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Solid cooling system upgrades?


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What are some good upgrades to get the old cooling system working good on our 88 MJ. It seems we are always battling overheating issues, I get all the air bled out and it works for a while, then I can't find a pressure bottle that has a cap that actually stays on and seals. So I'm tired of the closed system. I was looking online and found some good deals on all metal HD 3 core, open system, from radiatorbarn.com for $166 shipped. They also have the same HD all metal 2 core for $156 shipped. What else should I look at when converting to the open system? A new 195 degree thermostat is on the list, I hear I should find a "balanced" one. I've seen them on summits web site for about $15. I'm thinking I might also pop off the water pump and see what that looks like, any recomendations on a replacement? I have already replaced the fan clutch so that is all good. I don't think my elec fan works anymore, it used to come on only when the A/C or defrost was on, now nothing. I'd like to get the elec fan wired to come on at a certain temp (stock should come on at 210?) Any good writeups on doing that or maybe putting it on a switch? Is the stock elec fan any good?

 

Thanks

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I had some overheating problems in my first 88 XJ, so I wired the fan directly to a switch, powered it through the acc(so I couldn't accidentally leave it run with the truck off) spot on the fusebox, and just left it on most of the time.

 

Your radiator may just be dead, not necessarily a problem with it being a closed system.

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This is the best money I've spent on my cooling system. It is an aluminum overflow tank to replace the stock one. It has a vented cap so you need to run an aux bottle. Very simple installation in the stock location, and then you just need to run an aux bottle that you can get at any auto parts store. I know that some other peeps on this forum are running them too (I think chico is).

http://www.macsradiator.com/replacmentjeepradiatorfilltanks.aspx

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I am running a NON thermal fan clucth for a 77 Camaro with 4.1, "open" style 2 core Aluminumn rad., 4 cyl overflow bottle, late model "s" blade E-fan and stock type T-stat. I did drill a hole about an 1/8th" in the T-stat to allow a constant "airbleed". Just make sure that the hole is at the top when you install the T-stat. Oh, and the factory fan shroud helps ALOT more than you think. The E fan is also on a relay and switch. No overheat issues yet, and we have already passed 85* with humidity past 80% ( high humidity affects cooling eff. with regard to how well heat can be passed: high humidity air is generally heat soaked allready, and cannot absorb much more heat, hence, lowered efficency. A good fan setup will help this to a good degree. Good shrouding helps to draw the air cross the rad., and also helps to speed up the air flow, again helping it draw off the heat.)

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This is the best money I've spent on my cooling system. It is an aluminum overflow tank to replace the stock one. It has a vented cap so you need to run an aux bottle. Very simple installation in the stock location, and then you just need to run an aux bottle that you can get at any auto parts store. I know that some other peeps on this forum are running them too (I think chico is).

http://www.macsradiator.com/replacmentjeepradiatorfilltanks.aspx

 

In the picture, are those two nipples read to accept the rubber hose to connect to the overflow bottle? I suppose this essentially converts the system to open, right?

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It converts it to an open system. There is both an bottom and a side nipple that the stock hoses attach to. and then there is one on the filler neck by the radiator cap. when the pressure reaches 15 psi. and the vent on the cap opens it allows overflow coolant to either flow in or out through that nipple. You run the overflow bottle to that top hose and make sure that the overflow bottle is vented. I will take a picture of my setup when I get home tonight. :cheers:

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yea i got a 160 degrees therostat with a manual backup fan and it stays nice and cool. cost was about 15 $ for the therostat ,wire,and switch for the fan image_209027.gif

 

You don't want it to stay too cold. Operating temp for these motors is around 200-210. If it stays too cold, especially if you have a Renix system, it'll kill you mileage.

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yea i got a 160 degrees therostat with a manual backup fan and it stays nice and cool. cost was about 15 $ for the therostat ,wire,and switch for the fan image_209027.gif

 

You don't want it to stay too cold. Operating temp for these motors is around 200-210. If it stays too cold, especially if you have a Renix system, it'll kill you mileage.

If it runs too cold will it start running in closed loop? That's the only way I can think of to kill MPG.

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yea i got a 160 degrees therostat with a manual backup fan and it stays nice and cool. cost was about 15 $ for the therostat ,wire,and switch for the fan image_209027.gif

 

SPOBI!!!!!!!! :fs1:

 

Feel free not to recommend a solution unless you know what you are talking about. :no:

 

Willy

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yea i got a 160 degrees therostat with a manual backup fan and it stays nice and cool. cost was about 15 $ for the therostat ,wire,and switch for the fan image_209027.gif

 

You don't want it to stay too cold. Operating temp for these motors is around 200-210. If it stays too cold, especially if you have a Renix system, it'll kill you mileage.

If it runs too cold will it start running in closed loop? That's the only way I can think of to kill MPG.

 

Yes. My mileage in the MJ is about 15, and I'm thinking there is no t-stat.

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While I don't have any overheating, I do notice the temps climbing on a hot day when above 65MPH. OR, hot days on the trail crawling along. I'm not so certain that the fact temp gauge is not accurate. BUT, its still makes me uneasy when I see the temps climbing. I wired up a A/C fan and this helps for sure. You can SEE the gauge drop with in a couple minutes of turning it on. IIRC I have a 195 degree T-stat, and a new 3 core radiator. I want to throw in a 180 stat, but haven't done it as yet.

