SOA Lift

[Deleted user]

Just wondering but with all the guys on here that have done this mod why is there no DIY thread?? just thought id throw it out there.. Never done one thats why i was looking for some tips/advice...

[Pete M]

I'm not sure why it hasn't made it to the DIY yet. Guys? :dunno:

If it ever does, it'll probably look something like this (but with pictures):

 

SOA short version:

-weld new perches on top of MJ axle directly above and parallel to the old perches.

-Use new U-bolts to reassemble

-Use a 95 Dakota flexy brake line (longer than stock)

-figure out what to do about shock mounts (there are a few different options here)

-your driveshaft will now be an inch or so short. Some guys will run it like this, others will have the old shaft re-tubed, a longer shaft shortened, or a brand new shaft made up. If the truck is a 4.0/auto, you can use a 4.0/stick rear driveshaft which will be 1inch longer

-Change your driveshaft U-joints. U-joints do not like their operating angles changes and could cause vibrations

 

Longer version:

-all of the above plus:

-find a better axle than the Dana 35 to survive the bigger tires

-find better gearing than stock to accommodate the bigger tires (with matching gearing up front)

-carefully disassemble and examine your leafs to make sure they are in good shape.

-Many of us add in an extra main leaf under the current main to better support it and help fight spring wrap (other vehicles can donate that leaf)

 

Anything I miss?

[Geonovast]

-weld new perches on top of MJ axle directly above and parallel to the old perches.

 

Wouldn't doing that screw up pinion angle pretty bad?

[Pete M]

In theory the rear U-joint angle should change the same amount as the front U-joint angle and so they would remain the same relative to each other (which is the important thing for vibration cancellation).

I added a couple things to the list.

[johnnyc]

In theory the rear U-joint angle should change the same amount as the front U-joint angle and so they would remain the same relative to each other (which is the important thing for vibration cancellation).

I added a couple things to the list.

 

Yes, in theory. ;) The best way is to cut the old perches off. Put the axle under the Jeep and set the pinion angle where it should be. Tack the perches in place. Then remove the axle to finish welding.

[mjeff87]

meh...I set my new perches parallel to the old SUA ones, works fine. Unless you're planning to run an SYE with a DC rear shaft, pinion angle in relation to the TC output remains the same.....the angles increase, but in proportion to each other (and you need a longer driveshaft)

 

Jeff

[cracker]

In theory the rear U-joint angle should change the same amount as the front U-joint angle and so they would remain the same relative to each other (which is the important thing for vibration cancellation).

I added a couple things to the list.

 

Yes, in theory. ;) The best way is to cut the old perches off. Put the axle under the Jeep and set the pinion angle where it should be. Tack the perches in place. Then remove the axle to finish welding.

 

That would be the best. I lifted the crap out of the chassis and welded it on the ground with my mig welder after I tacked them in. I did the shock mounts like that as well.

[88mjmanche]

do you have a dana 35 :dunno: if you do i have a dana 35 spring over conver. kit boght used it is completey bolt on noooooo welding no guessing nothing. needs new bolts but is still in good shape. i got a dana 44 so it no fit no more 8) . yea 90$ shipped

[Deleted user]

do you have a dana 35 :dunno: if you do i have a dana 35 spring over conver. kit boght used it is completey bolt on noooooo welding no guessing nothing. needs new bolts but is still in good shape. i got a dana 44 so it no fit no more 8) . yea 90$ shipped

 

 

whered you get that from?

[Geonovast]

do you have a dana 35 :dunno: if you do i have a dana 35 spring over conver. kit boght used it is completey bolt on noooooo welding no guessing nothing. needs new bolts but is still in good shape. i got a dana 44 so it no fit no more 8) . yea 90$ shipped

 

 

whered you get that from?

 

Motion Offroad sells them.

[Pete M]

Waste of money in my humble opinion. Get some of the beefy perches from Mopar for $15 and find someone local to burn them on for beer. :D

[Deleted user]

Waste of money in my humble opinion. Get some of the beefy perches from Mopar for $15 and find someone local to burn them on for beer. :D

 

then id have to drop the axle and trust someone elses welds, foind this website http://rocky-road.com/comanche.html this kit comes with the full ift kit as well...

 

just need to get 33s on her to take in the soft stuff no wheeling just gettin through some mud while hunting..

[Pete M]

Won't you have to drop the axle anyways? :hmm: And it's gotta be the easiest welding in the world. Both metals are nice and thick and the welds themselves are not under tremendous stress. I don't remember ever hearing of perch welds failing. I guess it might have happened. Heck, some of us have installed everything sans welding, tightened it all up nice and tight, and then drove slowly to a local shop without incident. Brake shops are probably the most common place to get random welding done. Don't fear the welding, it's easy and straightforward. :thumbsup:

 

And that rocky road "kit" is only half a kit. Longer control arms are incredibly important at that height.

