Got my comanche back!!! Now I need an exhaust.

[clarkerussell]

Hello everyone,

 

I FINALLY got my truck back after a 2 year 4x4 conversion ordeal, I'll explain more in a different post tonight... The truck runs great, and things seem to work, but I REALLY need a new exhaust and/or manifold. The sound is terrible! I have not inspected the manifold yet, but as the car is a 1988 with 115K miles, I'm sure it's due for a replacement, besides, they are pretty cheap. I've seen quite a few aftermarket Stainless Steel manifolds in the $130 range on eBay, but wanted to check with you guys before I pulled the trigger on something. Does anyone have a better suggestion? Here is one that I'm looking at:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-88-Jeep-Comanche-Truck-Exhaust-Manifold-242ci-4-0L_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem3ca2ec618aQQitemZ260431438218QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1707wt_1356

 

Also, any suggestions on an exhaust?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Clarke

[CRF136N]

As a matter of fact, I just did the exhaust manifold replacement on my '88 4.0 today. I wouldn't be suprised if thats your problem as EVERY 4.0 jeep I have owned I have had to replace it on, but on the other hand 115k miles seems a little low for it to crack just yet; You can usually look down in the cracks between the intake stuff with a flashlight, and see right at the very back where the "y" split is; thats where they always crack. I say to inspect first because its a VERY labor intensive job...and it just sucks, especially if you've never done one before; one of my most hated repairs on these Jeeps...and expect to pay a mint to have a shop do for for you, that said, I say DO IT YOURSELF if it needs it...it requires relatively basic hand tools and like I say, its just time consuming and plan for some busted knuckles and if you have big hands, have someone with small hands handy as otherwise you will need to bend your body in ways it wasn't meant to go. If you choose this route, PM me and I will gladly walk you through it step-by-step and all the tools you will need. I have found those cheap ebay replacements to be fine.

 

As for a muffler; Flowmaster 40 series!!! :banana: Sure, you can go down to your local auto supply and get some OEM replacement for $60 bux that may last you a couple years before a baffle lets loose and starts rattling, but those flowmaster 40's are quality and make these 4.0 Jeeps sound BITCHIN :thumbsup: I got mine through Summit Racing for like $100 bux and just clamped it on. Don't remember if its a 2.25 or 2.5 in pipe, or I may be totally wrong with all my projects I got going on right now...someone on here should know. Anyway, good luck!

 

James

[CRF136N]

I suppose I should say, if your not into a nice throaty sound out of your jeep, the flowmaster 50 series is also a good choice, a little more mellow toned

[mvusse]

For price you can't beat a glass pack. A glass pack with the stock cat is not very loud at all. Imagine without a cat it would be, though.

[jeep_freek88]

For price you can't beat a glass pack. A glass pack with the stock cat is not very loud at all. Imagine without a cat it would be, though.

 

 

I have a cherry bomb and no cat it is not loud at all. really deep though throaty awesome sound

[89eliminator]

i bought one similar to that manifold a few months back. my stock one had 5 different cracks in it.

 

for a muffler i would recommend the FM 40. got mine fore $70 at a local auto parts store.

here is what it sounds like

[mvusse]

Glass pack is $15-$30 depending on what you get.

[Jeepcom23]

Where are you located?

There is a guy locally that has 2 sets of Edelbrock headers for the 4.0 for $100 cash money.

 

I picked one up.

[ratrapp]

i've got a catco hi-flow converter,2 1/2 aluminized pipe with a 40 series flowmaster with a 2 1/2 tailpipe.i've got about $240 in the whole thing and sounds alot better than the dynomax superturbo that i had on it.

[clarkerussell]

Where are you located?

There is a guy locally that has 2 sets of Edelbrock headers for the 4.0 for $100 cash money.

 

I picked one up.

 

I'm in Charlotte, NC. Where are you?

[clarkerussell]

OK,

 

I think I'm going to go with the Flowmaster 50 muffler. I can get the muffler from a guy on eBay for $99 with free shipping and the tail pipe is available at Advance Auto Parts for $67. All of these are 2.25" diameter, so I'm assuming that's the factory dimension. I guess we'll see :).

 

Clarke

[88mjmanche]

and by the way is you are going to do the exhaust manaifold by your self buy new bolts for it before you rip it all apart you always break one of them :rant: oo and yea i have olny 73000 miles on my comanche and one of the tubes is completey cracked off sounds like $#!& :ack:

[clarkerussell]

OK, well I got my Flowmaster 50 Delta ($115) and a Walker tail pipe ($70) from Advance Auto Parts this afternoon and will be installing it this week. I went ahead and bought some Exhaust sealing paste for the slip joints and two new clamps. I didn't buy hangers because I didn't know what type to get, but once I'm under the truck, I'm planning on replacing them.

 

Next question... The Walker pipe is rather plain. Is there a more attractive tail pipe cover that doesn't LOOK like a tail pipe cover? All they had at Advance were the 6" long chrome ones that are attached with a screw... Those look like crap. I just want a 2.25" inner diameter "sleeve" that slides over the rather ugly aluminized pipe. Nothing fancy.

 

Thanks.

 

Clarke

[Pete M]

Stainless steel clamps are your fiends. :D

[clarkerussell]

Stainless steel clamps are your fiends. :D

 

I didn't see any, all I found at Advance Auto were the steel "U" bolt design. Are you referring to the ones that look more like a hose clamp?

