mnkyboy Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 are those even doing anything on your truck? I would think with your big tires your hitting the wheel wells long before those even would come into play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 are those even doing anything on your truck? I would think with your big tires your hitting the wheel wells long before those even would come into play. lol :cheers: its such a great night out tonight when i talk to someone about my truck . no one understands why i own Her. but its American to go where you want when you want. .......... 8) but yeah my tires hit my wheel wells and hits my fenders they are about to fall off. ........ but yeah i bought this truck about 8 months ago and since its been a money pit. i really have not noticed it that much until now when i hear it can break my leaf springs how it sits wrong and all, and i want to take it off. but I'm a lone soldier here in my valley. i don't even have a spare tire . or a jack. yeah its that bad. but its my project. its a love i guess because i don't spend this much money on my girlfriend/wife..... :doh: but there are some amazing mjs here . a blue print of every mod i can do. :banana: :banana: :banana: so i guess its just about getting my own garage and a welder............... but i will take that double shackle off. and what do you guys think about not running sway bars @ all. ? Image Not Found which shackle should i take off A or B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdiamond Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 From what i can tell you need to take A off. which ever one is shorter, take off. and i don't run swap bars on my truck, and have never had a problem. but i also know how to drive it so that i don't have to worry about it. you just have to realize that without a sway bar it handles differently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted July 23, 2009 Author Share Posted July 23, 2009 From what i can tell you need to take A off. which ever one is shorter, take off. and i don't run swap bars on my truck, and have never had a problem. but i also know how to drive it so that i don't have to worry about it. you just have to realize that without a sway bar it handles differently. :agree: and take off the shorter shackle .... will post pics when all done guys :cheers: when i got the truck it had no sway bars. but i love how it drives with out them. even going 60 down the road it drives pretty straight so i will not put them on :clapping: . and there are no hubs. so don't even have to get out of truck always ready to go off road. :clapping: :clapping: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 :cheers: when i got the truck it had no sway bars. but i love how it drives with out them. even going 60 down the road it drives pretty straight so i will not put them on :clapping: . Sway bars do nothing going straight down the road. They control body roll in turns. Just hope that you don't have to take any evasive maneuvers with that much lift. :shake: You already have the brackets. Just go to the junk yard and pick up a sway bar and get some disconnects. Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 :cheers: when i got the truck it had no sway bars. but i love how it drives with out them. even going 60 down the road it drives pretty straight so i will not put them on :clapping: . Sway bars do nothing going straight down the road. They control body roll in turns. Just hope that you don't have to take any evasive maneuvers with that much lift. :shake: You already have the brackets. Just go to the junk yard and pick up a sway bar and get some disconnects. Willy i love my body roll. :banana: :banana: its fun :banana: :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 your double shackle (a.k.a. scissor shackle) has been done improperly. the upper shackle should be angled towards the front of the vehicle, and there should be a "retainer" on it that keeps it from flexing towards the rear. there should also be a poly spacer between the lower shackle and the head of the upper shackle. this spacer will control the amount of lift/lack of lift that the shackle gives you, as well as allowing for a smoother operation. like so: note the spacer on which the shackle rests. also note, (and this is easier to see on the "at rest" picture) the lip that is on the upper shackle where the two shackles meet. this lip keeps the lower pair of shackles from inverting towards the rear of the vehicle after being fully extended. if one shackle does invert towards the rear, you will have an uneven/rough ridebecause the shackles upper mounting point (body mount) and lower mounting point (leaf spring mount) are not resting on each other...that will put strain on the center of the shackles, eventually resulting in them failing in that area. also, you want the shackles to be angled towards the front of the jeep because you are typically driving it in forward motion, and this will promote less tendancy to lift at higher speeds. view this thread for proper concepts on the funcionality of a scissor shackle system http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... ht=shackle I will be doing a proper shackle setup in the near future, and will do a write-up when I do so. -Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 :cheers: when i got the truck it had no sway bars. but i love how it drives with out them. even going 60 down the road it drives pretty straight so i will not put them on :clapping: . Sway bars do nothing going straight down the road. They control body roll in turns. Just hope that you don't have to take any evasive maneuvers with that much lift. :shake: You already have the brackets. Just go to the junk yard and pick up a sway bar and get some disconnects. Willy i love my body roll. :banana: :banana: its fun :banana: :banana: My apologies. I'll do my best not to clutter your thread with any useful advice in the future. :shake: Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 :cheers: when i got the truck it had no sway bars. but i love how it drives with out them. even going 60 down the road it drives pretty straight so i will not put them on :clapping: . Sway bars do nothing going straight down the road. They control body roll in turns. Just hope that you don't have to take any evasive maneuvers with that much lift. :shake: You already have the brackets. Just go to the junk yard and pick up a sway bar and get some disconnects. Willy i love my body roll. :banana: :banana: its fun :banana: :banana: My apologies. I'll do my best not to clutter your thread with any useful advice in the future. :shake: :fool: Willy willy your the man :bowdown: . for real .i don't know a whole lot. i just like going offroad and having a good daily driver . this truck has a long way to go before its trail ready. and the club knows everything about anything . and you are an expert. ............................... sorry if i seem like a a$$hole sometimes. I'm really a nice guy. just don't have much time or money to work on truck. times are rough . .. ... .... .