 

Don't go cheap on a lift kit just because you think the better kits are for "hardcore" guys. You do get something for your money with ride quality and product quality. :thumbsup:

[Deleted user]

yeah i hear ya pete. I'm just looking for the cheapest/easiest way to get a little more clearance and to stuff some 33s. The ride isnt all that important as most of this trucks duty will be idleing up and down orange grove rows, and eight mile roundtrip to and from. My other concern is how to make the rear suspension stiffer for the flat bed I'm gonna eventually put on it

[Pete M]

Why 33s? You only get 1" more ground clearance than 31s, and 31s are soooo much easier on the wallet and the truck. :thumbsup: 6" of lift and 33s can make for a bed that's difficult to access (not entirely certain how you intend to make use of it).

 

How about a 3" lift, 31s, and go with the metric tonne leafpacks from Hellcreek? Look for used XJ/MJ parts for the front to save a few bucks. At a minimum you'll need coils and a track bar. You can bed the front brake hard lines (if they are in good shape) to get a bit more length, just remove the sway bar if you don't really have a need for it, and if you're really cheap, you can technically reuse your stock lower control arms. I don't condone it though, as lifting the truck with stock arms will pull the tire backwards in the wheel well as well as reduce your caster (which can cause the truck to wander on the road). Cut back a bit on your build plans and put your money into leafpacks that will carry your loads. :thumbsup:

[Deleted user]

Why 33s? You only get 1" more ground clearance than 31s, and 31s are soooo much easier on the wallet and the truck. :thumbsup: 6" of lift and 33s can make for a bed that's difficult to access (not entirely certain how you intend to make use of it).:

 

Eventually I'm gonna do a flat bed. Since I already have to build new dog box as well as hog box It would do me more good to utilize all the bed space wheel wells included. The truck sits on 31s now and just seems to small and not a whole lot of ground clearange under the front chunk which will cause a problem for its application. Id love to put 36-37s on it but that would just be to impractical and it wouldnt hold up. everything ive read on the net says the dana 35 is rated to either a 33 or 35 (can't remember) which is why i want 33s as well as them being wider for the mud. the flat bed being at my waist line would be ideal, that way if i need to work on the dogs or get somethin out of the box i don't have to break my back bendin over.

[Deleted user]

oh yeah and what does SANS mean?

[Pete M]

"without"

 

And the Dana 35 is rated for 225s.

[mvusse]

I don't know of other people, but in my case lifting the front to match SOA, and running 33x12.50s, while looking nice, has opened up a *bunch* of cans of worms (front locker may also be a contributing factor). Every inherent strength limitations of the unibody "frame" and other weak points are making themselves known. I'm so busy fixing/improving those problems that I'm still running the D35 even though I have had a 8.25 sitting in my drive way for going on 2 months now. A set of disc brakes to go on it are about 2 feet away from it in a pile. Just no time to work on the axle.

[BJA814]

Anybody found a solution for longer E-brake cables? This always seems to be overlooked.

 

Mine are getting pretty close to being limiting straps :no:

[Pete M]

Anybody found a solution for longer E-brake cables? This always seems to be overlooked.

 

Mine are getting pretty close to being limiting straps :no:

 

 

An interesting query. :hmm: I've never given it thought since my Michigan trucks don't have them anymore (rusted away years ago) and since there are no inspections here and my trucks are sticks, I've got zero interest in splicing them back in (although I have contemplated an XJ brake handle install in my 88, just for the heck of it).

[johnnyc]

Anybody found a solution for longer E-brake cables? This always seems to be overlooked.

 

Mine are getting pretty close to being limiting straps :no:

 

For drum brakes - two passenger side YJ cables

For disc brakes - two KJ cables

[BJA814]

I'll have to check my part XJ to see if the E-brake cable is a different length...doubt it will be longer, but who knows.

 

Also, I skipped the Dakota rear brake hose. I had enough room in the hard line to move the "hard to soft bracket" down and mount it on the Prop Valve bracket. Seems to have plenty of room now.

[Pete M]

I'll have to check my part XJ to see if the E-brake cable is a different length...doubt it will be longer, but who knows.

 

Seeing as MJs have a foot more wheelbase, I've got my doubts. :D But I always hate to assume anything when it comes to Jeeps. :doh:

[MrSimon]

Just my $.02 regarding SOA lifts.

 

I just finished mine a few weeks ago. I also swapped in an 8.25 at the same time. I'd definately recommend buying some longer than stock spring perches (check out Mountain Offroad) and having them welded on. I also bought some new shock tabs and had them welded on so that they don't hang down below the axle like stock ones. Now everything is up and out of the way - I love it.

 

To set the pinion angle, we set the axle on a floor jack, rolled it under the truck (sitting on jack stands), jacked the axle up under the truck with all the hardware set in place, rotated the axle with a bottle jack under the yoke until the pinion looked right, tacked it in place, and pulled it out to weld it all up. It was very easy.

 

I had a friend do the welding and it was very straight forward for him. 30 minutes of welding and he did both perches and both shock mount tabs. I paid him $40.

 

I'm running 31s with the lift and I think it looks great. 33s would fit nicely (maybe need to trim a bit), but the 31s are new so I don't plan to upgrade for a while.

 

I'm a huge SOA believer. Its a cheap, easy, and effective way to get enough lift for 33s AND eliminate all the stuff hanging down below the axle tubes.