 

I have read about the additives and ICE fluid that can be used in extreme applications. SO..Any one tried this "WATER WETTER"? http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp

 

 

CW

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While I don't have any overheating, I do notice the temps climbing on a hot day when above 65MPH. OR, hot days on the trail crawling along. I'm not so certain that the fact temp gauge is not accurate. BUT, its still makes me uneasy when I see the temps climbing. I wired up a A/C fan and this helps for sure. You can SEE the gauge drop with in a couple minutes of turning it on. IIRC I have a 195 degree T-stat, and a new 3 core radiator. I want to throw in a 180 stat, but haven't done it as yet.

 

I have read about the additives and ICE fluid that can be used in extreme applications. SO..Any one tried this "WATER WETTER"? http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp

 

 

CW

 

I know alot of people swear by redline. Not sure exactly how it works, the only way I can think it would help is if it change the viscosity(the surface tension of the water)

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Oh, how about an electric fan control relay kit? I'm getting rid of the A/C pump and cleaning up the engine compartment a bit and with the newer radiator I don't have the coolant temp sensor anymore to run the elec fan and I don't want the girl friend to have to remember to flip on a switch to turn the fan on. I'm thinking 91+ thermostat housing with the sensor bung in it, and a relay kit. I found this kit on ebay; http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0207066836 seems pretty good, fan on at 210 off at 195, just about right from what i've seen.

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yea but when you wheel it more then drive it i think that cooler is better

 

What kind of idiot logic is that? When you're wheeling your prefer to restrain your engine so that it doesn't perform its best?

 

When you are wheeling a colder thermostat is worthless. Once it opens it does nothing to keep the engine cool. If your cooling system is so bad that only a 160 degree thermostat keeps it from overheating, those temperatures will continue to climb as you sit on the trail. :nuts:

 

Fix the problem. Do not install a stupid colder thermostat. :shake:

 

Willy

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While I don't have any overheating, I do notice the temps climbing on a hot day when above 65MPH. OR, hot days on the trail crawling along. I'm not so certain that the fact temp gauge is not accurate. BUT, its still makes me uneasy when I see the temps climbing. I wired up a A/C fan and this helps for sure. You can SEE the gauge drop with in a couple minutes of turning it on. IIRC I have a 195 degree T-stat, and a new 3 core radiator. I want to throw in a 180 stat, but haven't done it as yet.

 

I have read about the additives and ICE fluid that can be used in extreme applications. SO..Any one tried this "WATER WETTER"? http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp

 

 

CW

 

I know a lot of people swear by red-line. Not sure exactly how it works, the only way I can think it would help is if it change the viscosity(the surface tension of the water)

 

Well, I added it to my rad yesterday. Time will tell, I'll post back and let everyone know if there is any differences.

I also picked up the 180 T-stat to throw in. But I'll wait a week or two and see if this "juice" made any differences.

 

CW

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[quote name="

 

Well' date=' I added it to my rad yesterday. Time will tell, I'll post back and let everyone know if there is any differences.

I also picked up the 180 T-stat to throw in. But I'll wait a week or two and see if this "juice" made any differences.

 

CW[/quote]

 

see people do want the cooler thermostat

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SO..Any one tried this "WATER WETTER"? http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp

 

 

CW

I used it in all my road course track cars and swear by it. I'm a HUGE Redline fan.

 

Water Wetter is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. The bad thing about having hot spots in your cylinder head (read combustion chamber) is that they can promote pre-ignition - definitely a bad thing. An additional benefit of using Water Wetter (in conjunction with 100% water) in you cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. Thus a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from you engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages. Water Wetter does NOT increase the boiling point of water. Standard automotive coolant does increase the boiling point of the mixture above that of 100% water. But remember that if your cooling system is operating properly, it should never get hot enough to boil (I mean BOIL, not just localized boiling like in your pressure bottle on the Renix era 4.0L's). Raising the boiling point of the coolant in normal applications is primarily a safety measure, so that if the cooling system is over stressed (climbing a hill on a hot day while on the trails), it will not boil over. On performance cars the primary duty of the cooling system is to keep the engine in its optimum temperature range. This is best accomplished with 100% water, because its high heat capacity makes it very efficient at transferring heat.

 

I just recently added it to the trail rigs but have not been out in them on the trails yet with the Water Wetter in it yet to give results from that. We'll see if running 100% water in addition to all the other cooling system mods I've done helps or hinders on the trails...

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Well, I added it to my rad yesterday. Time will tell, I'll post back and let everyone know if there is any differences.

I also picked up the 180 T-stat to throw in. But I'll wait a week or two and see if this "juice" made any differences.

 

CW

 

see people do want the cooler thermostat

 

 

Doesn't mean its the right thing to do.

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so what then should i toss the 160 and buy the 180 or put my 200 back in and get some of the wather wetter stuff :dunno:

 

Isn't the OEM t-stat a 195F?

 

Toss the 165, install OEM spec.

Make sure your electric fan is working.

Make sure your clutch fan is in good condition.

Make sure the coolant is in good condition.

Make sure your closed system is holding pressure.

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so what then should i toss the 160 and buy the 180 or put my 200 back in and get some of the wather wetter stuff :dunno:

 

Isn't the OEM t-stat a 195F?

 

Toss the 165, install OEM spec.

Make sure your electric fan is working.

Make sure your clutch fan is in good condition.

Make sure the coolant is in good condition.

Make sure your closed system is holding pressure.

 

all of the system works but i don't know if the coolent is good or what because it would just heat up baddd :dunno:

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