Vibrating after pulling drive shaft

[HOrnbrod]

This is nuts. I installed a metal gas tank skid today. To install the nutserts and mount the thing I had to unbolt the drive shaft for and swing it toward the right side for clearance. Didn't even pull it out of the tranny; just laid it gently on the garage floor. Installed the skid, bolted the shaft back up on the diff yoke and went to the store. Getting a pretty good vibration now between 35MPH-45MPH that definitely was NOT there before. I'm not sure if the drive shaft is orientated at the pinion exactly as before; didn't mark it, it may be 180* out. I've never worried about that before, but it's the only thing I can think of. The u-joint cups are fully seated in the pinion yoke and everything looks okay. Any ideas? I hate vibes............

[Jeep Driver]

That's why they say to mark it, but I never had myself and never had a problem.

 

 

Guess it's time for new joints.

[jimoshel]

Remove the shaft, rotate it 180 and hook it back up. See what haps. Personally I suspect one off the cups is not seated properly. Not doubting your eye sight but maybe it's dark under there.

[HOrnbrod]

Remove the shaft, rotate it 180 and hook it back up. See what haps.

 

Will do mañana Jim. There's always a snag ............. :fs2:

[1987Comanche]

I'd vote for worn U-joints. I had a random banging that I traced to a nearly new shock that functioned fine off the truck. Removal and reinstallation in the exact same orientation caused the issue. Sometimes stuff is worn in such that any disturbance upsets the delicate balance.

[knever3]

I feel your pain Don, After I had two driveshafts made I still have a vib at 55mph that drives me nuts!! Let us know what you find out, I would say flip it 180 too, but what do I know? I haven't fixed mine yet! :rotf:

[Jeep Driver]

I feel your pain Don, After I had two driveshafts made I still have a vib at 55mph that drives me nuts!! Let us know what you find out, I would say flip it 180 too, but what do I know? I haven't fixed mine yet! :rotf:

 

 

 

Who made it?

[jimoshel]

There's always the old 'hose clamp trick. Take a hose clamp big enough to wrap around the drive shaft. About a foot from the rear seems to work best.Test drive. Rotate the clamp about 1/2 inch. Test drive. Time consuming and a labourous PITA but it does work. I once had to use two clamps which ended up 45* apart but it solved a vibe problem the drive shaft shop couldn't find or fix.

[HOrnbrod]

Rotated the shaft 180*, greased up the u-joints, and it's back to normal, no vibes. From now on, the drive shaft will be permanently marked and going back on the same way it came out. Never thought this was that important, but it is. :cheers:

[jimoshel]

Did you measure the amount of grease you put in each cup to insure equal amounts?

[HOrnbrod]

Did you measure the amount of grease you put in each cup to insure equal amounts?

 

Err, no. Just let the grease gun do it's equi-distribution thing.

[tugalo]

that hose clamp trick is a NEAT idea!!!!

[Alexia]

Rotated the shaft 180*, greased up the u-joints, and it's back to normal, no vibes. From now on, the drive shaft will be permanently marked and going back on the same way it came out. Never thought this was that important, but it is. :cheers:

 

Not necessarily important on new parts. On old shafts the U-Joints will wear in orientation to the parts it is hooked up to. I had the same problem on my Wrangler with the old shaft, but not with the new one.

[HOrnbrod]

Not necessarily important on new parts. On old shafts the U-Joints will wear in orientation to the parts it is hooked up to. I had the same problem on my Wrangler with the old shaft, but not with the new one.

 

I doubt there were more than 5K miles on the old u-joints. But they were not Dana Spicer. I've ordered two new Spicer Series 5-153X 1310 joints and will be installing next week.

[carnuck]

hand grease each cap. Bet you're going to find wear marks on the shaft of the old ones.