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Blue88Comanche Pioneer 4X4


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Instilling the Novak Cable shifter on an AX-15/NP242 combo
 
I was in need of a new transfer case linkage setup after I replaced my BA-10/5 & NP231 with an AX-15 & NP242. I purchased the Novak Cable Shifter Kit for$195.85 shipped from Novak-Adapt.com.  If you don't want to spend nearly $200 on a cable shifter, then take a look at THIS DIY Linkage, I rediscovered it after I ordered my Novak kit.  Before I installed my kit I read over Flint54's install thread.  I did not do all the modifications he did, such as to the shift gate.  I don't know if Novak changed the kit between the time Flint54's installed his kit and I bought mine.  The install took about 2 hours.  A second person may be needed during the install.  I did not need to remove the cross member or lower the transmission to install this kit, however it would have made things simpler.  This kit is not exactly "bolt on" if you have a NP242 like me, some modification may be required.  If you had Rhino liner sprayed in the cab you may soon regret it as I did.
 
Keep in mind this is for General Instruction.  This is how I did the install.  This install was on a 1988 Jeep Comanche, 4.0 I6, AX-15, NP242.  Also note my MJ does not have all the factory sized bolts as some have been replaced over the years, I may give a bolt size that is different from factory.
 
Tools Required:

  • Saftey Glasses
  • Gloves
  • Box Cutter (If you have Bed liner in the cab)
  • Wrenches (8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 1/4, 1/2, 9/16, 15/16, these are what I used)
  • Allen wrenchs
  • Drill
  • Needle nosed plyers
  • Floor Jack (if you decide to remove the crossmember)

Start by blocking off the tires and setting the parking break.  The Jeep may need to be shifted into neutral during the install.
 
Here are the parts in the Kit: Body side bracket, Transmission bracket, Shifter cable, and a bag containing 4 Allen head bolts, transfer case lever, ball joint of some type, and a clevis yoke.
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If you haven't already remove the front drive shaft.  Use 8mm Socket or wrench to remove the bolts on the front diff yoke and 1/2 wrench for the transfer case yoke bolts.
 
Removed was the body side linkage bracket.  It is located on the driver's side of the transmission tunnel.
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I had the joy of removing bed liner from the bolts holding the body side bracket on.
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Its a PITA getting that stuff off.
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Use a 10mm wrench or socket to remove the bolts.  After all the bolts are removed the bracket should fall off.
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I had to use a wrench to pry the linkage bracket from the shifter bushing. I then used a knife to remove the Bushing it self.
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Installing the new Novak body bracket did not go on as smoothly as I would have liked.  I also needed a second person to put the bolts on while I held the bracket in place.  Use an Allen Wrench (sorry not sure what size) to install the body mount.  Not all the holes lined up properly, but it did not take much to fix the problem.
1505350_10202475262383363_1036452719_n.j
 
Next I moved on to the Transfer case lever.  Use a 9/16 wrench to remove it.  
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There are some Differences between the stock lever and the Novak lever.
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As in Flint54's thread I later discovered I needed to add a new hole to the Novak lever.  I used a drill bit the same size as the hole...  Sorry I don't know what size it is.  Before you copy my placement please read THIS thread by Flint54.  But After I had everything together I guessed where it needed to be based on the placement of the clevis yoke...  The new hole placement between My TC lever and Flint54's lever seem to be about the same.
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Reinstall the Transfer case lever using the 9/16 wrench or socket.
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These two bolts will need to be removed with a 9/16 wrench.  (I did not have any of the AX-15 linkage brackets.)
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Place the bracket on the Transfer case studs and replace the bolts.
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I attached the Cable as instructed in Flint54's install thread.  Note: My cable did not line up directly to the Handle lever and Transfer case lever.
Both cables are adjusted by two 15/16 nuts.  Like in Flint54's Install both cables are installed as to where the aft bolt just has full thread engagement.
 
This picture shows the Transmission mount adjustment.
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This picture shows the body mount adjustment.
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Here are how the two ends attach to the handle and transfer case levers.
 
Handle Lever
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Transfer case Lever
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Reattach front drive shaft...
 
Now everything should be hooked up.  Thus far the biggest difference between My install and Flint54's is the shift gate.  I currently have the 231 gate on the truck, I have a 242 gate somewhere I just need to locate it..  I did not need to trim my shift gate as Flint54 did, I may however trim the rear of the gate to ensure complete engagement of 4LO. As is it shifts fine into all 5 positions.  Novak did state in its instructions some shifter handles where bent slightly differently, the end result was the end angle lever attached to the Handle.  This may be why I did not require trimming the gate and Flint54 did...
1503267_10202482642447860_1214587049_n.j
 
After messing around with it more during the day i noticed while shifting the handle into 2wd I was bumping the console (circled in red).  I may end up trimming the shift gate like Flint54 did during his install at the areas circled in yellow.
1472947_10202482642367858_935857101_n.jp
 
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  • 2 weeks later...

