yuhaze Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 I have located the whole shebang - 1999 dakota 22 gallon fuel tank, pump, and harness; they also have the filler neck. Has anyone swapped out tanks with the original configuration? Mine is a 1988 Comanche, and I see references to this swap working on conversions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 I hate to bump an old thread, but I was a little confused. It appears that the '97-04 pump/sender is the correct assembly, but what year is the best bet for the tank. I've seen several different years used from '92-'99. Jeepman, what do you mean you drilled the sender? Are those two pictures hosted elsewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryno56 Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 I have the whole setup from a '98 in mine. Everything worked great except for the filler neck, it's a little low on the tank and I had to clearance (and then reinforce) the frame rail to get the filler hose on. Other than that, I didnt have to make any other modifications. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 (edited) This TIME issue is the biggest issue stopping for doing it and cutting up my perfectly good Xj. *updated it ;) I bought an MJ Edited April 29, 2013 by Zack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 My old 89 is still running fine with the TJ tank and sender in it. Just food for thought. See my Onyx build for the details on making it bolt in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 My old 89 is still running fine with the TJ tank and sender in it. Just food for thought. See my Onyx build for the details on making it bolt in. The TJ tank is only 19 gallons; I'd like to have the extra capacity of the Dakota tank, not to mention having to fab a whole new mounting system for it. Right now I can't get too low on the MJ tank without the slosh pan because the truck will start to buck as the fuel moves around. I'm filling up at about 15-16 gallons and at 14 mpg or so, that's less than a 225 mile range. A 22 gallon tank that I can use more of will get me much closer to 300. I think I would be more comfortable modifying an earlier '90s tank to add the vent line, than I would be modifying the frame rail to clear the late '90s tank. I'll have to see what I can find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wurst Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 This is definitely a newb question, but why does everyone want to replace the tank. I just pulling mine out this morning and it is corroded as hell. Is this that common? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backdraft Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 This is definitely a newb question, but why does everyone want to replace the tank. I just pulling mine out this morning and it is corroded as hell. Is this that common? This is more for those who have done a second gen swap on their trucks. It is for solving the problem with the original sender in order to get the fuel gauge to read properly as well as having higher pressure from the fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 This is more for those who have done a second gen swap on their trucks. It is for solving the problem with the original sender in order to get the fuel gauge to read properly as well as having higher pressure from the fuel pump. YES! Dakota tank fits shortbed, it is plastic - not steel. Plus 4 extra gallons over short bed 18 gal. tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 The TJ tank is only 19 gallons; I'd like to have the extra capacity of the Dakota tank, not to mention having to fab a whole new mounting system for it. Right now I can't get too low on the MJ tank without the slosh pan because the truck will start to buck as the fuel moves around. I'm filling up at about 15-16 gallons and at 14 mpg or so, that's less than a 225 mile range. A 22 gallon tank that I can use more of will get me much closer to 300.I think I would be more comfortable modifying an earlier '90s tank to add the vent line, than I would be modifying the frame rail to clear the late '90s tank. I'll have to see what I can find. I agree with everything you just said there. Thats why I don't really want to go the Tj tank.So does anyone of pictures of this or anything? because I am a visual learner. hahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 I am having some trouble fitting a 1998 22 gallon Dakota tank under the SWB MJ. The angled brace between the frame rail and the corner of the cab pushes the tank towards the drive shaft as it is tightened into place. Leaving it hanging three inches lower and wobbly is not ideal either. Any ideas why I am running into this issue when it has not come up before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 I have been trying to figure out the filler modification that was done here. Best I can see is the origional poster took the fuel filler neck (out of the bedside) and reversed it, inserting the nozzle end into the grommet on the tank, then bolting it through the tank itself. It appears he then cut the majority of the metal filler neck off and attached rubber hoses (to clear the frame rail on the MJ). The origional part numbers for the extension of the filler neck show no longer available (the hard pipe that went through the frame rail on the Dakota). Close up Pic: I still don't understand why he added the vent connections (because the new sender has vent connections on it...). I am going to modify the curved rib which pushes the tank towards the DS when mounted. I'll post up pics when done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 My feelings on the vent connection is so you can pump gas at a faster rate with it. The vent on the sender isn't large enough diameter to do that is it? Also, is it a vent or a return? