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'88 MJ Restification (lots of pictures):


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Heading to the Pull A Part tomorrow hopefully find more bits I need. I did score an unbroken vacuum ball  on the last trip. Cherokee pickins are getting slim.

 

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Rainy weekend put a damper on working on the MJ. I did do a side project to stay busy. When cleaning up the engine bay I finally tossed my cracked washer fluid tank and began the hunt for a replacement. I kept running up on stuff that was anywhere from $35 or more.

 

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I decided I'd find something else,and I found this.

 

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Smaller than stock put plenty for me. The hole in the bottom is directly below the cap opening so after opening the hole up from 11mm to 3/4" with a step bit I test fitted the pump.

 

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The polished aluminum was a little much, so I scuffed it down and applied a coat of bare metal primer.

 

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Then a coat of matte black textured paint.

 

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This is with the cap on and right before I reinstalled the pump. When I reinstall the tank I'll probably move it closer to the radiator and further away from the master cylinder/proportioning valve.

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I've been going through my multi years of clutter in our basement and sorting out spare parts and just plain getting rid of stuff. Besides 10+ shifter boots. I found some spare black steering wheels, I knew I had an extra just not several. This one came out of the Limited XJ I robbed some of my interior out of. Looks like it spent most of it's life wrapped in one of those Kmart steering wheel covers. I haven't seen too many of this style wheel in black.

 

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I had a couple of the rubber wheels as well, most of the one's I've seen are worn smooth. Including the old CJ wheel currently in my MJ. Other than the dirt it's a pretty nice steering wheel.

 

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My plans this week were to move the MJ closer to the basement garage door. I went out and put my new keys in the ignition switch and oh yeah, they don't work. Found the old key and it don't work either. I decided I'd just buy a new ignition lock and be done with it. New part no more issues and Jeep logo keys to satisfy my OCD. 

 

Mopar discontinued the ignition lock cylinder for the Renix year stuff in 2021. They're still available on Amazon and Ebay, the part number is 55026014. They run about $90 and up. I really didn't want to spend that on a key cylinder right now or ever for that matter. So before I ordered it I stopped by the locksmith with a ignition cylinder I found in one of my parts buckets.

 

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Behold the elusive 'J' ignition lock cylinder. Apparently this is the old key cylinder from my original non tilt steering column that I forgot was even in existence.

 

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For the modest sum of $4.28 my OCD dreams of having Jeep logo keys can now be realized.

 

 

 

 

 

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On 6/3/2023 at 9:53 PM, Pete M said:

love it!  :D 

 

Thanks Pete. Kinda quiet around here since I was last here. Looks like a lot of our old forum friends have moved on. Then again I started this build 14 years ago.

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1 hour ago, fiatslug87 said:

14 years isn’t that long ago.:))

 

I guess not. Bonus for taking so long, my truck is now considered an antique in my state and is no longer required to have annual inspections. Nice collection BTW

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searched for a coolant reserve that would fit in the spot I had in mind and every thing was either too small or too big, so I test fit my new washer tank and decided to buy another one. I did modify the mounting tabs

 

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Ready for paint

 

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I mounted the fitting. Not really the way I wanted to mount it but the nut is wider than the tank neck.

 

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and I drilled a 1/16 hole in the center of the fill cap to vent.

 

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Installed the ignition key cylinder today. Not one of my favorite things to do.

 

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Like most old cars there's always something missing or broken when you take it apart. Bonus points if you spot the missing part.

 

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And the broken part, the Turn Signal Cancelling Cam. Fortunately this is an item Crown reproduces. Part number 4487816 for tilt columns.

 

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I got my steering column back together, and now have 2 sets of Jeep logo keys (also have 2 generic sets for the gun safe).

 

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Mounted my coolant/windshield washer tanks.

 

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...those extra holes AMC and I made are going to drive me crazy.

 

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Also, got this from FedEx today. An adapter for Renix to use most aftermarket HO air intakes. Opening is larger than most aftermarket intakes, buy a lot of companies are catching on. Thor offers their kit with a 3" to 3" elbow for use with the Renix with an adapter.

 

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My wife spends the day before Father's day with her Dad, so I  pent Sat grinding down some the welds and smoothing out my new air filter adapter. I then painted it when high temp engine paint and baked it in my wife's brand new Samsung stove for about an hour and a half. Stunk up her new kitchen and the whole house. Turned out pretty slick though. 