I got a few things over the weekend, My E-locker arrived Friday and I wired in the switch for the Locker.  I also bought a cheap set of fog lights from the Auto parts store and have them set up as well.  

 

Fog lights installed, but not aligned yet.

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After i ran the wiring for the locker, i decided the factory switch bezel needed to be cleaned up.  I used Plasit dip to re-paint the bezel.  It almost matches the same color as factory and it has the same texture as well.

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I am going to make or purchase a label for the front locker.  I was going to use a factory switch but decided the larger light on the switch would be more noticeable.

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I decided it was finally time to install the WJ LCAs.  I was getting tired of tires rubbing on sharp turns.  I have WJ UCAs but I did not want to swap them out just yet as my daylight was limited.

1501606_10202705501499197_780037768_o.jp

 

The picture below shoes some of the modifications to the axle side LCA mount.

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the bushings on the LCAs need to be trimmed to fit the mounts.

 

I finished installing the drivers side first.  The passengers side went in without much trouble. 

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My new Warn light bar arrived today as well.

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I installed new switches that matched the one for the Elocker.  They fit the stock holes perfectly

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I finished installing the light bar and some cheap lights from the Auto parts store.  I plan to get better lights in the future.  The top two lights are "driving" lights and are aimed towards the sides of the road. Those lights are looked up via relay and can be activated at any time.  The bottom tow lights are "fog" lights and are hooked up through the Factory setup.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I took the MJ to Steve's off road today. He said I should have it back in 2 - 4 days.  I can't wait to get the truck back.

 

The Feb 1st I installed a new thermostat, the engine seems to be getting to about the proper temperature now.  Hopefully the fuel economy will improve slightly.

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How is it I have over 400 pictures of my Jeep taken over the past 5 years and I don't have a good "complete" picture of the engine compartment?

 

Steve's Off Road called, the truck that is on the rack is giving them problems and has delayed my install again.  They should be able to start on my MJ on Monday, they where going to give me a price break due to the delays.  Can't wait to get the truck back.

 

Dad should be getting home from the ship soon.  We are planning a trip to the P&P when he gets back.  I also want to install the WJ UCAs and replace the D30 UCA's bushings.

 

In the near future I need to buy a new track bar.  I have been looking at the Iron Rock Double Shear adjustable track bar for a while.

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I'm really enjoying your build! You should really enjoy it with the e-locker and 4.10s when it's all said and done!

 

Nice like your build so far! 

 

Thanks!  :cheers:

 

An update of the past few days,

 

As I was driving the MJ home the brakes went out, and the emergency bypass line works.  I thought i would never need it and was planning to replace the MJs brake setup with one from an XJ or ZJ.  Now i plan to keep the MJ set up.

 

The MJ is back at the shop and they are looking over it to determine what caused the brake frailer.  I should hear back from them today.

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The MJ decided not to start....  power to everything, I can hear the solenoid working, but the starter it self is not  working for whatever reason.. I had just started it 5 min earlier.  Bought a new starter, not sure how old the current one is. The new starter also has a lifetime warranty.  hopefully this will fix my problem.

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I had the same issue with my Wrangler YJ one time.  We were in Moab UT and planning on a long overnight run.  I started the Jeep and went to put in gas, worked great.  Pumped the gas and started the Jeep to move it to a parking space, worked great.  Got some supply's and started it to go back to our campground, started fine.

 

When we got ready to roll out I turned the key and got nothing.  I could hear the solenoid but the starter wouldn't turn.  Tapped it with a hammer and got it to start.  Drove down to a parts store to buy a new one.  Spent about 20 minutes changing it out in the parking lot.   

 

I was glad it quit working when it did because the trail we ran was 100 miles long and we only saw 2 motorcycles.  We had to help the motorcyclist as one of them had put a 1 inch round hole through his oil pan, BMW 800 Adventurer.  He did not have anything to fix it and he was 45 miles from Moab but that's another story. 

 

Ron

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Yesterday I worked on the MJ again.  Replaced the idler pulley, and determined the EGR valve was not working. So i removed and capped the vacuum lines till i decide to make it work again. I discovered i have a huge crack in the exhaust manifold, figured i had the crack before but confirmed it.  One of my reverse lights where out, I replaced both with some that claim to be 40% brighter, thus far i am not impressed.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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