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Making lower control arms.


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ummm if it was me i would NOT run those..... u could have done a couple things u could have just welded a peice of plate to the bottom of ur stock arms and have pretty well the same thing thats in ur pics less the bend

 

but if it was me i would have used 2 1/2 " round tubing with atleast 1/4" wall for strength cause there is alot of pressure on ur lower arms..... and they would look allmost identical to BDS arms or rough country fixed arms... with a little bend in them bushing are only like $20 for 4 and I'm sure a couple feet of tubing should be easy to accuire

 

 

i think just from the pics u have to much bend on the lower part of the arm.....

 

if anyone in my area ever got caught runnin somthin like that on the road it would be an automatic tow and impound on ur rig ...

 

this is just my opinion and not ment to be an @$$ if i sounded like one lol

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I expected to get a reply similar to that. I really don't mean to sound stubborn but I still plan on at least trying them. I know the proper way to make but without a tubing bender I started running out of options. After reading stories about people actually grinding wj lower control arms to clear their axle brackets I figured mine couldn't be any weaker than those. I made the out of .25" plate expecting to make them stronger than stock. Even though they do angle about 35 degrees to clear the brackets on my axle I still figure the weak point to be the axle brackets.

 

I do agree with you about the proper way to make them but every design has weak points in them. I would figure bending tubing would cause a weak point also. And there isn't much surface area to weld the tubing to the bushing housing. Or as in adjustable control arms the threaded area would seem to be the weak point. Hope I don't seem like I'm shooting down your advice, I just like talking about the subject. Thanks for the advice.

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now with my experaice with 4 diffrent jeep in the past year i ran a zj on rc ajustable arms with no bend in them just plain straight tube with threaded johny joint and i never broke one and my trail riding isnt mud or mild stuff its rocks bigger then my tires etc so she got beat on... and not once did i even losen the nut on it ..... then my xj and my other v8 zj were on home brew tube arms built exact same as bds fixed slight bend but was made out of allmost 1/4 wall and did the same wheelin big rocks lots of drops and never even kinked one ....

 

but keep in mind u get pretty well the same drop on shorts arms even if they r stright or even a slight bend in them their isnt much diffreance at all IMO....

 

 

but the slight bend in a tube arm isnt gunna make it weak and the rc ajustable arms there is enough thread in the stock that ur not gunna break it

 

but no harm in trying them ... but i would be worried about breaking one and then havin all the strain of ur front axel on the upper arms... and if a upper arm lets go while ur drivin ur whole housing will roll right under ur jeep and u will have no steering etc and cause an accident.... i rolled a front end on my old xj when i ripped a control arm bracket off but luckely it was on a trail coming off a rock so it just stoped in its tracks

 

 

but like i said I'm not tryin to beat ur build up by anymeans... just offerin advice ...this is how we all learn diffrent things. :) ...

 

keep us updated on how they work... would like to see pics when complet done and on ur mj sittin level and maybe twisted up on a rock or somthin

 

cheers!

 

Nick

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After reading stories about people actually grinding wj lower control arms to clear their axle brackets I figured mine couldn't be any weaker than those.

 

You asked for opinions, here's mine. Do you have a clue about how much material you have to grind off the WJ arms to clear the brackets? About 1/4" on the rear lip. Nothing is weakened, and it's not a "story". The WJ control arms, even with that bit of grinding, are far stronger than the originals due to the enclosed tubes and much beefier bushings. No integrity is compromised by the grinding. While I do admire your initiative spending all this time and effort in am attempt to fab new and improved LCAs and then retaining the rotten bushings I fail to see any logic in this LCA mod, both for safety and economical reasons. It's cheaper and more importantly safer to use the WJ LCAs. Advise you to keep your rig off-road only if you plan on using your mod.

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I do have a new set of bushings I just didn't want to burn the new ones when I was welding. I used an old set to keep everything lined up. I actually rarely drive my mj nowadays due to my new job supplying me a service vehicle. My plan is to buy or build a set of control arm drop brackets pretty soon so these will be kinda just a trial project. I will stick to off road for now. Thanks for the concern that's exactly why I posted, thanks.

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material costs money. time costs money. add it all up at a reasonable hourly rate, with reasonable supplies cost (i.e. welding gas, wire, cutting wheels, torch gas/tips, plasma cutter tips, welding tips, as well as electric), and I bet you spent more than a set of control arms cost.

 

 

fabrication isn't cheap.

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yeah fixed aftermarket LCA's usally only go for 40 or 50 bucks wich is very cheap for a well built and tested mod.....

 

but u mentioned LCA drops... i would advise not using them if u trail ride on anything rocky as they hang very low and get ripped off very easy and when u rip on off it usally takes ur whole mount right from frame... seen it happen a couple times

 

but like everyone eles says add up what u spent in material and time and i bet ur past what aftermarket ones cost....

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I agree that the time was probably not as well spent as $100 on used arms, but seriously guys quit giving the guy a hard time. Your safety concerns are over the top. You are comparing one piece stamped factory arms to his monster garage quarter plate tank arms. There are no safety issues there.

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the design would be questionable if it was made from thinner steel, but I guess it should do fine the way it is. I would have tucked in a square plate inside the bend to help fight collapsing of the arm, but again, 1/4" should do ok. a straight arm would have been even stronger. :thumbsup:

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The problem you will have is in regards to the stock rubber bushings. They are not designed to twist. In stock form, when the axle articulates the factory U arm does the twisting.

 

Keep a close eye on the axle and frame mounts. There is a good chance you could rip them off.

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