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 My feelings on the vent connection is so you can pump gas at a faster rate with it. The vent on the sender isn't large enough diameter to do that is it? Also, is it a vent or a return?There is not a vent on the fuel pump or sender assembly. The 5/8" tube next to the filler next is for venting. It creates a vacuum effect allowing the gas to pump faster. This is the modified tank I was attempting to install. The tube is a 1998 Dodge Dakota filler neck that I bored out the cap retainer and crimped the vent pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamond Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 1995 22 gal in front, 1998 begind it. 98 looks like it might require a bit of work for the filler neck to clear the unibody. the 95 is a bit taller but the filler neck should be fine, plus the corner by the rear axle is somewhat clearanced. Thanks for this documentation. I am just now coming to this project and was glad you have found a good fix with the tank/pump swap. Do you have any add'l comments, recommendations, etc. on this now that it is 6 months later? Hope you are still running strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Nice, I think the one I got is from a 95"... I'm eager to see someone document the steps of putting one in if they beat me to it!!! Please take pictures of your mods! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 If everything goes as planned (yeah right!) my son and I should be solvig this problem some time next week. We will be installing a 95 dakota tank with a 98 dakota sender (to nake the fuel gauge read correctly). We will document with pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 If everything goes as planned (yeah right!) my son and I should be solvig this problem some time next week. We will be installing a 95 dakota tank with a 98 dakota sender (to nake the fuel gauge read correctly). We will document with pictures. can't wait, good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Do you know that the 95' sender will not work with the 98' computer/wiring? If so, I may have that issue too. Looking forward to your awsome pictures and write up! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 don't know about the 95 sender. We are planning to use the 98 sender, but I also have a 92 sender as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldseddie Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 I am watching this as well as intend to do this on my 89. I just wanted to mention that you can alter the tank with a heat gun to clear obstructions. Just 'sneak up' on it till it becomes pliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 I am watching this as well as intend to do this on my 89. I just wanted to mention that you can alter the tank with a heat gun to clear obstructions. Just 'sneak up' on it till it becomes pliable. Actually, we did exactly what you mention. After we figured out the vacuum from the filler neck issue (drilled into the top of the 98 Dakota sender and inserted the 92 Dakota sender's vacuum fitting) and the gas tank emission control valve issue (cut the gas vent out of the 99 XJ tank and drilled/inserted it into the 92 Dakota tank). we strapped the whole assembly up to the MJ. It sat too close to the drive shaft for my tastes (due to a frame to cab brace), so we carefully heated the tank with a heat gun and pressed the corner of the tank in to clear the brace. With that modification we now have about 6-8 inches clearance from the drive shaft even with the heat/stone shield in place. The heated spot will be coated with regular JB Weld and will then be covered with a piece of sheet aluminum (in case it rubs against the frame brace). I suspect the tank mod may cost us about 1/2 gallon less gasoline on fill-up. The filler neck is a hybrid between the 92 Dakota tank filler and the MJ, with some changes. First, the 92 Dakota tank has an opening with a rubber grommet side where the tube inserts approximately 3/4 of the way (in its original application). This tube (which is no longer available anywhere except in PaP yards or the like), has a bend in it so it can be maneuvered to place the 2" rubber hose in the correct position for the MJ filler neck. The vacuum "breaker" (designed to reduce back pressure so you can fill the tank quicker) had a straight pipe that needs to be replaced by one with a slight curve (to clear the MJ frame) and then a 3/4" rubber hose connects it to the appropriate place on the MJ filler neck. Because the original was aluminum I plan on using some 3/4" aluminum electrical conduit and bending it with a pipe bender until it is at the correct angle The only thing left is the tie-in of the 99 XJ fuel sender wiring to the 98 Dakota plug (in the sender) which should be fairly easy (4 wires and you already know one is a ground!). We should be installing the engine this weekend, so the real test is coming soon. See the thread here, the tank info is on pages 2 and 3: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38725-89-resto-to-99-conversion/ So, we used: 1) Vent valve from a 99 XJ tank 2) 92 Dakota 22 gallon gas tank 3) Part of the 92 Dakota filler neck 4) Vacuum breaker from a 92 Dakota sending unit 5) 98 Dakota sending unit 6) MJ fuller neck 7) New rubber hoses 8) Eight inches of 3/4" aluminum conduit 9) Fuel resistant flange sealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Pictures folks Pictures! Thanks for all the info... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 I have a 95' dakota 22gal tank & plan to order a 98' Dakota sender/pump unit for my 88-98 swap. I'm thinking it would be easiest to drill the new sender unit and add a fuel filer vent. Has anyone done this and are there pictures to show how/where. Might be nice before drilling a new sender unit. If I go this way, and suggestions on fittings? Gas safe (proof) RTV? Or am I better to drill the tank? Just not sure what I'd use for fittings on the tank. Akula69- I'd be interested in seeing pictures of the mods you made to the tank and sender!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 Permatex MotoSeal 1 grey RTV for sealing the gas tank. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-29132-MotoSeal-Ultimate-Gasket/dp/B000HBGHKE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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