'88 MJ Restification (lots of pictures):

[JeffK]

Just read thru whole thing and went to go to next page only to see I was at the end :(

Great work man if my truck was half as clean as yours....well that'd be tops, just tops. :thumbsup:

 

Hey where did you get those switches you used to reverse the polarity on ur windows?

-mine are a locking kind and those are much cleaner, want.

 

 

 

Thanks, the switches came from OTRATTW with some very minor filing they pop into the factory holes.

 

www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=V8D1A60B-ANCAT-100

[JeffK]

I got the new radiator installed, but with the new radiator didn't have the mounting hole for the factory temp sensor like the old one. Locally no one carries an all metal radiator that has this mounting hole. The mounting hole is located...

 

 

There are a number of topics online about this, most recommend using a late model t-stat housing and a sending unit from an early 80's vette. The sensor set points are close, but not exactly right.

 

http://comancheclub....erature-sensor/

 

I wanted to be able to control the temp the fan came on, but i didn't want to run it off a toggle. A couple of weeks ago I was looking through the Summit Catalog and found this gauge...

 

 

 

everything I was looking for. Adjustable high and low set points etc. except $188.28 shipped was out of price range. Ebay to the rescue...

 

 

Slightly used and $85 shipped. I picked up an Auto Meter Cherokee dual gauge pod...

 

 

and a 3692 voltmeter. Mounted in the pod...

 

 

Just a few more wires to run...

 

 

Jeff

[RynoMJ]

Great find on the temp gauge, didn't even know something like that existed and the pod gauges look sweet!

[reson46]

I got the new radiator installed, but with the new radiator didn't have the mounting hole for the factory temp sensor like the old one. Locally no one carries an all metal radiator that has this mounting hole. The mounting hole is located...

 

That looks like a HO radiator. Only the Renix radiators include the temperature sensor mount. But, the Renix radiators also come as the old closed system. It looks like you are converting to the later open system.

 

Willy

[JeffK]

Still buttoning up some of the wiring in the engine compartment and I keep going back to this.

 

 

This is before I changed out the WJ booster and M/C, but the brake lines are the same. OK, but the lines stick out far enough the washer reservoir won't fit. So after twisting and bending, them I made it even worse (no pics of that).

 

I made a run to the pull-a-part and did some comparisons, and this is what I came up with.

 

 

'00 XJ proportioning valve, XJ proportioning valve lines, the XJ left front hard line and another ZJ proportioning valve.

 

 

The hard lines for the rear and RF can be re-bent to reach the XJ valve, then simply replace the LF line. No double or bubble flares, no custom lines and no adapters. After the install I then pulled the plunger and spring from the XJ valve...

 

 

...and replaced them with the ZJ stuff. This pic shows the difference between the two.

 

 

Using the parts I listed takes a lot of the headaches out of the dual diaphragm booster upgrade for the Renix. BTW Disregard the part about the ZJ valve if you are running rear drums.

 

[JeffK]

That looks like a HO radiator. Only the Renix radiators include the temperature sensor mount. But, the Renix radiators also come as the old closed system. It looks like you are converting to the later open system.

 

Willy

 

Right. OE open replacements used to have the bung for the temp sensor, but not much any more. My old leaking radiator...

 

[reson46]

Right. OE open replacements used to have the bung for the temp sensor, but not much any more. My old leaking radiator...

 

 

Interesting. Your old radiator appears to be for a HO with the open system, and it has the bung for the temperature sensor. I don't think I've seen that before.

 

Willy

[JeffK]

Reinstalled the washer tank. Had to be moved forward 1/2", but plenty of room between it and the brake lines.

 

[JeffK]

Spent the day pulling wires for the gauges and some other stuff.

 

 

While it's apart I'm swapping the Blaupunkt Kingston head unit out with the JVC KD-X80BT from my M3. Mess.

 

 

Ran the sending unit for the gauge, bushing for the t-stat housing was kind of hard to find.

 

 

Mini console.

 

 

One more for future reference.

 

[JeffK]

Worked on the wiring for the Auto Meter gauge. The gauge uses a negative trigger to turn on an accessory (in my case the fan) at a user set temp.

 

 

The easiest way I found to activate the fan is by simply applying 12+ to the #2 pin on the fan relay...

 

 

...but since the gauge uses a negative trigger, I used another relay wired to convert the negative signal to 12v+...

 

 

I dug through my electrical junk box and found an add on fuse box and a Bosch relay. I mounted these on the lower dash. Not the ideal place, but the holes in the fuse box lined up with a couple of factory holes and I mounted the relay on one of the factory studs.

 

 

I ran 2 wires into the engine bay and spliced them into the #2 pin's orange wire.

 

 

Then I wrapped them in some 3M rubber splicing tap (I love this stuff).

 

 

The power comes from one of the keyed power outlets in the factory fuse box. The yellow wires are for the Auto Meter gauge and the black wire is for an override switch.

 

 

Got a box from OTRATTW few days ago, can't say enough good things about these folks.

 

 

Switches.

 

 

Fan switch and an extra switch mounted. I'm moving the switches for the lights.

 

 

So now the fan will turn on with the A/C, when the gauge reaches the temp I set or with the override switch.

