the same length as MJ LCAs, but have a bend in them for tire clearance.

 

I think for right now, I'll follow your advice for the 2"-3" lift, and find some cheap used 31s until I figure out what I want to do for sure. Thanks for saving me a huge hassle :)

Tossing around ideas of 35s, new engine,stiffer axles, and flat bed. So would be pointless to blow all that on 33s to redo it all.

 

EDIT: I can't seem to find 3" spacers, and doesn't seem safe to stack them...

What kind of shocks should I run? How much better are Bilsteins than Ranchos?