 

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Happy fathers to you dads out there. We spent the weekend with our boys and I waited on delayed parts. Late this afternoon we had a random thunderstorm blow through and when my wife and I got home there was a 6 inch diameter and at least 15 foot long tree branch in front of and on the hood of the truck. Ugh. I pulled it out of the basement early this spring and all I could think was after 12+ years I finally pulled it out of the basement and this. drug it off the truck..

 

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And after unpuckering myself I pulled the cover off and found that the branch had, for the most part, completely missed the truck (though barely). It's time to get it out of the back yard. Check out the branch size compared to my croc.

 

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I've been chasing a brake issue since my original WJ booster went bad. Brake pedal was too high, front and rear brakes dragging etc. The original WJ booster compared to the stock booster...

 

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and the brake lines...

 

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My intentions were to replace the WJ booster/master cylinder with a 95-96 XJ unit and call it a day. I bought a reman booster and new master from the AZ, but after the install my brake issues started. XJ installed...

 

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Fast forward to '23, Before I dig too far into the truck I want to sort the brake problems out. My plan was simple, sort out the issues with booster/master cylinder/brakes or go back to the stock booster setup. I read a few posts online describing install, parts, problems etc. and I found a post where the author had similar issues to mine. So I checked back through my notes and posts then pulled the currently installed booster. A little measuring and I found my issue. When I replaced the WJ stuff instead of getting a 95-96 booster/master cylinder, I somehow ended up with a 97+ booster and a 95-96 master cylinder. How, I don't know, but the 97+ booster has a longer actuator rod than the 95-96, the WJ and the stock booster. The rod being to long made the pedal way too high and partially engaged the brakes making them seem to drag.

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Ordered the needed replacement parts from Rock Auto and Summit Racing last week and they came in yesterday. RA's new booster is about $50 cheaper the Auto Zone's reman. AZ's reman only comes with a check valve and a lovely sandblasted finish. In comparison the cheaper booster from RA which is amazing. All new hardware, including spacer and a nice shiny black paint job.

 

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Auto Zone's...

 

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It's supposed to rain for the rest of the week, so I put the pieces together so I could make some hard lines for the m/c. I also bought Summit's Wilwood copy adjustable proportioning valve and the mounting bracket.

 

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1 hour ago, JeffK said:

 I also bought Summit's Wilwood copy adjustable proportioning valve and the mounting bracket.

 

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Do you have a link to that cloned wilwood part?

Also, make sure to check your prop valve, I went through 3 wilwood prop valves until I was satisfied with using it on my comanche. The first one had a sizeable burr on one of the threaded ports. The second was a bit better, but the 3rd looked the best.

No one pays for quality control engineers anymore. :doh:

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16 hours ago, Salvagedcircuit said:

 

Do you have a link to that cloned wilwood part?

Also, make sure to check your prop valve, I went through 3 wilwood prop valves until I was satisfied with using it on my comanche. The first one had a sizeable burr on one of the threaded ports. The second was a bit better, but the 3rd looked the best.

No one pays for quality control engineers anymore. :doh:

 

This is it.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3906

 

It bolts right up to the Wilwood 250-14059 bracket. There were some reviews that referred to issues with the threads as well.  I'm going to use the fittings they provide and all of them thread in without issue.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been on parts hold for a few days, just been getting the bits together to finish my brakes.

Guy on the FB page hooked me up with the part numbers I needed to install the PV.

 

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They're a little short to use with the Wilwood bracket, but workable. I decided to look the rest of the lines over. The rear and right front line had quite a bit of rust so to avoid future issues I decided replace all the hard lines as well.

 

Since I was replacing all the lines I decided to move the location of the PV. I ordered a different bracket, I didn't realize it would be as big as it was. The bracket I ordered.

 

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Mounted it was nearly 2 inches longer than the master cylinder. So I cut it down.

 

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I also sanded it down and plan on painting it my favorite VHT low gloss black. Mocked up. 

 

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Got most of what I need to do the lines in. Painted the PV bracket and bent and flared some lines for the master cylinder to the PV.

 

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Decided to go with Nicopp on the MC. Too easy to work with.

 

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Not OEM, but the best looking lines I ever made.

 

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