 

Jeff

[88MJNC]

OK i have looked over your build and i have drooled at every pic. I own 88 4x4 4.0 SB MJ for little over a year i have taken it two jeep dealers one in Raleigh and one in Greenville N.C. and have spent well over $3,000 only to go to the dealer and have to get it to crank myself. So i have been using starter fluid to crank my MJ for bout 8 mths using the spray off and on every other day. I was wondering if you would mind looking over mine and seeing if you could figure out why it will not start unless starter fluid is added. I live in Greenville N.C. and work in Raleigh any help would be great everyone has said sell the truck i just can't part with it even though it has tried me for sometime.

Thanks and great build.

[JeffK]

OK i have looked over your build and i have drooled at every pic. I own 88 4x4 4.0 SB MJ for little over a year i have taken it two jeep dealers one in Raleigh and one in Greenville N.C. and have spent well over $3,000 only to go to the dealer and have to get it to crank myself. So i have been using starter fluid to crank my MJ for bout 8 mths using the spray off and on every other day. I was wondering if you would mind looking over mine and seeing if you could figure out why it will not start unless starter fluid is added. I live in Greenville N.C. and work in Raleigh any help would be great everyone has said sell the truck i just can't part with it even though it has tried me for sometime.

Thanks and great build.

 

I sent you a message.

[JeffK]

Finished up the add on fuse box for the gauges and the fan controls.

 

 

Power for the gauges and the 2 fan circuits.

 

 

Left top fan/gauge bottom temp gauge. Right top fan override bottom volt gauge.

 

 

Since I purchased a roll/light bar I'm now in need of a spot for 3 switches instead of 2. The old spot now houses the switch for the fan and an extra for later add on.

 

 

I decided to move them to the shifter console.

 

 

I removed the console and cut/sanded the bottom out of the coin tray.

 

 

I picked up a Carling switch plate from a boat supply company. Fits the opening fairly well.

 

 

Dry fitting the switches.

 

 

Screwed it down with some stainless buttonheads.

 

 

Done.

 

 

Run the wires,

 

 

Made the connections.

 

 

With the bottom of the coin tray cut out the switches fit the opening near perfect.

 

 

Installed.

 

 

Another view.

 

 

One more.

 

 

The USB outlet (left) and 12V charger.

 

 

Pulled the wires for gauges.

 

 

Running the wire for the Bluetooth mic, oh yeah duct tap.

 

 

Trim reinstalled with pod.

 

 

Bluetooth mic location.

 

 

Gauges installed.

 

 

Another shot.

 

 

Finishing the wire connections.

 

 

Closer.

 

 

Finished.

 

 

Buttoning it up.

 

 

:cheers2: Jeff

[relyt120]

Reinstalled the washer tank. Had to be moved forward 1/2", but plenty of room between it and the brake lines.

 

 

 

Did you consider installing a late model washer fluid bottle in the fender like Hornbrod did?

I tackled it myself today and it wasn't a nightmare.

[JeffK]

Did you consider installing a late model washer fluid bottle in the fender like Hornbrod did?

I tackled it myself today and it wasn't a nightmare.

 

I did, and I actually have one. I had some problems with leaks on my last XJ a 2000, and the repair was a pain. Where it's at now any issues will be a simple enough to repair

[relyt120]

Good point, I was concerned with that as well but want to put an aux fuse box next to the brake booster. BTW your wiring is soooooo clean and awesome, what kind of soldering iron do you use?

[JeffK]

Good point, I was concerned with that as well but want to put an aux fuse box next to the brake booster. BTW your wiring is soooooo clean and awesome, what kind of soldering iron do you use?

 

I like the Weller brand. The cheap ones don't get hot enough.

[Automan2164]

I can't get enough of this truck.

 

Rob :cheers:

[JeffK]

A little distraction this week. Eric Church and company.

 

Kip Moore

 

 

Justin Moore

 

 

Eric Church

 

 

 

 

 

Picked up some bling for the MJ today (bling in my world)

 

 

Mopar part number 82204675. Fitment is pretty good. looks a little odd without the gas pedal installed.

 

 

At least they say Jeep.

 

 

Back to work tomorrow am, enjoy the rest of your weekend folks.

 

:cheers2: Jeff

[Guest]

This truck is such a stunning piece of work. :bowdown: I'm absolutely awed every time I read one of your updates, Jeff. :cheers:

[92tanMJ]

I love how you did the interior swap with an xj like people with the 98+ but you did it with the same model years, looks great dude!

[JeffK]

This truck is such a stunning piece of work. :bowdown: I'm absolutely awed every time I read one of your updates, Jeff. :cheers:

 

I appreciate it. I finally got myself right, so I'm back at it.

 

I love how you did the interior swap with an xj like people with the 98+ but you did it with the same model years, looks great dude!

 

Thanks, It's from a '90 or '91 limited. I like the old school look of it.

[JeffK]

Made the rounds at the local Pull a Parts today. No great finds, but I did find a replacement clock for my old cracked one.

 

 

I had planned on replacing the broken #74 bulb socket for the heater controls, but I broke the extra socket I had. I did play around with the temp gauge and temporarily put the high set point at 210.

 

[JeffK]

Been finishing up a bunch of small stuff. The most annoying was the #74 bulb holder in the heater controls which refused to stay in. A closer look shows a broken ear on the holder.

 

 

Turns out the one I grabbed at the yard was broken too. Ebay to the rescue though. 10 holders for $6 shipped.

 

[JeffK]

Finally back to it after the holidays. Spent today replacing missing bolts etc. Did want to post up a pic of the new daily driver I picked up on 1/3...