bthomps875 Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 just wondering how you would bleed the clutch and if possible can you adjust the clutch pedal to make it less soft feeling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMJ Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 Just bled mine, have someone depress the pedal and hold it down, then open bleeder. Repeat until air is out of system. Took me 10 or 12 times, don't rush it. Don't forget to check fluid after a couple of times. No adjustment that I'm aware of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthomps875 Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 thanks appreciate it dumb question though where is the bleeder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMJ Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 Look for the lines coming out of the bellhousing, drivers side. You'll see the bleeder on one of them. You'll need a 9/16" and 1/4" wrench, at least that's what I used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthomps875 Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 awesome thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthShore440 Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Just bled mine, have someone depress the pedal and hold it down, then open bleeder. Repeat until air is out of system. Took me 10 or 12 times, don't rush it. Don't forget to check fluid after a couple of times. No adjustment that I'm aware of. ? clutch ... no bleeding required, just pump it up. its not like your brake system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthShore440 Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Just bled mine, have someone depress the pedal and hold it down, then open bleeder. Repeat until air is out of system. Took me 10 or 12 times, don't rush it. Don't forget to check fluid after a couple of times. No adjustment that I'm aware of. ? clutch ... no bleeding required, just pump it up. its not like your brake system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beepbeepmyredjeep Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Just bled mine, have someone depress the pedal and hold it down, then open bleeder. Repeat until air is out of system. Took me 10 or 12 times, don't rush it. Don't forget to check fluid after a couple of times. No adjustment that I'm aware of. ? clutch ... no bleeding required, just pump it up. its not like your brake system. You need to bleed your clutch whenever you replace a component in the clutch hydraulic assembly, such as the clutch master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91coMANche Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 I didn't have anyone to help me when I bled my clutch after my ZJ engine swap so I gravity bled the clutch. The pedal is firm with no spongyness whatsoever. I don't know if its the right thing to do but gravity bleeding got me on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Internal or external slave? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthomps875 Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 internal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 First make sure there are no issues with MC so you don't have to do it again. IE:leaks Then, just like brakes, pump it up, hold it to the floor, open, close. do it again. Bleeder exits bell housing where pressure line goes in. Make sure MC stays full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Just bled mine, have someone depress the pedal and hold it down, then open bleeder. Repeat until air is out of system. Took me 10 or 12 times, don't rush it. Don't forget to check fluid after a couple of times. No adjustment that I'm aware of. You have it backwards. The sequence is * Open bleeder * Assistant pushes peddle down SLOWLY (and holds it down) * Close bleeder * Assistant lets peddle up Check fluid level in master Repeat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mj Mike Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 :agree: :smart: Eagle You have it backwards. The sequence is * Open bleeder * Assistant pushes peddle down SLOWLY (and holds it down) * Close bleeder * Assistant lets peddle up Check fluid level in master Repeat until there is no air bubbles in the fluid coming from the bleeder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthomps875 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 awesome guys thanks alot next question is there anything i could use to replace brake fluid in the clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mj Mike Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 I Think dot 3 break fluid is all that is available :hmm: It is a hydrochloric system! dot 3 is the right stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kro10000 Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 And youll never have the pedal really firm, there must always be some pedal free play, to preserve the throw out bearing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthomps875 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 ah good to know its my first standard jeep so its all new to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthomps875 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 bled the clutch and now it grabs at about half way feels alot better thanks everyone if you feel this is a good point for the clutch to grab please by all means let me know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mj Mike Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 bled the clutch and now it grabs at about half way feels alot better thanks everyone if you feel this is a good point for the clutch to grab please by all means let me know :agree: ya, on my clutches they grabs at about 1/4 to 1/2 way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 awesome guys thanks alot next question is there anything i could use to replace brake fluid in the clutch Most auto parts stores sell "hydraulic clutch fluid." It's basically the same as brake fluid, and I have no idea why they package and market it as a different product. Considering all the problems brake fluid can cause, I use DOT 5 silicone in both my brakes and in the clutch. People told me I was crazy and asking for problems when I put it in the clutch, but that was 11 years and almost 90,000 miles ago on the '88 Cherokee (which was the first one I changed over) and I haven't noticed any problems yet. If my clutch master ever leaks back into the cab, the silicone won't destroy the fuse panel. Plus, I don't have to worry about internal corrosion in the steel lines because silicone isn't hygroscopic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mj Mike Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 i did some research :agree: DOT 5 silicone is used in hi performance Break system's & Clutch system's if you go With Dot 5 silicone in ether of these system, Bleed out all the old Dot 3 form the system thoroughly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDAN1 Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 i did some research :agree: DOT 5 silicone is used in hi performance Break system's & Clutch system's if you go With Dot 5 silicone in ether of these system, Bleed out all the old Dot 3 form the system thoroughly! I was researching this topic today and ran across this thread. Question: Does anyone know the best way to bleed the Dot 3 fluid from the clutch master, slave (external) and lines? :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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