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james750 Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 The 8.25 can be a decent axle with the 29 spline. It is very comparable with the 44 with the 29 spline, but with the 27 spline, it is more comparable with the 35. the swap was more than likely done at the same time as the SOA was done. I would guess that if someone was going to do the swap they would do it with a 29 spline rather than a 27 spline so that they got the upgrade out of it. Not sure if you know or not, but what axle shafts are you running in that Dana 30 and 8.25? I have a fairly similar axle setup to yours except that I have put a non-disconnect Dana 30 in for the larger ujoints, and I want to run the larger tires, but I need to upgrade axles to handle the large tires like you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 The 8.25 can be a decent axle with the 29 spline. It is very comparable with the 44 with the 29 spline, but with the 27 spline, it is more comparable with the 35. the swap was more than likely done at the same time as the SOA was done. I would guess that if someone was going to do the swap they would do it with a 29 spline rather than a 27 spline so that they got the upgrade out of it. Not sure if you know or not, but what axle shafts are you running in that Dana 30 and 8.25? I have a fairly similar axle setup to yours except that I have put a non-disconnect Dana 30 in for the larger ujoints, and I want to run the larger tires, but I need to upgrade axles to handle the large tires like you have. i have clue what axle shafts I'm running . I'm still trying to get my running lights working.... my clutch master leaked down on fuse box :fs1: so i got my new one to day Image Not Found and a can of break cleaner for the fuse box. if that does not work then i think it is the headlight pull knob switch.............. :wavey: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james750 Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Don't put brake cleaner on that fuse box! It can damage it just as the brake fluid can damage it. try to wipe it off the best you can and if you must use cleaner then spray it on a rag and just dab it on carefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueXJ Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Don't put brake cleaner on that fuse box! It can damage it just as the brake fluid can damage it. try to wipe it off the best you can and if you must use cleaner then spray it on a rag and just dab it on carefully. James is right the cleaner will react with the brake fluid and it will be more difficult to get it clean. DISCONNECT the battery first before attempting to work around that fuse block. Remove the fuse block and then clean the mess caused by the leaking master. Then let it dry and repaint the area with a spray can before remounting the fuse block. Then re-connect the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 Don't put brake cleaner on that fuse box! It can damage it just as the brake fluid can damage it. try to wipe it off the best you can and if you must use cleaner then spray it on a rag and just dab it on carefully. James is right the cleaner will react with the brake fluid and it will be more difficult to get it clean. DISCONNECT the battery first before attempting to work around that fuse block. Remove the fuse block and then clean the mess caused by the leaking master. Then let it dry and repaint the area with a spray can before remounting the fuse block. Then re-connect the battery. yeah but it say it "drys clean" and yeah disconnect the battery.... but do i need to bleed my clutch after i install it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 yes. and no, brake clean doesn't "dry clean" so well when mixed with brake fluid plus electrical contact points. there will be a little bit of residue left that will continue to be corrosive. use electrical contact cleaner (comes in aerosol form) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted July 28, 2009 Author Share Posted July 28, 2009 yes. and no, brake clean doesn't "dry clean" so well when mixed with brake fluid plus electrical contact points. there will be a little bit of residue left that will continue to be corrosive. use electrical contact cleaner (comes in aerosol form) thank you . and is that a yes i do need to bleed the clutch master cylinder after install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 so install the new clutch master cylinder cleaned leads. and a new head light switch .still no running lights :fs1: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 How does the running lights circuit look at your fuse box? You said it yourself that you had fluid leaking on it. Might check that... Could be the cause of this - and many other future issues. I've been there and did the fuse box swap. In my opinion its the Only bad thing about owning a manual trans XJ/MJ. Its not a fun one to replace... If the contacts are falling away from the plastic or are broken you will need to replace the whole thing. I found it easier to get the new fuse block and then cut and solder all of the wires coming into it rather than take apart the whole dash. Make sure you have a 1/4 drive 1/4 inch (6 pt preferred) socket, you'll need it to separate the fuse block from the firewall on the engine side... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 How does the running lights circuit look at your fuse box? You said it yourself that you had fluid leaking on it. Might check that... Could be the cause of this - and many other future issues. I've been there and did the fuse box swap. In my opinion its the Only bad thing about owning a manual trans XJ/MJ. Its not a fun one to replace... If the contacts are falling away from the plastic or are broken you will need to replace the whole thing. I found it easier to get the new fuse block and then cut and solder all of the wires coming into it rather than take apart the whole dash. Make sure you have a 1/4 drive 1/4 inch (6 pt preferred) socket, you'll need it to separate the fuse block from the firewall on the engine side... i did separate the fuse block from the firewall and cleaned everthing. and the is the running lights circuit a fuse or is a specail block thingy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990 Pioneer 4x4 Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 is that good? from what i understand, anything is better than a D35 - so yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonman Posted August 6, 2009 Author Share Posted August 6, 2009 is that good? from what i understand, anything is better than a D35 - so yes. grrr my trucks is in the shop trying to get the running lights figured out i have no time to work on it right now. :headpop: :headpop: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 M.O.R.E doesn't list a Ford 8.8 kit for an MJ. For XJ and YJ, but not MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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