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First impressions after switching to Redline 10/30


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Well my 4.0 has almost 170,000 miles and since 110,000 (When I bought it) I have been using chevron 10/40. A few weeks ago and about 500 miles ago I switched to redline 10/30 synthetic and an old K&N oil filter I had laying around. I was reluctant to do so as I have read threads on many boards about leaks developing, but to date no leaks and as a bonus my lifters aren't nearly as noisy as they used to be. Thus far I have to say I am very pleased with the Redline oil. :cheers:

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I think your title should reference synthetic oils, not just one particular brand.

 

I bought my truck with 185 on what I believe was the untouched original 4.0. Due to the condition of the truck, I think it was safe to say it was not running synthetic oil. I put in my preferred synthetic oil. She certainly did not develop any new leaks and the slight lifter noise stayed the same. Another 15K on the motor and she ran good when pulled out.

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That sounds good to me, since I have not tested any other synthetic with my current Jeep I thought I might keep the conversation to something I was sure of. If other folks want to comment about going to synthetic on a high mileage engine, I think that would be very productive. :cheers:

I think your title should reference synthetic oils, not just one particular brand.

 

I bought my truck with 185 on what I believe was the untouched original 4.0. Due to the condition of the truck, I think it was safe to say it was not running synthetic oil. I put in my preferred synthetic oil. She certainly did not develop any new leaks and the slight lifter noise stayed the same. Another 15K on the motor and she ran good when pulled out.

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I will say this about synthetics... Before I worked in the maintenance dept for the city, a cop drove through a flooded intersection, and bent a few rods. His words... "It was really deep, so I decided to go through it, and when the water started rolling over the hood, it bogged down, so I floored it to get through." :fs1: They put in a crate 4.6, and put in the oil they run in everything (synthetic) and its never run right since. I don't think it ever broke in properly, and the thing burns 2 quarts every 3,000 miles. Car is going to auction this September. :roll:

 

My boss asked me what I thought when I first started, and once I found that out, I told him it was because of that. I was always told synth in a new engine was a bad idea.

Rob L.

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I ran 3 changes of dino oil (first 2500 miles) in my freshly rebult 4.0 in the TJ. Now have 70K miles on it. Doesn't burn or drip anything.

 

I was told you are never supposed to break a motor in on synthetic, even if liberal amounts of assembly lube is used.

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Yep, ya gotta break 'em in first. As I understand it, the rings won't seal as well (now this was several years back, things might have changed).....break-in is, after all, a "wear-in" of sorts.

 

Totally agree. That's why I always assumed it had the oil consumption problem, because the rings never got a chance to seat.

 

Rob L.

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and so what about all those ads touting Mobil-1 full syn as the oil that came to you in your brand new high end car... :hmm: My CRD Libby has had Mobil-1 since day one as far as I know.:dunno:

 

That was my point in saying that things might have changed a bit over the years. There are a number of autos that now come out of the factory with the syn........break-in and "seasoning" are done now by the factory. Engines are run up to operating temp, then cooled several times to set the rings, provide the necessary "stress relief", etc. The factory uses a "break-in oil" for this phase, then gives it a fresh fill of the syn before it goes out the door. This process is not done with many motorcycle or marine outboards yet, which is why they still have mandatory break-in periods. If you or I do a complete engine rebuild, we'd be wise to break it in with a petroleum-based oil for awhile before the switch. And if I were inclined to buy a new car today that didn't come from the factory with synthetic, I'd sure put a few thousand miles on the odo before changing over to synthetic.

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Patriot with about 3500 miles now. Too early for synthetic? Been mostly highway driving.

 

You are perfectly fine switching at this point. 3500 miles on the highway is still 3500 miles.

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Anyone running this in their AX-15?

 

 

Why would you want to, when the correct fluid is available???

 

What fluid would you suggest?

10w30 is the suggested fluid for an ax15 right now, actually.

 

i'm running a standard off the shelf 10w30 in my truck since i didn't want to pour 50$ worth of high-end fluid in a 20$ transmission if it turned out to be no-good.

 

lots of companies like redline and royal purple make manual transmission fluid, but i don't know if they're the sort that will eat the synchros in our super-picky/ancient transmissions.

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Anyone running this in their AX-15?

 

 

Why would you want to, when the correct fluid is available???

 

What fluid would you suggest?

 

 

Redline MT-90 or Amsoil MTG are both excellent choices. The both meet the API-GL-4 rating which means much lower levels of sulfur, which is what attacks and destroys the yellow metal parts of the transmission. Both are 75w-90 gear lubes, so they meet the original viscosity requirements also.

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Anyone running this in their AX-15?

 

 

Why would you want to, when the correct fluid is available???

 

What fluid would you suggest?

 

 

Redline MT-90 or Amsoil MTG are both excellent choices. The both meet the API-GL-4 rating which means much lower levels of sulfur, which is what attacks and destroys the yellow metal parts of the transmission. Both are 75w-90 gear lubes, so they meet the original viscosity requirements also.

 

Great info thanks! I'm running M1 10w-30 High Mileage right now and the case seems to get awfully hot... I've read good things about Amsoil, but its not easy to get in my area. Not sure about where to get Redline it in my area. Do you think the trans will run cooler with the correct viscosity?

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Anyone running this in their AX-15?

 

 

Why would you want to, when the correct fluid is available???

 

What fluid would you suggest?

 

 

Redline MT-90 or Amsoil MTG are both excellent choices. The both meet the API-GL-4 rating which means much lower levels of sulfur, which is what attacks and destroys the yellow metal parts of the transmission. Both are 75w-90 gear lubes, so they meet the original viscosity requirements also.

 

Great info thanks! I'm running M1 10w-30 High Mileage right now and the case seems to get awfully hot... I've read good things about Amsoil, but its not easy to get in my area. Not sure about where to get Redline it in my area. Do you think the trans will run cooler with the correct viscosity?

 

Question, or I am really dense. You ave an manual transmission and are running 10w-30 (engine oil viscosity) in a trans that should be using 75w-90 (trans viscosity)? Am I missing something here? Would this not be causing your awfully hot transmission case???? :hmm:

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Question, or I am really dense. You ave an manual transmission and are running 10w-30 (engine oil viscosity) in a trans that should be using 75w-90 (trans viscosity)? Am I missing something here? Would this not be causing your awfully hot transmission case???? :hmm:

 

the lube requirement for the AX-15 has changed drastically over the years to include 10w30 and 75-90

 

i beleive the recommended fluid to be 10w30 motor oil right now

 

pete m? are you credible on this one?

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