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Bad Blower...? Bad Resistor?


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For the longest time now, my non-AC control panel hasn't worked in the least. Took apart the radio when I was installing it a few months ago and checked all the connections. Everything is hooked up, and I didn't see anything amiss.

 

The sucker won't even turn on. It still lights up when the lights are on, but I can't get it to do anything. Could this be a bad blower, or the unit itself? Or maybe something else entirely? I'm just about out of ideas. I'd like to be able to drive in the rain with SOME kind of air blowing around inside the cab... instead of having to drive in the pouring rain with the window open. :hmm: :wall:

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The resistors only control the slower speeds. If the resistor pack is bad, the fan will still run at full speed when the control is placed in that position. If you have NOTHING, the fan is probably bad. It's easy to test -- three screws from the engine side of the firewall remove it, and you can jumper the two terminals on the connector directly to the battery to see if it runs.

 

My '88 XJ is on its third fan, and that one's on the way out.

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The resistors only control the slower speeds. If the resistor pack is bad, the fan will still run at full speed when the control is placed in that position. If you have NOTHING, the fan is probably bad. It's easy to test -- three screws from the engine side of the firewall remove it, and you can jumper the two terminals on the connector directly to the battery to see if it runs.

 

My '88 XJ is on its third fan, and that one's on the way out.

I say the resistor is only part of the problem because as I found out, and like you said, my fan only worked on high speeds for its final leg before it totally gave out. More than likely, I will end up replacing both the fan and the resistor, as I'm 95% sure they're the 25 year old originals. :fs2:

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I noticed whn I did my AC conversion, that the fan was a little sticky, so I oiled it before reinstalling. But usually, high load resistance in a motor will cause the resistor to go bad, and if left long enough then the motor eventually burns out. Like was said, check your powers at the resistor and with switch on high, check power at the fan connector. This should tell you whats wrong.... probably needs both.

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  • 2 weeks later...

For anyone wondering, and for people who find this thread and need assistance; I replaced the resistor today with no improvements whatsoever.

 

Next on the list is to replace the blower motor and check the vacuum lines again. If that doesn't yield anything, it's off to the junkyard for another Non-AC Control panel. Will post results as progress is made. :smart:

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You might want to check the ignition switch (down low on the steering column). When my blower started getting squirrley I found that the plug for that portion of the harness (the blue one) was partially melted to the ignition switch.

 

In reading about it, Cryco had discovered the origional factory wiring to the blower was sufficient when the blower was new, but as the blower got older it was drawing more and more current, and melted the wiring.

 

Replaced the ignition switch, spliced in a new plug, and replaced the blower motor and all was good as new.

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I have a similar problem every now and then. My blower does not run when I turn it on, A quick check of thre blower fuse revealed it was sligthly loose and will make intermitent contact. Most of the time as soon as I touch the blower fuse, the blower quickly came back to life. My solution was to slightly bend the fuse contacts in the fuse box and sligthly bend the legs of the fuse - this way the fuse will make good contact and the blower will work.

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