[Pete M]

I've used the big band clamp ones too and either will work fine, even 10 years later. :D I believe I mail-ordered mine, probably from jcw.com The dang things outlived the pipe. :thumbsup:

[clarkerussell]

OK, another issue has popped up... I started removing my exhaust and found that it's the original exhaust, and that the muffler appears to have been factory WELDED to the catalytic converter (notice the shiny ring on the flange, it goes all around in a perfect line). It was on the flange that goes from the rear of the cat to the front of the muffler. There was also a U-Clamp on it. As evidenced by the picture below, I tried breaking it free with a chisel and hammer, but it would not budge.

 

Is this normal on the factory exhaust? If so, is there any suggestion on removing it? If I have to take it to a shop and pay someone to cut it, I might as well just buy a new cat for $100 and replace the whole thing. Thanks.

 

Clarke

[Jeepcom23]

Where are you located?

There is a guy locally that has 2 sets of Edelbrock headers for the 4.0 for $100 cash money.

 

I picked one up.

 

I'm in Charlotte, NC. Where are you?

 

 

crap man, sorry, I havent even checked this thread since I posted I'm in Southern Tn

[clarkerussell]

Where are you located?

There is a guy locally that has 2 sets of Edelbrock headers for the 4.0 for $100 cash money.

 

I picked one up.

 

I'm in Charlotte, NC. Where are you?

 

 

crap man, sorry, I havent even checked this thread since I posted I'm in Southern Tn

 

Are you in the Eastern or western part of southern TN?

[clarkerussell]

OK, after sawing through the old tail pipe and unbolting the Cat, I had more access to the "weld". After about 30-45 minutes of grinding, pulling, tearing, and cursing, I got the old pipe separated from the cat... whew...

 

Now, I'm about to install the system and there are going to be two slip joints. Do I need to use some sort of paste to make sure the joints are properly sealed? I was planning on using something like this:

 

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Clarke

[clarkerussell]

Well, I finally got the exhaust back on. I used a Flowmaster 50 Series Delta Flow Muffler and a pre-bent Walker tail pipe from Advance Auto Parts. Total cost for muffler, pipe, clamps and paste came to just under $190.

 

After I removed the old pipe that had fused itself to the cat, I only ran into one other issue. The Walker tail pipe was about 4-5 inches too long. Perhaps it was that the Flowmaster was too long, but regardless, I had to cut the tail pipe down to fit. As the part I cut has a slightly reduced diameter, it made for a VERY tight fit into the back of the Flowmaster. I had to wiggle it in and then use a mallet to fully seat the pipe. After it was all done, all the hangers lined up and all seemed good. The only think that worries me is that the tail pipe seems to be pointing up which would keep condensation from draining out. Check out what I mean here:

 

Also, I'm not sure if the tailpipe alignment it where it should be. It seem to me that it should be an inch or two further forward. See the attached pic for it's final placement.

 

 

Thanks everyone.

 

Clarke

 

P.S.- It sounds very good compared to the rotted out OEM one I had before... virtually no cabin noise, but a good exhaust note outside. For giggles I fired it up without the cat or exhaust. Wow. that was pretty loud... sweet sounding, but loud.

[Codycobra84]

 

I'm in Charlotte, NC. Where are you?

 

Nice, I'm only like 20mins away from ya up in Mooresville.

[Wildman]

Yes, your tail pipe is back a little too far, about 3-4 inches, and Yes, it should slope down so that the condensation does not collect at the bend. This can be correct at the muffler/tailpipe connection.

 

This is a tool that you can use when you need to cut a stock pipe to length -

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=37354

 

I think you can rent them at Advance :hmm:

 

That expands the pipe to slip over the other pipe, and then your clamp holds it together, or weld the two pieces together.

 

Another trick is to use this product where any cut ends or factory hangers are welded on to the pipe, kind of keeps the corrosion down.

[clarkerussell]

Yes, your tail pipe is back a little too far, about 3-4 inches, and Yes, it should slope down so that the condensation does not collect at the bend. This can be correct at the muffler/tailpipe connection.

 

This is a tool that you can use when you need to cut a stock pipe to length -

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=37354

 

I think you can rent them at Advance :hmm:

 

That expands the pipe to slip over the other pipe, and then your clamp holds it together, or weld the two pieces together.

 

Another trick is to use this product where any cut ends or factory hangers are welded on to the pipe, kind of keeps the corrosion down.

 

Thanks. The problem that I have is that the hangers are perfectly vertical right now. To get the pipe forward 4 more inches would require me to cut a few inches from the part that attaches to the muffler and then pull the pipe closer to the muffler. That would cause the hangers to be pulled forward, and would raise the tail pipe up as the mount would swing up a bit. It's like the tail pipe needs to have a few inches cut from the straight portion and then weld it back. What a fricking pain... I purchased it to fit, not as a starting point for a fab job.

[ratrapp]

thats why i just went to my favorite exhaust shop even though it's 60 miles away.i bought a catco converter for $90 and installed it myself and got a flowmaster for $65 and they charged $90 for a 2 1/2 inch pipe from the converter to muffler and 2 1/2 tailpipe.i always fix everything myself but for the price and quality it was worth it.