500 MJ Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 These are the tow points that I have used now on every one of the XJs and MJs I've ever owned. The nice thing about them is that they are cheap to make and completely bolt on. They are easily accessible on the front of the vehicle. I've yanked many other Jeeps out with them and have been yanked out many times myself with them. Like most front tow points you can also make a tow bar to fit them for flat towing your XJ/MJ on the road. The only problems with them are that you have to cut slots in your front bumper to let them poke through and I drilled another hole in my frame to tie them in with three bolts on each side.Here they are on both of my MJs.The process starts with some strap steel, I've always used at least 3/16" thick but prefer to use 1/4". The pieces that you use have to be long enough to fit the stock holes for the bumper and also to protrude out of the front bumper enough that the hole for your tow hook clears the bumper - I use 11.5" long pieces. Here is the location of the holes that need to be drilled in the steel and other various "machining".I have this drawing available in .pdf format, if you would like a copy to print it, please PM meOnce you have these brackets made you then weld the spanning pipe to the location marked for it. I put this pipe in to serve a few purposes: (1) I thought it would stiffen up my front end and provide another "bumper" under the stock one. (2) I thought it might help spread out the load from one bracket to both of them and also allow the brackets to be pulled from the side rather than always straight on. (3) I like to weld every chance I get. :rotfl2:On each set of these that I have made I have removed the front bumper at this step and then bolted the brackets on each side of the truck, measured the pipe, cut it and tack-welded it all together while it was still on the truck. Some of the lengths of the pipe have varied slightly, but 32 3/4" seems to be a good starting point to gather materials with. The tighter you cut the pipe to fit between the brackets the better off your end product will be.Here are a few OLD shots of this process when I made a set for my '88, forgot to take new shots for the last set I've made for my '90. On this older set I used 2 1/2" steel rather than 3"... No real reason, just what was available at the time...After you finish your welds you should have something like this:Now paint it and then bolt it up to the truck, I use a combination of new and old hardware for this (see pics). I sandwich the tow points between the bumper brackets and the frame. The top two bumper bracket bolt holes are used now and the third bottom one is still open. I fill this gap left by adding the brackets on with some washers and then snug the third bumper bracket bolt down and call it good.The third hole I made in the bracket is bolted up here as well. Drill a 1/2" hole in the frame steel and then use boxed end wrenches and needle nose pliers to thread the nut (and washers) onto the bolt inside the frame through the factory oblong holes in the front of the truck's frame. Don't tell me I'm crazy, IT CAN BE DONE! I always anit-seize this bolt good so I never have issues down the road.Passenger's sideDriver's sideNow you can measure on the back of your bumper and cut the slots in it. Measure, measure measure and then cut. I used a small drill to drill small holes in the bumper to see how close I was with my location where the tow points "should" be and after I tweaked things a bit I got it located and then cut my slots. Those little holes you made with the drill can be plugged easily with some body fiberglass or welded shut. This is what you are aiming to get with it.Once you have everything put back together you are done. Enjoy!A few more shots of the old set I made for reference: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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